Make-up artists and discerning consumers have only praise for the M.A.C Mineralize range. Excitement was in the air when one of Italy’s best-kept beauty secrets — the painstaking process of handmaking and baking a Mineralize product — was unveiled in Milan recently. SURAYA AL-ATTAS was there.

Mineralize products begin as a dough containing a special blend of 77 minerals (top); and (bottom) after having gone through the baking process, this is what a Mineralize Eye Shadow Duo looks like.

Balbier first heard about the unique Clavis tradition of handmaking and baking make-up products 18 years ago.

SOMETHING’s been cooking at M.A.C Cosmetics the last five years but it wasn’t until a couple of weeks ago that this world-renowned make-up brand — founded in Canada in 1985 — decided to give international media a taste of it.

In Milan, no less, where the idea of entering a joint-venture with Italy’s Clavis Cosmetics was first conceived.

Held at the swanky Spazio Nicola Quadri, the event was not only to officially launch M.A.C permanent Mineralize collection but also to unveil one of Clavis’ best-kept secrets: the painstaking process of handmaking and baking a Mineralize product.

As the small group of journalists watched in fascination the making of a Mineralize Eye Shadow Duo — one of the “stars” of this make-up phenomenon — we immediately understood why M.A.C senior vice president (global product development) Jennifer Balbier had been beside herself with excitement when she first witnessed this unique Clavis tradition five years ago.
The Mineralize story, said Balbier, is an unusual one.

“It really started 18 years ago — before I joined M.A.C — when I met Marco Russo of Clavis, who tried to explain to me about the whole baking thing. In those days, the only company that ever baked was Chanel and they were doing it themselves. So the whole idea was quite foreign to me.”

Nothing came out of that meeting. Fast forward to 2003, when Balbier ran into Russo again in Las Vegas. He invited her to the Clavis factory in Crema, just outside Milan. She accepted the invitation and so began a partnership between M.A.C and Clavis.

“The first batch of baked Mineralize products was approved for just one run because Estee Lauder Companies (M.A.C’s parent company) has strict rules about factories it chooses to work with.

“When we first came out with them, there were only three shades and in very small quantity. They sold out within three days!

“We were stunned! Then we went back to Clavis and asked them how many they could make. They said not that many because they had only two ovens!

“I started to hyperventilate. We realised then that we had to find a technology so we could work with Clavis. At the same time, we also had to make sure Clavis would agree to never bake minerals with anyone else,” said Balbier.

The process of making M.A.C Mineralize Powders is pretty tedious. Beginning as a dough containing a special blend of 77 minerals, most of it is done manually, as was demonstrated at the workshop.

With the precision of a fine artisan and eyes peeled on the task at hand, the young woman entrusted with giving the demo measured and scraped just the right amounts of pink and gold-coloured dough before moulding them onto tiny custom-made terracotta tiles and baking them between 24 and 48 hours in a special oven. (go to nst.com.my for the videoclip)

Once out of the oven, the powders have to be cooled for 24 hours, during which time the tiles would allow for the water in the formula to evaporate, creating the light, airy texture that M.A.C Mineralize has been known for.

Needless to say, no two compacts are the same, particularly some of the marbleised Mineralize Skinfinish Powders and Eye Shadows, as the marbleisation is done by hand, when the dough is being formed on the tile.

The pearls in the formula are literally pulled through the dough to create a unique and beautiful effect.

Today, the Mineralize range is all the rage with make-up artists as well as discerning consumers and, added Balbier, is fast expanding in all parts of the world.

And no wonder. With its mineral-rich content — calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium, sodium and zinc, to name a few — Mineralize make-up is much kinder on the skin, making it the obvious backstage choice for fashion shows, particularly for models with sensitive skin.

But the best bit of news — as any make-up lover worth her salt would no doubt agree — must be the fact that a Mineralize product can be applied on the face in multi-layers and still produce a super natural effect.

That’s right. With these babies, there’s none of the cakiness that often accompanies a face that’s been slapped with layers of foundation or powder.

Which is why Mineralize make-up is here to stay, said M.A.C Cosmetics director of global product development Isabelle Rovner.

“This is not just a fad. A lot of people want to layer and have some colour on but they don’t want to look made-up. Mineralize make-up is the way to go.”

One of the first things you’d notice about the Mineralize collection is the stunning colours (especially for the Blushes and Eyeshadow Duos), making it look like mini pieces of art.

Rovner, who was responsible for developing the colours, said the inspiration behind the Mineralize collection came from Nature.

“Since the range is made up of pure and natural micronised mineral pigments from earth, it made perfect sense to look at colours that naturally surround us.

“Some of the most beautiful things are right in front of us. What we did was try to translate the beauty that Nature has bestowed us with into our Mineralize collection.”

SPECIAL FORMULATIONS

M.A.C has always used minerals in its make-up products but the introduction of Mineralize called for the development of special formulations and innovative techniques, said Nick Gavrelis, the company’s vice president director of global product development.

“These new methods have allowed us to create baked, loose and fluid MIneralize products.

“The formulas in the baked products (Mineralize Skinfinish, Mineralize Skinfinish Natural, Mineralize Blush, Mineralize Eye Shadow), for instance, are free of traditional binders found in pressed powders.

“They’re baked for 24 hours on terracotta tiles and the result is super skin adhesion, pure colour, luminous dimension and a luxurious light finish.”

The M.A.C Mineralize collection consists of:

1. Mineralize Satinfinish SPF 15

This product gives flawless, buildable low to medium coverage while nurturing and protecting the skin.

The unique fluid formula contains ingredients that leave skin looking healthy with a radiant satin finish. The long-wearing foundation is especially beneficial for normal-dry skin though appropriate for all skin types.

Polysaccarides from tamarind seeds help to support skin’s moisture. It also contains antioxidants (vitamin E and derivatives of vitamins A and C), a mineral complex including magnesium, potassium, sodium, zinc and titanium dioxide to help protect the skin from harmful UV exposure.

The enzymes from beet root extract, haberlea rhodopensis leaf extract and yeast extract help moisturise and and give skin a more luminescent, reenergised look.

2. Mineralize SPF 15 Foundation Loose

This one has been making headlines with its lightest mineral infusion yet. The oil-free, lightweight, loose powder foundation gives skin a smooth, radiant look with a natural, long-wearing finish.

The fragrance-free formula provides medium-buildable coverage, contains a combination of antioxidants, vitamin E and a derivative of vitamin C, yeast extract and wheat germ to condition, zinc for adhesion and flawless application SPF 15 to help protect skin from damaging UVA/UVB rays. Ophthalmologist and dermatologist-tested. Suitable for all skin types.

3. Mineralize Skinfinish/Natural

A luxurious, light mineral and talc-based powder for face, arms, legs and decolletage that enhances skin while providing coverage.

Uniquely formulated, Mineralize Skinfinish features sericite (mica) and a silky fine talc base, which gives subtle dimensionality and sheer refinement. It contains a blend of antioxidants (derivatives of vitamins A and E) and jojoba oil to help condition the skin.

4. Mineralize Blush

Warm, soft, shimmering shades of pink, gold and bronze give a luminescent appearance. The baked powder formula allows for exceptionally sheer and lightweight application. The colour is buildable without being heavy. Superfine minerals provide cheeks with a glowing complexion. Wearable on the face, arms, legs and decolletage.

5. Mineralize Eye Shadow Duo

The colourful eye shadows are pearlised, sheer shadows that are baked together on terracotta tiles for over 24 hours. During their gradual baking and cooling process, all natural skin benefits and colour purity are retained. Superfine pearl provides a soft enchanting shimmer on skin. They can also be used on the face, arms, legs or decolletage. Use dry for sheer colour or wet for a more intense look. — By Suraya Al-Attas

WORLDWIDE LAUNCH

UP until now, M.A.C has only been releasing Mineralize products in limited editions, beginning with the Mineralize Skinfinish and Mineralize Eye Shadow four years ago.

This month marks the launch of permanent Mineralize in-store displayers in M.A.C stores and counters worldwide.

M.A.C Mineralize will house all of the mineral make-up products in four categories — foundation, powder, blush and eye shadow.

Permanent products include Mineralize Satinfinish SPF 15 Foundation, Mineralize SPF 15 Foundation/Loose, Mineralize Skinfinish/Natural.

In addition to the permanent product collection, there are also Mineralize Skinfinish with shimmer, Mineralize Blushes and Eye Shadows (the eye shadow shades will change seasonally) as well as brushes appropriate for use with M.A.C Mineralize products.