WHAT: Simply divine

2009/10/30

KITTY KAYE

KITTY KAYE shows you how to truly savour fine champagne cognacs.

THE best way to enjoy cognac, according to Remy Martin’s international ambassador Patrick Mariuz, “ees ze way you like eet”.

He is French, of course, and passionate about cognac. Particularly, fine champagne cognac.

Cognac is basically brandy produced in France. It is made of concentrated wines (eaux de vie) which are then blended and aged to produce the divine, intense amber liquid swirling in your brandy balloon glass.

Oops, sorry, my brandy balloon glass! There are many cognacs available in the market, with a handful of market leaders.

Remy Martin has been one of the main players for champagne cognacs for the past few hundred years. Evidently, only 17 per cent of all cognacs sold around the world are fine champagne cognacs and out of that number, 80 per cent are produced by a vineyard producing wines of high quality. Remy Martin is the largest fine champagne cognac producer.

Getting to know fine champagne cognac For the discerning palate, it’ll be easy to detect the velvety texture, and the slow, sexy burn and refined flavours of this variety of cognac.

For the non-discerning palate, the following is an attempt at comparison.

While a normal cognac, produced from wine grapes of the Cognac region, is also smooth, divine with a slow burn of liquid fire, the fine champagne variety has a silkiness to match its fruity flavours.

The basis of Remy Martin cognacs stems from two crus (vineyards producing wines of high quality) — the Grand Champagne and Petit Champagne sub regions of Cognac. These regions, located at the heart of the Cognac area, produce terrific grapes due to the chalky soil and white gravel surface which offers maximum sunlight through reflection.

Needless to say, the by-product of these grapes has a pleasant scent and taste.

Remy Martin XO Excellence

After the complex blending by its cellar master of three decades, Remy Martin’s cognac goes through the process of ageing.

A minimum of four years in French barrels is required for its VSOP (very special old pale) and at least a decade for the XO (extra old) variety.

While I may go on and on about this (believe me, there’s no end to the wonders of the Cognac region’s grapes and the liquids that stem from them), suffice to say, experience them for yourself as they redefine divinity.

The experience begins here Rule of thumb to remember: cognac is always fruity. That’s inevitable since it’s 100 per cent grapes.

At first whiff, a good cognac will not assault your sense of smell with alcohol.

Instead, there is a prevalent aroma of an amalgam of caramel, nuts, berries and flowers, and merely polite hints of wood.

As expected, older cognac (or the more costly variety) will only have smooth edges, long finish and evident fruitiness. At times, even lending a little from the oak barrels in which it was aged in.

Do note, though, a younger one will have an interesting edginess. And, at times, even a shy refinement to its flavours.

The wonderful thing about cognac, like wine, cheese, cigar and fine women, they get better with age. While I enjoy my glass with two ice cubes, some may prefer it with a dash of water or frozen. Some may even enjoy it mixed, as in a Side Car — four parts VSOP, two parts Cointreau, topped up with lime juice and then shaken.

Whichever way it may be, remember what Mariuz said — enjoy it any which way you like it.

Remy Martin XO Excellence THIS one is, without a doubt, bursting with persistent flavours.

Rich in aromas, it tips the scale when it comes to harmonising maturity, character and flavours. This is the flavour of a life well lived.

At first sight, if it’s not love that hits you, it’ll be it’s gold amber hue.

Swirl the gorgeous liquid slowly around your brandy balloon glass.

At first whiff, it’s the resonance of caramel, or treacle, dark ripe fruits and pungent flowers. Then drop an ice cube or two into the golden amber liquid. Swirl it around. Inhale deeply. Smell the bloom of its bouquet. The cognac is slightly diluted but much more generous in giving your senses pleasure.

At first taste, inhale, swirl a generous sip in your mouth and take a moment to truly taste.

Do you detect notes of caramel? The lush, ripe fruits? Did you notice the cognac’s intense character? Or, like me, enjoy its refined warmth that slithers down your esophagus. Also its persistent flavours and long finish.

Most of all, did you notice how woody oak-like flavours seem to take a back seat? Now, that’s a darn good sip.

Remy Martin VSOP This one is, basically, a young man. Imagine a promising, strapping young man of 25, with everything going for him — a promise of a bright future, with the world at his feet. It has a slightly pale amber hue. At first whiff, there is a scent of vanilla and summer fruits. Now, dilute it, inhale deeply and then take a generous sip. Swirl it around in your mouth. Pause for a second and swallow. Let its fiery elegance slowly warm the back of your mouth and throat.

Just like its older sibling, you will notice the woody flavours take a backseat again.

Despite its younger age, this one holds a distinct promise of passion, slow burning fire and utterly memorable sexiness.

There’s a hint of refined rebellion with just enough sophistication to make your palate tingle with appreciation.

Then again, why take my word for it? Nothing spells an experience more than trying it out for yourself.