Wrapped up in tradition

The suicide of a patriotic poet makes a romantic legend but it’s zong, the tasty dumplings in bamboo leaves, that TAN BEE HONG waxes lyrical over

IT happened long ago, during the Warring States Period in China, but Qu Yuan’s death in 278 BC is still commemorated as Duan Wu or Tuen Ng Festival (fifth day of the Fifth Lunar Month, June 8 this year). When the poet from southern Chu realised he could do nothing to change the corrupt and cruel Emperor, he became depressed and drowned himself in the mighty Mi Lo River. When local villagers heard what had happened, they rushed to the river, beating drums loudly and throwing rice into the river so that the fish would not eat his body. Later, the poet’s spirit appeared, telling the villagers to wrap and tie the rice in bamboo leaves so that he too could receive the offering. That is how zong or glutinous rice dumplings are now symbolic of the festival and you can find different varieties on sale way before the actual date itself. It used to be a family event. The wrapping was usually done by the matriarch and a close group of hand-picked helpers. It’s not as easy as it looks. When not wrapped and tied properly, the zong came apart when boiled, resulting in a soggy mass at the bottom of the pot. Too tight and you’d get a funny shaped zong.

Today, few families have the time to make zong. Anyway, the dumplings are easily available and affordable with prices depending on the ingredients used. One can put anything into a zong though certain items are de rigeur. Premium ingredients include abalone and dried scallops. At the Dynasty Chinese Restaurant, dim sum chef Chai Chee Yuan offers four types of zong. Top of the range is the Five Spice Yam Rice Zong (RM32), a 400g dumpling with whole baby abalone, shitake mushroom, split green beans, belly pork, chestnuts, dried prawns, dried scallop and salted egg yolk. Because of its size, it’s wrapped with bamboo leaves placed over a lotus leaf to “to help it hold its shape during the cooking,” says Chai, 44. It’s a treasure box of flavours, aromas and textures waiting to be uncovered. Then there’s a mildly spicy XO Sauce Zong (RM12) with shitake mushroom, chestnut, dried prawns, belly pork, black-eyed beans, salted egg yolk and XO sauce. “We use dried prawns, scallops, chili padi and ham to make the sauce ourselves,” says Chai, wiping the bamboo leaves. “The leaves are imported from China as local bamboo leaves are too small. There are tiny fibres that must be wiped away before use.” He then brushes the inner surface with oil which will result in a glistening zong when unwrapped. Making a cone with two leaves, he fills it with rice, adds the other ingredients and tops it with more rice. Then he deftly wraps it up and ties it. The XO sauce adds fragrance and there is but just a hint of the chili padi. “Even children can eat this,” says Chai.

Vegetarians will take delight in the Healthy Vegetarian Zong (RM10), one of the most flavoursome I have eaten. Chai says this is because he uses an organic mushroom sauce, shimeji mushrooms and preserved mustards in addition to the usual shitake mushroom, chestnuts and black eyed beans. Keeping in mind today’s health-conscious society, Chai has kept the sweetness level of the alkaline zong (RM8) low and uses organic red beans. But he adds, those with a sweet tooth can always dip it in castor sugar for a crunchy texture. Zong is available from now till June 8.

DYNASTY CHINESE RESTAURANT Renaissance Hotel Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur Tel: 03-2162 2233