FEATURES

Fish in a tin-roofed shack

Fried red tilapia with sweet and sour sauce.

An uncomfortable three-hour drive proves worth the while for CASEY NG when he tucks into fish so fresh it had been swimming in a nearby pond just a while ago.

Steamed patin hitam with soya sauce.

Rustic countryside eatery.

WE are on our way to Mahang, driving along a dirt route through some oil palms. “We are almost there,” says our friend, who is at the wheel. “Just a few more bumps.”

I hope so. I am beginning to feel the churning effects of the bumpy ride. I have some of the maddest and strangest friends who would scour far away places for the sake of good food.

When they first mentioned this eatery tucked away near Kulim in Kedah, I wasn’t impressed. Firstly, no matter how good the food is, I’m not the type to take a three-hour drive just to expand my culinary horizon – mind you, it’s a long distance from Ipoh to Kulim.

Secondly, I am told that patin fish is the specialty of Restoran Kolam Ikan, which is where we’re headed. One of the most common fish found in this country, patin is not exactly on the gourmet food list and I find it hard to drum up too much excitement.

Still, I let myself be persuaded to make the trip. More bumps and a few potholes later, a tin-roofed shack greets us.

Inside, the scene is bustling. Above the noise from the customers, we could hear shouts for patin, jelawat, lampam, haruan, tilapia, baung… loud and clear as orders are being given and taken, and yelled out to the kitchen.

Meanwhile, a steady stream of dishes are being brought out and served.

Any Way You Like It

Inside the eatery, the air is hot and stuffy but no one seems to be complaining as they patiently wait for their orders to arrive.

Freshwater fish is the main draw at Restoran Kolam Ikan and near the eatery are ponds where the different types of fishes are bred. The fish is sold by weight and is steamed, fried, curried or grilled according to customer preferences.

According to the owner, fish bred in the ponds near the shack taste better than those caught elsewhere because the farm is fed with fresh running water from the nearby river.

This means they grow in well-oxygenated water, which explains the exceptional “clean” flavour of the meat.

Having come this far for a taste of the food, we order everything on the menu.

Eventually, the dishes arrive and everyone digs in. We are blown away by the delicate sweetness of the fish and the cook’s skill in making sure nothing is over-cooked. It’s one of those rare eating moments when words fail me.

How To Get There

Getting there is an adventure in itself but it’s well worth the effort. First, find your way to Kulim Hospital and then head towards Taman Mutiara and Mahang. Take a right turn after the Petronas station and drive for about 1km. Ask locals for directions to Restoran Kolam Ikan.

It’s open from 11.30am to 6pm daily and closes on Mondays. Call Ah Yew 013-437 9606.

Pictures by ANDREW NG

For more stories on the various delicacies which can be found throughout the country, check out the Gourmet Trail featured on the Travel site.

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