Time for indies

INDEPENDENT watch brands are loosely defined as brands that are not tied to any big conglomerate. They manufacture and market their watches on their own.

Some even rely on word of mouth to get their timepieces known.

Theirs is usually a one-man show and watchmakers make and fit every part of their watches. Thus quantity is limited to only a dozen or so pieces. Such watches are said to be of higher quality than factory timepieces as great care is taken to make one piece.

There are brands that produce their own movement but that is not very popular as movements are expensive to make. Collectors started noticing independent timepieces some eight years ago and the current trend is to acquire these one-off pieces.

The notion that someone has laboriously hand made a timepiece, besides its original design and excellent craftsmanship, makes it highly covetous. Following are some names that are well-known independent brands.

VIANNEY: Vianney Halter, based in Paris, accumulated a total of 16 years in restoring antique clocks and watches as well as designing, developing and making of complicated watches for various famous Swiss brands. He has been designing and producing complicated watches under his own brand name since 1998.

R. GAUTHIER: Romain Gauthier, 33, decided to create his own brand of wrist watches in 2002. With his technical and engineering background, he was convinced he could design and make his own movement. His first collection, Prestige, has many surprising details, most notably the (missing) crown. Cleverly located under the movement, it can be wound even when it is worn.

KEES ENGELBARTS: He studied at an engraving school and worked in an engraving workshop in Geneva, specialising in the skill for high-end watch brands in Switzerland.

The outstanding feature of his pieces are the very chinoiserie in style featuring dragons and carps.

JEAN DANIEL NICOLAS: Daniel Roth, the founder of Jean Daniel Nicolas, worked for big labels such as Audemars Piguet and Breguet before creating his own label, Daniel Roth.

After years of building a brand, the company found itself in a financial rut. Bigwig Bulgari bought it over but this did not deter Roth from starting anew. Jean Daniel Nicolas is his son who helps him out as an apprentice.