BAKE: Sanguine, fleeting flavours

2009/10/23

JULIE SONG

Here are a few recipes using blood orange, an exotic fruit with a distinct flavour and in crimson hues. JULIE SONG writes.

MORO, Tarocco and Sanguinello. These are names that are seldom heard of but they do exist. They are actually varieties of blood oranges that one hardly sees even in the best grocers in Malaysia. From orange to reddish-crimson shades, you can smell its tantalising aroma through its slightly thinner skin. It’s usually seedless with red-tinged flesh and looks stunning with its crimson hues.

These come from the additional pigmentation — anthocyanin — which can be found in red apples as well as in red and purple flowers.

When slicing the fruit, the red juices that ooze out make a tasty, healthy dressing for salads. Although these oranges are more expensive and not easily available in Malaysia, but when it’s in season in Australia, my restaurant Indulgence in Ipoh will serve them in a variety of savoury and sweet recipes. I always have a hard time deciding whether to eat it as it is or to create a dish with it. With its short fruit-bearing season, I just can’t seem to get enough of it. For myself, a wedge of blood orange and a sip of good champagne tops it all.

A ripe blood orange tastes mellow-sweet with a slight tinge of saltiness and different from an ordinary orange. Some say it has overtones of strawberries and raspberries and that it’s less acidic than normal oranges. As well as being a trendy fruit, it has become increasingly popular due to its antioxidant goodness and high dietary fibre content. When choosing a fruit, pick one that feels heavy for its size. Remember, as the season progresses, it gets sweeter. Both the juice and skin can be made into delectable sorbets and sauces, creating visual feasts with its colour.

Blood Orange Torte
This is an easy recipe using blood oranges in a spectacular torte. For the base, you need:

• 300g digestive biscuits
• 70g unsalted butter, melted

Line the base of a springform tin with baking parchment. Then crumble biscuits in a food processor or place them in a bag and bash with a rolling pin (very satisfying to release mild annoyances!). Mix the biscuit crumbs with melted butter and transfer to prepared tin. Using the back of a spoon, flatten crumbs onto base until a level base is obtained.

For the filling, you’ll need:
• Three blood orange, thinly-sliced horizontally
• 450g caster sugar
• juice of four lemons
• 4 eggs • 80g flour, sifted
• Two blood oranges, for optional topping

Combine together blood orange slices, sugar and lemon juices. Keep aside for at least two hours.

Now, heat the oven to 170o Celsius. Blend till orange skin is in small bits. In a mixing bowl, lightly whisk eggs. Stir in processed ingredients and sifted flour. Transfer the batter to the prepared tin and level top with a spatula. If using remaining two oranges, slice horizontally and pinwheel orange slices on top of batter. Place cake in oven and bake for 45-55 minutes, until top of torte is lightly browned and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out just dry. Remove from oven and leave to cool completely. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. This torte will keep well in the fridge for up to five days. It tastes better overnight.

My Tips On:
How to prepare orange wedges Just slice off 1cm from the top and bottom of each orange. Standing each orange up on a board, slice off the skin and white pith, following the curves of the orange. Cut each orange wedge leaving the membranes. Squeeze any leftover membranes attached to centre pith, to obtain the delicious juices which can be used for glazes or even just as a drink.

How to make a blood orange glaze
Juice three blood oranges and place in pan with three tablespoons of caster sugar and julienne skin from an orange. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to low. Simmer till a syrup consistency is obtained.

Salad Ideas using Blood Orange These delectable orange segments or slices can also be used in salads. Such as:
• Pearl prawns, blood orange, rocket, pinenuts and pomegranate vinaigrette
• Layers of blood orange slices with smoked duck, watercress and pesto

• Sweet, piquant blood orange slices, blood orange sorbet, caramelised pecan and mesclun salad

As a Basic Salad

Mix together chunks of orange flesh, chopped onions, torn cilantro, sliced spring onions and some feta cheese. I enjoy this each time with a slice of buttered toasted rustic bread.

Don’t despair if you aren’t able to buy any blood oranges. Just replace with Navel or Valencia oranges.

Blood Orange and Carrot Marmalade
Terrific with toasted homemade bread or first thing in the morning! Or served with roast chicken or even lamb leg roast.

You’ll need:
• 500g carrots, grated
• Three blood oranges, juice only
• 250g caster sugar

Place carrots, orange juice and sugar into a saucepan and stir them together. Put over a low heat and stir frequently till mixture becomes thick. Check consistency by chilling a little bit of the jam in the fridge. When ready, pour into a clean jar and leave to cool completely.