COOK: Succulent bivalve mollusks

2010/01/15

SU AZIZ
suaziz@nstp.com.my

SU AZIZ dines on delectable oysters from northwest Ireland.

HERE’S a fun fact for you to chew on: in the days without refrigeration, people were advised to only buy and eat oysters during the months where there’s the letter “r” in them.

It curbs oyster-eating frenzy during winter, spring and fall.

These days, the advice still applies because oysters captured during summer are less flavourful and more fatty. At least, this was what I found out from the internet and Equatorial Hotel Kuala Lumpur executive chef Jochern Kern.

Kern, who runs the hotel’s kitchens, is holding a two-week oyster fest at the Chalet restaurant.

The oysters featured are from the cold waters of northwest Ireland — from the surfing-worthy ocean of Donegal, to be exact.

Oyster chowder

Being close to Iceland and North Pole, the waters there are not only icy cold but clean. And how do I know this, you ask?

Simple. Oysters, absorb flavours of the ocean they inhabit. And the ones I tried at Chalet, were delicately salty, silky bites with the ability to redefine ocean freshness. There’s a pleasant juiciness and silky slither too.

Scent-wise, they exude cold, oceanic-spray fragrance, which spells “clean”. Yes, the overall experience turned out to be quite a feast for my senses!

Also, these oysters have deep bowls to their shells that allow for prolonged moisture, delaying drying which results in loss of flavour.
Chalet’s oyster fest is on till Jan 30. The oysters are in the forms of:

● freshly shucked with a splash of lemon or chef’s unique minty leprechaun salsa
● truly creamy chowder in their signature papa bun and excellent with a splash of lemon juice
● sauteed lightly with homemade linguine folded into double cream, sprinkled with truffle sauce that’s full of texture
● braised in Pinot Noir and shallot stock, then crusted with herbs de province. This one’s my favourite and there’s a light freshness to the flavours
● another creamy but dreadfully memorable glazed with Chardonnay cream along with a layer of Maine lobster and Italian white truffle

All that’s a feast for your palate for RM12++ per gramme. There’s also a choice of dining with an Irish Oyster expert on Jan 22 at RM160++ per head.

My recommendation is to acquire the skill of cooking oysters with Kern at the cooking class on Jan 23 for RM120++, which includes eating everything you’ve cooked! Plus honing your skill on opening, washing and serving fresh oysters.
So, as a bonus, I’ve included two of Kern’s recipes below for you to experiment with.

Leprechaun salsa

Remember, oysters are an aphrodisiac, so, eat in moderation. Unless, of course, you’re planning to make “the world your oyster”! In which case, I’d say, go crazy.


Oyster Chowder

IRISH oysters tend to have tenderly chewy and silky characteristics when cooked right.
This one’s truly creamy and rich but nothing a dash of lemon juice can’t contribute to.
With a slight tang, it simply becomes quite addictive! To try out this comforting dish, you’ll need:
● 8 oysters
● 40g each of carrot and celery, finely diced
● 20g each of onion and leek, finely diced
l a dash each of white wine and cream
l half a litre fish stock
l 20g beurre marnier (equal parts flour and butter mixed into a paste)
l a small dash of truffle oil
l half a handful of parsley, finely chopped
l a large bun, hollowed out
l salt and black pepper to taste
Sautee the oyster for a minute along with the diced vegetables. Add wine, cream and stock. Thicken with beurre marnier. Simmer for a few minutes, season and serve in the hollowed bun, piping hot. Finally, sprinkle the parsley for added flavour and colour.


Leprechaun salsa

THERE are quite a few who would prefer to mask the ocean flavours of oysters.
Some would slather those no-eyes creatures (they have pigmented spots that are light sensitive, instead) with tabasco and lemon juice like it’s going out of fashion.
So, here’s a fresh minty sauce that’s lightly creamy with a touch of pungent and bitter to accompany your oysters. Simply blend together until smooth:
● 20g of mint leaves
● 40g each of celery leaves and shallots
l juice of half a lemon
l a generous dash of stout
l 2 red chillies
l 2 egg yolks
l 1 clove garlic
l salt and pepper to taste
A tip: Refrigerate before serving. It’s even more refreshing! While you’re at it, you may want to experiment this salsa dip with other steamed or lightly sauteed seafood.