After 30 days of fasting in the holy month of Ramadan, Muslims in Malaysia today join their brethren the world over in joyous celebration of Hari Raya Aidilfitri. Around the country, prayer and tradition come first, followed by festivities and food that reflect the many different cultures of Malaysian society. The New Straits Times explores the common thread of all Hari Raya celebrations, and what makes each different.

- ANISA SNIK, 25:
She hails from Kampung Takeh in Pattani, Thailand. Anisa works at Restoran Vicchuda Tomyam, which is run by Thai Muslims and is well known for its salted kerabu and other southern Thai specialities.

ON WORKING IN MALAYSIA: I came here with a friend to work in the restaurant (almost two years ago). It is difficult to find work in my hometown. So when a friend told me that the owner was looking for workers, I decided to come.

ON HARI RAYA: The restaurant will usually be closed for two weeks. All of us go home and celebrate Raya in Pattani. Since I don't know anyone else here, I'd rather go back to my kampung, where it is more fun. My parents have passed away but my siblings and I will celebrate at our parents' house.
We start the day with prayers at the mosque. Then we go home to prepare dishes and entertain visitors. Of course, we also give out money to the children.
In the afternoon, we organise a nasyid competition for the children. We build a stage in the football field and all the children will take part.
I love this part of Hari Raya because to me, it is meant for the children. They should be able to enjoy the day. They will get some pocket money, take part in the nasyid competition and win prizes. Everyone in the kampung will come out to support them.

ON FOOD: Usually (we make) those that are sweet like kuih akok and agar-agar. We don't have ketupat made from rice but from glutinous rice called ketupat palas. We also have laksa, satay, nasi minyak and roti paye. Roti paye is like roti canai but it is small and we have to fry it. We eat roti paye with chicken or beef curry.
Each home (will prepare) a signature dish. If one house is serving nasi minyak, the others will have to serve something else. It's interesting because then when we visit each other we will not be eating the same things.
There are Buddhists (in the village), too. Quite a number, actually. We are quite close. They celebrate Hari Raya with us and visit us and give the children money.

- MERIAM SHAIKH ISMAIL, in her 40s:
A MELANAU businesswoman, she has lived in Kuala Lumpur for more than 10 years but makes it a point to celebrate Hari Raya in Kuching. Her husband, Australian David Jenkins, and their four-year old son, Marc Ismail often accompany her.

ON TRADITION: A few days before Hari Raya, we give out alms to the poor and bayar zakat. We also make sure the graves of our parents are cleaned, and change the fabric on the tombstones. All the clothes will be ready, and of course, we have to order the lemang, rendang, and satay.
In Sarawak, we have this Hari Tujuh Lekor, the 27th night, when we put pelita in the garden and the neighbours visit each other, bearing gifts.
My late Mum used to do rolled agar-agar that was cut into flower shapes, like jelly but crystallised. Along with bahulu rempah and dodol.
The morning of Hari Raya, the men go for Raya prayers in the morning and then we all visit the graves. After that, we visit our elders. We also give duit raya to children.
The most popular event is when the neighbourhood children come and wish us Selamat Hari Raya... they are only interested in the duit raya, of course!
It does not differ much (these days) except fireworks were allowed. Now, we have to settle for just sparklers. I make sure Marc gets to celebrate Hari Raya the same way I did in the past, so that he will always remember his roots.

ON HARI RAYA IN SYDNEY: (We celebrated Hari Raya) in Sydney, when it (last) fell in December because that's when we normally go back there. It was so sad (then). That time, my mum was still alive. It was really lonely. My husband's family made up for it by having a family barbecue.
I much prefer celebrating Raya in Kuching where all my family can be together. Normally, I invite friends over for lunch on the first day and make sure Marc learns to salam our guests.
(This year) it will be lunch at our place. We will have beef rendang, satay, lemang, ketupat and chicken curry. - By Su Aziz

- SITI AISHAH ABDULLAH, 41, Housewife:
We celebrate Hari Raya like the Malays but with some special dishes familiar to our people. My favourite food is grated tapioca, boiled and served with grated coconut and sugar. Hari Raya is incomplete without it.
Rendang, ketupat and lemang are also served. (My husband) Kosim Saad prefers lemang to ketupat. Our Malay friends also like his lemang, which is made using the traditional method.
During Ramadan and on Hari Raya, our five children play bunga api (sparklers) together with other children regardless of their religion.
They visit Christian Orang Asli families on Christmas day while during Chinese New Year, half-Chinese families will hold an open house.

- SUHAIZA JAAFAR, 21:
Hari Raya is quite unique as both my parents and three of my eight siblings have yet to embrace Islam. But the whole family will celebrate Hari Raya. I will also seek forgiveness and kiss my parents' hands on the morning of Hari Raya.
My mother cooks halal food and we visit our Muslim relatives and friends.

- KIAH ABDULLAH, 35, who embraced Islam a few days ago with her husband Omar:
We've been celebrating Hari Raya since we were young. I will cook Omar's favourite food - chicken rice and boiled tapioca. I've also made a blue baju Melayu and a yellow baju kurung for myself. I'm planning to visit our Malay friends this Hari Raya. - By Hamzah Jamaludin

- NOORMIAH MOHD JAMIL, 61: She is a descendant of Mandailing settlers who came to Chemor, Perak, in the 1800s, and, through them, of Maharaja Tedung Berani, king of an ancient Sumatran kingdom. She has returned to her ancestral home, a wooden house more than 100 years old, to host friends and fellow villagers.

ON CHEMOR: I thought the people here would stop visiting after my parents died, or when my elder sister died three years ago, but they still come to visit. Home is here in Chemor, despite the years spent in Kuala Lumpur and abroad. All my memories of celebrating Hari Raya are of this house.

ON FOOD: We prepare kuih makmur and rendang pedas, based on recipes perfected by my sister.
Through the years, each ancestral home has become known for a specialty, and guests have learnt to seek out kuih makmur in (my) house and nasi himpit with kuah kacang at (cousin) Hafizah Kamaruddin's.
Rendang pedas, Mandailing-style, uses dried chilli instead of cili padi like in the Kuala Lumpur version. More spices are used in the sambal kacang, such as coriander, cumin, lengkuas and serai.

ON HARI RAYA DAY: She and Hafizah will be visiting Raja Saadiah and Raja Zarah, great grandchildren of Raja Bilah, the brother of Abdul Rahman, and the pioneer of Papan town. - By Brenda Lim

(published: 24/10/2006)