Born of sky and earth

2009/10/23

KITTY KAYE

KITTY KAYE writes of wines that take on flavours specific to their region.

IT has been said of wine that it is “born from the sky and the earth and from the love shown it”. It is all climate and terroir. Terroir, according to Michel Chapoutier, “is the union of soil and climate that yields the vintage, and of know-how stemming from tradition. Without people, there is no terroir. People make, or unmake, the terroir”.

Chapoutier, whose family owns Chapoutier winery in the Rhone Valley in southern France, has been dubbed a lover of terroir. In other words, a perfectionist and a man of character.

His wines have a complexity that’s both subtle and rich in personality.

His philosophy of “let the soil speak, express the terroir and its vintage”, Chapoutier is big on biodynamics. Simply put, it translates to “life in action”.

Biodynamic cultivation is demanding and initially expensive. A safe and organic way of fertilising is practised. Respect for natural food chains and cycles results in soil that’s alive and in good condition.

In return, the vines produce grapes which are turned into wines with a long finish, rich in mineral and creamy flavours.

They’re wines designed to accompany a meal prepared with passion. Wines reflecting a love of life and the living. Most of all, wines that age elegantly and get better with time.

Red wines from the Rhone Valley, especially the southern part, are popular. For some, there’s no competition to their full-bodied flavours that complement their acidity or velvety tannins. The Mediterranean climate of the region allows for grape varieties such as Grenache and Syrah to bloom.

Their whites are terrific too. There’s something unpretentious about them with flavours that seem to “live” on your palate.

Chapoutier’s wines are unlike new world wines which are like fireworks that explode flavours in a flash on your palate. Whereas, a Chapoutier wine is like a bonfire — the steady flame lasts longer and burns brighter.

The wines are available in restaurants such as Dubrovnik at Solaris and Vintry Cellars in Kuala Lumpur. Also in bottle shops such as Wine Cellar, The Bottle Shop and Bacchus (KLCC) in Kuala Lumpur. They can also be bought at Asiaeuro in Sabah. They cost between RM80 and RM120.

Muscat Beaumes de Venise 2006 THIS one’s a sweet wine. Dessert wine, if you will. And it has a gold-yellow hue which reflects its silky sweetness.

At first whiff and sip, its all about lychees and jasmine tea — which are pleasant, pretty and fragrant. Actually, if fragrance has a flavour, this wine is it! There’s a treacly pleasantness about this one, reminiscent of candied fruits and bouquets of flowers.

It’s only a winner if served properly chilled. Since it has a long finish and a persevering aroma, it goes well with light zesty desserts such as an orange tart or lemon meringue.

Coteaux du Tricastin la Ciboise Blanc 2006 THIS entry-level white is a blend of Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Marsanne grapes. Its colour reminds me of cats’ eyes: pale yellow with hints of green. Mesmerising to say the least! Unsurprisingly smooth, this one has underlying mineral notes and finishes with a slight bitter edge. A pleasant sip, to say the least.

Serve it chilled and couple it with salty appetisers such as goat’s cheese to bring out its fruity flavour.

Cotes du Rhone Belleruche 2006 ALTHOUGH it may vary from year to year, their 2006 bottles are made out of 80 per cent Grenache and 20 per cent Syrah grapes. This one’s known as Chapoutier’s flagship wine.

Rich garnet in colour, it is high in tannin but thin and mature at the same time. With a higher acidity then the Bila-Haut, the Belleruche carries notes of red fruits such as cherries. It also has a long, spicy finish. I’ve been told this has a typical Cotes du Rhone finish.

Again, chill it for 10 minutes or so. Let it breathe for a bit before serving. Otherwise, it takes on a different personality — somewhat more playful but elegant, nevertheless. This one’s good with gamey meats.

Chateauneuf du Pape la Bernardine 2005 DESIGNED to be aged, this one’s made out of at least 13 types of grapes but mostly Grenache and Syrah grapes. Its colour can only be described as the colour of passion — how else would you describe a mix of deep purple and dark ruby? Its welcoming complexity displays flavours and aromas of roasted coffee in the forefront sprinkled with liquorice after a few sips. And then dark cherries and blackcurrants in the background. Its velvety tannin, full body and long finish characters make this one not only a memorable drink but a flawless one at that.

For it to bloom in all its smooth, elegant glory, chill it for 10 minutes or so before serving. And it’s a perfect companion with any form of protein. For the more adventurous, try it with oily fish.

Cotes du Roussillon Bila-Haut 2007 AS mentioned, Rhone Valley’s reds are a favourite with many. And this entry-level red justifies their popularity.

At first swirl and sip, this one is rustic. Then an all-enveloping tannin tickles your palate. Slowly, a mature flavour sprinkled with notes of cherries, hints of pepper and raspberries, will surface. As you sip it in, you’ll be left with a smooth and long finish.

Chill it for 10-15 minutes before serving. It’s good with beef- and tomato-based pasta sauces.