Fine Italian by the sea

Wine and dine takes on a new meaning as TAN BEE HONG makes an Italian connection in the Land Below The Wind.

JUST off the main lobby of Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa is Peppino, an Italian restaurant with Denis Vecchiato from Venice, Italy, heading the kitchen. Inside, the wood floors, wicker chairs and paintings of Italian street scenes all add up to a romantic ambience.

One can sit in air-conditioned comfort, or go outdoors, where the sea breeze accentuates the view of passing boats and the sunset as you enjoy pre-dinner drinks and appetisers.

Open only for dinner, Peppino has an impressive menu. Dishes are listed in Italian but don’t worry as there are explanations in English with pretty detailed descriptions so you know what to expect.

Voted Best Restaurant by Malaysia Tatler last year, Peppino does not disappoint – from the friendly smiles of its service staff like Helmi, to its wine selections. One can actually see the walk-in wine cellar just to the side of the well-stocked bar.

The panfried Foie Gras (RM56) is rich and velvety. It comes with softly caramelised cubes of apple and port wine sauce that cuts through the creaminess of the goose liver. Wafer-thin crispy pastry and curly endives add to the pleasure.

Or savour the sweet taste of steamed lobster medallions (RM58) on a bed of green and yellow zucchini. The lobster is topped with black caviar.

Zuppeta di Pesce (RM46) is a Tuscan seafood soup served with focaccia croutons. Mildly piquant, the tomato-based soup hides a bounty of prawns, squid, mussels and fish. Full-bodied and hearty, the portion is quite sufficient for small eaters.

I preferred the Cappucino di Funghi (RM43), a light, creamy soup with all the earthy fragrance of mushrooms and topped with the intense passion of an airy truffle-scented foam.

If none of the listed appetisers tickles your palate, then go to the main courses and order them in appetiser portions.

The Maltagliati all’Aragosta Prezzemolo (RM37 appetiser, RM52 mains) or black and white maltagliati with lobster, for instance, is different and delightful.

Traditionally, maltagliati pasta is made from scraps left over after other pastas have been made. Its name literally means “badly cut”. I doubt if that served at Peppino comes from leftover pasta dough but what’s interesting is that the sheets of pasta are white on one side and black on the other. It comes in a light cream sauce with medallions of lobster, tomato and broccoli.

Pizza (from RM35) is a big deal at Peppino. No thick bread crust here, and no small, personal sizes either. The standard 30cm thin crusts come with toppings that range from traditional Margherita and vegetarian to meaty treats of pepperoni, anchovies, sausages and seafood.

Seafood is a big deal here as Sabah is known for seafood but after four days of fish and prawns, I am ready for a meatier bite. When my Carre d’Agnello in Crosta di Erbette (RM113) is served, I’m amused to see the herb crust looking like a huge green plaster on the meaty rack of lamb. However, my smile turned into a frown when I sliced the lamb to see, not a lovely pink centre but well-cooked meat instead.

One of my dining partners, who had ordered the same dish, fared better and gleefully showed off his properly done portion of lamb.

Dessert is a little tricky. First, there’s having to choose from a tantalising range that includes pina colada, warm sabayon with wild berries, layers of ice ream with ricotta cheese and dried fruit, tiramisu and more.

We settle on the signature dessert called Seven Deadly Sins (RM54), recommended for couples to share. It comes on a long wooden tray with seven shot glasses filled with panna cotta, strawberry with drizzles of balsamic vinegar, tiramisu, lemon lime sorbet, chocolate mousse, fruit salad and ricotta cheesecake.

Naturally we all have our favourites and mine was the zesty, tangy sorbet and the comfortingly creamy chocolate mousse.

There is another sampler, Indulgenza (RM35), that includes passion fruit creme brulee, cassata ice cream, mi-cuit au chocolate and yoghurt cream with mint mango salad.

PEPPINO
Shangri-La Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa
20 Jalan Aru, Tanjung Aru
Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Tel: 60-88-327 888