Walking through the portals of time
ALAN TEH LEAM SENG
THE driver manoeuvred through the winding driveway and finally came to a halt under a huge tree. I stepped out and was immediately welcomed by the crisp, cool morning air.
Impatient to start my exploration, I hastily jotted down the driver’s phone number, promising to call him for my ride back to the hotel.
He nodded, waved farewell and soon disappeared around the corner, leaving me to unearth Sarawak’s interesting past at my leisure.
Sarawak Islamic Museum
My first stop was the Sarawak Islamic Museum. Admission was free and I quickly went in through a huge ornate doorway, hoping to enrich my mind with the historical heritage and special culture of the Muslim community in Sarawak.
The seven galleries, housing exhibits ranging from Islamic history to a Holy Quran collection, were spacious and didn’t feel like a typical museum at all. Perhaps the fact that the building was constructed to serve as the James Brooke Malay College, had something to do with it. Some 80 years ago, it was converted into the Madrasah Melayu Sarawak before it became the Sarawak Islamic Museum in 1992.
Constructed of concrete and timber, most of its original structure has been preserved including the two inner courtyards. Connecting the galleries is a sheltered verandah that provides shelter from the sun and rain.
During my hour-long visit, I was particularly impressed with the colourful Arabic wood engravings and wide array of weaponry displayed. Located in Jalan P. Ramlee and just a stone’s throw away from the Sarawak Museum, the Islamic Museum is open daily from 9am to 6pm.
Sarawak Museum
To get to the old Sarawak Museum building, I had to pass by its relatively newer wing, Dewan Tun Abdul Razak, and walk across Jalan Abang Haji Openg via a conveniently placed footbridge. The new wing, constructed in the 1970s, is a popular venue for photographic and art related events and exhibitions.
However, I decided to go first to the old wing to see Sarawakian antiquities of which I am an ardent fan. The moment I arrived, the first thing that caught my eyes was its unique external architectural design. Built over a century ago, during the reign of the second White Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Brooke, the old Sarawak Museum was styled like a European town house. Each year, tens of thousands of tourists, both local and foreign, walk along its hallways to view its exceptional ethnographic and natural history collection.
Inside, I made a quick survey of the exhibits to ascertain where best to start my adventure. Just as I almost turned a complete circle, I got the shock of my life to find myself staring at a huge proboscis monkey in the face! After several tense moments and quickened heartbeats, I realised that it was only part of the stuffed animal collection which included birds, reptiles, mammals and fish of nearly every shape and size.
The west wing was dedicated to the petroleum industry. I learned that oil was discovered in the final years of Charles Brooke’s reign. Small traces of oil were discovered in Miri in 1895 but the amount was too minute to be commercially exploited.
The industry really took off only a decade later when a large deposit of oil was found. The Rajah awarded the first concession to the Shell Oil Company and the rest was history. As I made my way upstairs, I couldn’t help wondering how much Sarawak earns in terms of oil revenue today with the world crude prices hovering at around US$100 a barrel.
The first floor is home to artefacts used by Sarawak’s diverse indigenous people. Peering through the wooden doors of a model longhouse gave me a peek at life in the communal abode. Other interesting exhibits were weapons, musical instruments, body piercing instruments, traditional woodcarvings and handicrafts.
Although it was Charles Brooke who came up with the idea, the museum actually owed its existence to renowned naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace. In Sarawak at the time to study the Wild Man Of Borneo or the orang utan, it was he who convinced Brooke to erect a permanent museum.
Since then, the museum, open daily from 9am to 6pm, has gone through a series of renovations and changes to become what it is today.
After spending a good part of the morning indoors, I stepped out for a walk in the museum garden. Do not be fooled by the word “garden” as this is where you can find ancient exhibits that are too large to be housed indoors.
Complete with a rest area, kiosk, esplanade and fountain, the garden is home to a Punan tomb hut, Iban war boat, Kayan burial hut and a 150-year-old klirieng.
The klirieng is a ritual burial pole that belonged to the Kajang people in the Upper Rajang River. The tribesmen used to intern and preserve in large earthenware jars placed high up in the poles, the remains of their dead collected from burial coffins.
Look out also for a mysterious rock carving and a Kelabit megalith. The former is a reproduction of the original Batu Gamber rock carving in Santubong, near Kuching. It depicts eagle-like figures with strange hornbill heads carved into a huge sandstone boulder. The Kelabit Megalith is a three-stone structure, erected to protect the bones of a chief buried underneath it.
The museum grounds are great for family outings as kids can enjoy nature while learning about Sarawak’s illustrious history. Remember, history lessons are best taught outside the classrooms!
Round Tower
From the Sarawak Museum, I made my way to the Round Tower, located further down the road. On the way, I passed by Sarawak’s first Christian church, St. Thomas’ Cathedral. It was built on land given by James Brooke, the first White Rajah of Sarawak in 1851. Unfortunately, the lack of time did not let me do more than merely admire the grand architectural design from a distance.
The uniquely shaped Round Tower is home to the Sarawak Craft Council. It is open daily and tourists can walk into its showrooms on the ground floor to see craftsmen hard at work.
I watched an Iban woman weaving a Bemban mat. The word Bemban comes from a river reed that grows in abundance in the State. The weaver’s skilled fingers moved the dried reed in and out of each other rapidly and with machine-like accuracy. Surely this must have been acquired through years of experience and further reinforces the claim that Iban womenfolk are expert weavers.
Constructed in 1886, the Round Tower served as a Government Dispensary for both the general public and the European community in Kuching. Some historians are of the opinion that it functioned to ensure security as it was constructed two years after the great Kuching Fire that destroyed a huge portion of shophouses at Carpenter Street and the Main Bazaar.
Up till World War II, sentries stationed at its highest vantage point gave the “All’s Well” call every hour from 8pm to 5am. Across the river at Fort Margarita, the guards would respond likewise.
This bird’s eye view of the town helped the guards to pinpoint trouble at a minute’s notice. After the Japanese Occupation, the Round Tower served as the offices of the Sarawak Labour Department until 1980.
‘Makan’ Time
All the walking and history lessons soon had my tummy rumbling. Not knowing where I should stop for my afternoon meal, I wandered around the nearby eating shops and saw one with a sign that read “Special Mee Kolo”.
I knew this would be a good choice when I saw a huge lunchtime crowd tucking in to this unique Sarawak dish here. The egg noodles, mixed with various spices and sauces, come with a choice of either chicken or pork.
My large bowl of “specials” came with a healthy dollop of homemade chili paste and three huge dumplings. The noodles were just right and the chili paste gave it a zing. At RM3, it was a bargain.
General Post Office
Fully satiated and rested after the delicious meal washed down with a glass of frothy teh tarik, I checked my map and found that the historic Kuching General Post Office was nearby as well.
I was impressed that although it was built in 1931, there was not a single crack visible on the white walls of this neo-classical building. Designed by Singaporean firm Swan and Mclaren Architects, it is said to be the only building in Borneo to have Corinthian columns as part of its facade.
I especially liked the Latin motto “Dum Spiro Spero” literally meaning “While I Live, I Hope”. Seemed like a good lesson for life, I told myself — for if we are to lose hope, what else is there in life worth living for?
Getting There
By Air: Regular MAS flights connect Kuching with major towns within Malaysia and other parts of the world. Domestic flights from places like Bintulu, Miri, Sibu, Penang, Kuala Lumpur and Labuan are regular. Budget airline AirAsia operates between Kuching and Kuala Lumpur. International flights connect Kuching to Singapore and Pontianak (Indonesia). For more details contact Malaysia Airlines at 082-246 622 or www.malaysiaairlines.com, AirAsia at 082-283 222 or www.airasia.com and Silk Air at 082-256 772 or www.silkair.com
By Road: The Trans-Borneo highway connects Kuching to all major cities in the State. It’s five hours by car from Sibu.
Kuching does not have a main bus terminal. Departure points depend on the destination and bus company. Five companies operate services in and around Kuching – Sarawak Transport Company, Chin Lian Long, Petra Jaya City Bus, Matang Transport Company and Bau Transport Company. Long distance buses operated by companies such as Biaramas Express, Vital Focus Transportation and PB Express all depart from the Regional Express Bus Terminal at Jalan Penrissen.
By Boat: Express boats connect Kuching with Sibu. The daily service, starting from 8.30am, is provided by Express Bahagia. Buy tickets at the company office at the Jetty in Pending. From the city, take Chin Lian Long Bus no 1A, 17 and 19 to get to express boat jetty.
Tours
A number of tour agents provide tours in and around Kuching.
CPH Travel Agencies (Sarawak) Sdn Bhd, Tel: 082-243 708/242 289/414 921, Email: cphtrvl@streamyx.com, Website: www.cphtravel.com
Borneo Interland Travel Sdn Bhd, Tel: 082-413 595/426 328, Email: bitravel@tm. net.my, Website: www.bitravel.com.my
Borneo Fairyland Travel & Tour Sdn Bhd, Tel: 082-420 194/420 195, Email: bftravel@tm. net.my, Website: www.borneofairyland.tripod.com
Where To Stay
Try to spend at least a few days in Kuching to fully appreciate its beauty and rich cultural heritage. Accommodation is available at:
Merdeka Palace Hotel and Suites (5-star). From RM172 to RM391. Tel: 082-258 000, Website: www.merdekapalace.com
Harbour View Hotel (3-star). From RM98. Tel: 082-274 666. Website: www.harbourview.com.my
Singgahsana Lodge (B&B) From RM80. Tel: 082-421 346. Website: www.singgahsana.com
Green Mountain Lodging House (budget hotel). From RM40. Tel: 082-416 320
From the post office, Alan continued his walk to discover more forgotten historical landmarks. Join him next week as he takes a peek inside the Old Court House and look across the Sarawak River to where death row prisoners were executed with a keris plunged into their hearts.