COVERSTORY: Shanghai sew fine

2009/11/09

CHEONG PHIN

CHEONG PHIN takes a look at the Imperial Tailoring of Shanghai Tang, China’s home-grown brand

which preserves and promotes the fine art of Shanghainese tailoring. IN the world of high fashion in Paris, legendary fashion house Chanel strongly supports its commitment to preserving the diminishing French know-how in haute couture by simply acquiring its specialist ateliers to maintain the traditions of the past. Similarly in China, home-grown international luxury brand Shanghai Tang strongly promotes and preserves the dwindling fine art of Shanghainese tailoring by employing first-hand custodians of the traditional craft, whose fathers are the original artisans or si fu (master of craft) to provide a service called Imperial Tailoring — essentially a one-on-one couture-style consultation that involves choosing fabrics and linings, taking body measurements and creating the best style/design with original Shanghainese tailoring techniques to suit each client's special needs.

The Shanghainese tailoring tradition dates back to the 1900s after the Qing dynasty disintegrated.

The traditional baggy qi pao evolved to the more familiar slender and form-fitting garment that we see today to meet changing demands and the fashions of the time. The modern qi pao created by these skilful tailors with its high collar and womanly silhouette quickly became a popular dress of choice in the high society of Shanghai throughout the decades but sadly was forced out of fashion during the Communist Revolution in 1949.

Fleeing from Communist China to Hong Kong, these tailors brought with them their traditional craft and introduced the revolutionary fashion of the qi pao or cheongsam (long dress in Cantonese) to the people of the island where it remains ever so popular till today.

Fortunately, the traditional skills and detailed techniques employed by these si fu were passed down from father to son who now practise the same techniques to create the Shanghai Tang Imperial Tailoring Qi Pao today — a service that is only available at the Shanghai Tang flagship stores in Hong Kong, New York, London and Singapore. However, a special Imperial Tailoring trunk show offering this couture-like service to VIP customers travels to Shanghai Tang boutiques across the globe twice a year. One arrived in Kuala Lumpur for the first time last week. Sam Roseman, international tailoring manager of Shanghai Tang, proudly presented the latest collection of their traditional and modern gowns in the most luxurious fabrics as well as four samples from the new Bridal collection.

“Imperial tailoring is the essence of the Shanghai Tang brand. The brand is the torch bearer of this style of tailoring and in that sense, we have to guard it carefully and remain dedicated to this fine art of traditional tailoring while being relevant to contemporary fashion and working within our clients’ needs,” explained Roseman.

As such, the Shanghai Tang Qi Pao is a unique mix of antique Shanghainese craftsmanship and traditional Chinese gowns executed in modern, luxurious European fabrics and innovative new silhouettes that cleverly infuse Chinese elements into Western styles — the trademark of Shanghai Tang.

Tiny pinched waists, bare backs, soft flowing fishtails and scalloped lace edging, for example, are combined with a high 7.6 cm Mandarin collar to highlight its relevance to contemporary fashion.

“We have a small team of eight tailors. Four of these artisans specialise in doing the traditional qi pao while the rest are more comfortable with cutting fluid lines, corseting and western-influenced bias-cut tailoring,” said Roseman.

“Unlike other styles of tailoring, our unique Shanghainese tailoring techniques embody intricate hand-finished piping and frog buttons with silk satin ribbons, and most importantly, a well-structured mandarin collar. “The qi pao is cut very flat and the inside of the garment is uniquely rough (as compared to French couture) but fits beautifully on the outside,” he added. A traditional qi pao with minimum detailing will take up to three weeks to complete while a design with beading or a modern spin will take up to three months. Fittings are vital for each order and can involve several changes to ensure a perfect fit for clients.

Blending old and new in a contemporary yet classic gown in gorgeous Devoré fabric from Europe.

Another outstanding feature of the imperial tailoring service setting it apart from other kinds of tailoring is the choice of fabrics it offers. “We source our fabrics mainly from the Premiere Vision textile trade fair twice a year and as such, are primarily European like fine French lace, beaded fabrics from Germany and Devoré, which is a popular fabric of choice with our clients because it’s sheer yet gorgeous for a sexy formal evening look. “We offer the best fabrics in the industry,” added Roseman, who also showed off a traditional jacket in rich floral brocade from Spain. According to him, the Shanghai Tang creative team occasionally develops its own brocade patterns and commissions fabric suppliers to produce them.

Adding more value to these traditionally tailored garments are the incidental Chinese details like hand-made frog buttons in various designs which double up as an embellishment on a Mandarin collar with Swarovski crystals, pink jade floral buttons on a dusty cream bridal gown and an elaborate Swarovski crystal phoenix embroidered on a one-shoulder tube dress, to name a few. “The traditional Shanghainese qi pao may be what we do best but our imperial tailoring service goes beyond that. It has evolved to meet the needs of our global clients by marrying Chinese elements with modern silhouettes and working closely with them to deliver polished garments that best suit their individual needs and body shapes,” said Roseman. “For example, we had a client in London who was awkwardly uncomfortable with wearing a cheongsam collar. We solved her problem by creating a beautiful soft low neck with Chinese-influenced fabric and a cheongsam fitted bodice,” he said.

As for the discerning gentleman who has cast aside the necktie and embraced the Mandarin collar, Shanghai Tang also offers a made-to-measure men's wardrobe service, using the finest wool for its jackets and luxurious silk jacquard for the men’s cheongsam in any colour combination.