COOK: Evolution of flavours

2009/10/23

SU AZIZ

SU AZIZ shares recipes from a reputed 35-year-old restaurant that still endears itself to discerning diners.

HERE’S the deal, 35-years is old. At least in restaurant years here in Kuala Lumpur, where a restaurant’s life span is a mere year or two. And most of the time, less! I can count on one hand the number of restaurants that are still standing after three decades. All of them have become eating institutions. Apparently, part of their staying power is their ability to evolve their flavours. While keeping their popular staples.

I’ll give an example. Let’s pick Chalet Swiss restaurant in Equatorial Hotel on Jalan Sultan Ismail. It’s a 35-year-old eatery. It boasts Swiss (or Western) cuisine and it’s a favourite of my parents’ generation. Way back when, it was the place to go when there’s something special to celebrate. The place to be if you’ve “arrived”. And the place to woo that someone special you desire romantically.Now, fast forward to today. The restaurant is almost as old as me — the operative word is “almost”, here! The restaurant still keeps to the 24 watt bulb lighting which is kind to wrinkles. The waiters still practice such elegant mannerisms while serving. Although, the menu has, needless to say, evolved.

Granted, there are a few favourite staples still dressing its menu. Dishes such as its sabayon dancing dessert and the trend which Chalet probably started way back when — serving cream of wild mushroom soup in a giant bread roll. Also, they still keep the tradition of the strolling musicians serenading you while you dine.

Let’s focus on their menu in the 21st century context, shall we? It’s simple flavours, derived from, unsurprisingly, fresh ingredients. As is the trend of today. The discerning palate these days prefer uncomplicated flavours. I blame it on the complicated lives we already lead and demanding jobs we keep! Instead of going on and on about it, I’d suggest you grab the opportunity to sample Chalet’s evolving flavours through its special MIGF (Malaysia International Gourmet Festival, which is happening now until end of this month) menu. It consists of four courses with a free glass of wine and rose sorbet at RM160++ for dinner. Without the wine and rose sorbet, it’s a RM90++ for lunch. The menu which exists until Oct 31 consists of an appetiser of smoked salmon and warm scallops. Then it’s followed by a soup with truffles and crayfish gnocchi. Which is then complemented by either red emperor fish braised in saffron riesling stock or beef topped with pan-fried foie gras. Lastly, sweetened by terribly silky mousse of white and dark chocolates.

There’s a comforting edge to its flavours. Perhaps it’s familiarity. Although, some would say familiarity breeds contempt, I say (in this case), it doesn’t! If you don’t believe me, why not try out Chalet’s Chef Jochen Kern’s two recipes below lifted from his MIGF menu. As usual, I’d say, if all else fails, order it at the restaurant. Go on, make a night of it and wash it all down with its uncomplicated list of wines.

Red Emperor Fish Braised in Saffron Riesling Stock THIS is a mild-flavoured dish from fresh fish, with the saffron giving it a spectacular colour.

You'll need: l 50g oilve oil l 20g butter l a pinch of saffron l 1-2 onions, chopped l 600g red emperor fillets with skin l 200g Riesling (if not used, replace this by adding more fish stock) l 100g fish stock l salt and pepper to taste Method: Pan-fry the fish in a bit of oil until its skin is crusty. Separately, sautee onions, saffron and season with salt and pepper. Then add the pan-fried fish, Riesling and fish stock and simmer on low fire until the fish is cooked, and the stock becomes a medium to thick glaze. Remove the fish and serve on dinner plates after generously drizzling the reduced stock over the fish.

Tip: The dish is terrific with roasted new potatoes, grilled vegetables and steamed white rice.

Chocolate Mousse THIS decadent dessert is surprisingly simple to make. It's silky smooth with the right balance of bitter and sweet.

It is served on a crunchy, nutty brownie-like base which gives contrast to the velvety smooth mousse. This recipe serves four. You'll need: l 60g egg yolks l 60g eggs (with whites this time) l 188g dark chocolate l 44g sugar l a pinch of instant coffee l 16g gelatine powder l 2.4 litres whipping cream Method: l Whisk all the eggs and sugar until fluffy.

l Melt the dark chocolate. l Melt the gelatine powder.

l Whip the cream.

Add melted chocolate into the fluffy egg mix. Fold in melted gelatine. Next, fold in whipped cream. When all is well mixed, chill, then serve in little coffee cups or bowls.