If you’re into French culture but want to venture outside the republic for a change, Quebec City is a great place to start with, writes DAVID LAVOIE.

Relaxation, Quebec-style.

Quebec’s colourful street life as seen in street mimes

Montmorency Falls.

I USED to think that it was the oldest city in continental North America, but Veracruz (in Mexico), which was founded in 1519, claims that distinction.

Quebec City has, however, been around for a very long time. In fact, this year it celebrated its 400th birthday.

It’s a unique place, 110 years older than New Orleans and the birthplace of French culture in the New World. But it’s much more than a bit of France transplanted to the steep cliffs of the mighty St Lawrence River.

The only fortified city in North America, Quebec owes its charm to its long history, a particularly flavourful soup of influences from France, Ireland and England, all mightily stirred by Quebecois’ joie de vivre (simple joy of life).
Although the city's inhabitants are native French speakers, language is generally not a problem since many are bilingual and will happily speak English to visitors.

Quebec City must be on your itinerary for your next visit to Canada.

Of greatest interest to the visitor are two parts of the city, the upper city (Haute-Ville) which lies within massive stone fortifications, and lower town (Basse-Ville), the oldest part of the city established by the French explorer, Samuel de Champlain in 1608.

Haute-Ville is dominated by a Quebec City landmark, the Chateau de Frontenac, a huge palace-like, world-class hotel which first opened its doors in 1893.

The hotel is the most prominent feature of the city and its most recognisable symbol. Nearby is The Citadel, a fortress where visitors can enjoy a colourful Changing of the Guard ceremony. Just outside the city walls, to the west, lie The Plains of Abraham where, in 1759, the British and French fought the epic battle which gave the British control of North America.

So violent was the battle that the generals from both sides perished during its waging.

That event, although never forgotten by the Quebecois, seems far away and long ago as one walks along the Terrasse Dufferin enjoying both Quebec’s colourful street life and sweeping vistas of the river below.

Back inside the fortifications, you can easily shop the rest of the day away in boutiques unrivalled in Canada for their elegance and style.

At some point, you will want to stop for lunch. An interesting, although not inexpensive, choice is Aux Anciens Canadiens, a landmark restaurant just across the square from the Chateau Frontenac which features Quebec cuisine.

If you have a sweet tooth, this restaurant serves tarte aux sucre (sugar pie), a delicious local dessert. You’ll love it, but you won’t want sweets again for a while.

If you are not, however, prepared to spend a bundle on lunch, there are dozens of restaurants in the upper city which serve equally delicious specialties. Quebec City is famous for its excellent cuisine.

To visit the lower town, board the funicular, a venerable cable car for the short, 45-degree ride down. It’s easier on the calves than the steep descent by foot, but if you are an exercise enthusiast, take the Casse Cou (literally “Breakneck Stairway”) and go slowly.

Head for Place Royale, so named for the 1686 bust of King Louis XIV, which is one of its prominent features. This cobble-stoned square is the old market place of the town and dominated by the oldest stone church in Quebec, Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (1688).

The buildings around the square and throughout Basse-Ville are all restored and many date from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Here you will likely meet some of the city’s many delightful, and extremely talented, buskers, mimes and musicians.

On one corner, a charming waif warbles the songs of Edith Piaf; on another, a colourful mime competes for your attention; on a third, an acrobat frantically peddling a contraption straight from Loony Tunes defies gravity.

Artful creativity seems to be bred in the genes of the Quebecois. When you see these street entertainers, stop and enjoy the show; they will delight you.

Explore the various narrow streets around the Place Royale and prepare to be delightedly surprised at every turn. The ancient buildings of Basse Ville house a plethora of interesting gift shops, elegant restaurants and small museums.

Away from the centre of town, there are a number of attractions as well.

Well-worth a visit is the Quebec Museum of Fine Arts (Musee National des Beaux Arts de Quebec). It has some 27,000 pieces on display and presents a stunning visual history of the people of Quebec.

Also fascinating is the Museum of Civilisation (Musee de la Civilisation), especially the First Nations, or Aboriginal, Gallery.

A short drive to the east of the city one finds Montmorency Falls (Les Chutes de Montmorency). At 84m, these spectacular falls are higher than Niagara Falls.

The park surrounding the falls boasts a fine restaurant, a cable car for the lazy, stairs for the energetic, a suspension bridge over the falls and numerous spectacular views.

Across the bridge from Montmorency Falls lies the Ile d’Orleans, which was granted the status of National Historic District in 1970.

The Chemin Royale or Royal Road circles the island and offers a number of panoramas of the St Lawrence, Quebec City and Les Chutes de Montmorency. The many farms on the island offer delicious strawberries and apples. There are a few wineries and even sugar maple stands producing maple syrup in the Fall.

One of the best reasons to visit Quebec City is its many festivals, the most famous of which is the Carnaval de Quebec (Quebec Winter Carnival) which is held annually at the end of January and the beginning of February.

With close to one million participants every year, it is the world’s largest winter carnival and features the Ice Palace, a death-defying canoe race across the partially-frozen St Lawrence river, sleigh rides, snow slides, ice sculptures and boisterous, 24-hour public partying in defiance of the swirling snows of Canadian winter.

No matter what the season, Quebec City is a wonderful destination for those seeking something different. It’s a city of charm, authentic history and people who take enormous pleasure in life.