Out in the rural backwaters it may be but INTAN MAIZURA AHMAD KAMAL is convinced that this is precisely what draws the crowd to Riverstone Eco Resort.

THERE’S no denying the pull of this place. Driving up the meandering road to Ulu Yam, with acres of tropical green on one side and breathtaking views of the dam on the other, the waters glistening magically in the afternoon sun, it’s simply post card picture perfect.
It’s hard to believe that the Riverstone Eco Resort is merely half an hour from where I had just left — bustling Bandar Utama. When Riverstone’s bubbly owner, Hamidah Asararuddin, 42, invited me to check out her Ramadan offerings this year, I needed no persuasion. I first met her a few years ago, over some eels and then for some kampung spread. What’s the pull this year?
“You have to try my kerabu,” came her breathless reply.
Teluk Intan-born Hamidah is once again laying out a huge spread for buka puasa with over 60 dishes and a number of “action” stalls serving mee and roti jala. But it’s the kerabu (salad) selection that she hopes will pull the crowd in.
There’s the Kerabu Babat, Kerabu Taugeh, Kerabu Kerang, Kerabu Kacang Botor and Kerabu Mangga. “What’s special is that each of these has its own distinctive taste,” says Hamidah.
Kerabu Babat, made of young cow’s stomach, bean sprouts, long beans and santan tastes very different from say, the Kerabu Taugeh (bean sprouts) or the Kerabu Kerang (cockles). Their common link is the aromatic fragrance from the bunga kantan (ginger flower).
Kerabu Taugeh and Kerabu Kerang are tossed with kerisek (fried dessicated coconut) while my favourite, the Kerabu Kacang Botor (four angled bean), uses fresh coconut. Not only are the beans really crunchy, the concoction is beautifully rich too. “Our Kerabu Botor is quite popular,” admits Hamidah. “We don’t just use garlic, shallots and cut chili. We also add belacan (shrimp paste), cili api, salt and sugar. Some places serve up a huge kerabu menu, yet they all taste the same – only the ingredients differ.”
Hamidah began experimenting with kerabu last year, beginning with Kerabu Urap, a typical Jawa recipe. Unfortunately, she recalls, her customers didn’t know how to eat it! “It’s basically a salad comprising long beans, bean sprouts, pucuk ubi and coconut. So I changed the recipe and used kacang botor instead. It was an instant hit.”
Hamidah is equally enthusiastic about her Tempe Goreng Tepung (or battered soya bean cake). This Jawa offering is a refreshing change from the more common tempe sambal.
The crispy batter is a combination of plain flour, rice flour, turmeric, oregano, garlic and shallot. Eat it hot with a delicious dip made from chilli, garlic, sugar and sweet soya sauce. Lovely! 
I’m glad to note that a big favourite of mine, Ikan Patin Masak Tempoyak (patin fish in fermented durian) is making an appearance this Ramadan. The fish is fresh and beautifully suffused in the tempoyak, whose smell is not in the least overbearing.
The secret lies in the tempoyak. The cooks make it themselves, buying the fresh durian and leaving it to ferment for at least three days.
“Ready-made tempoyak may have other stuff added to it as durian is not cheap and you really need a lot to make tempoyak. RM60 worth of durian will yield only a small container full.”
Apart from the menu, Hamidah believes that the selling point of the restaurant, which has been in operation for the last seven years, is its location. “I think that city folk look for places that are different from what they are used to, particularly during Ramadan.
“It’s very different here. Everything is laid-back and tranquil. Ramadan evokes a sense of nostalgia and memories of childhood in the kampung. Here, they’re transported back to that idyll.”
Hamidah continues: “To be honest, I’m amazed at the response to our Ramadan buffet. On normal days, not many people come but during the fasting month, it seems people think nothing of making that extra effort to come and eat here. I’ve had customers who came all the way from Teluk Intan and then there are those from Sepang, Shah Alam and Bukit Raja. It’s wonderful.”
The Buffet Ramadan, priced at RM35 (adults) and RM18 (children) is from 7pm to 9pm.

RIVERSTONE ECO RESORT
Hutan Lipur, Sg Tua, Batu Caves.
Tel: 012-229 5228/013-226-4605

(published: 09/09/2007)