It is a wet Danang when Fong Leong Ming sets foot in the Vietnamese city, but he is set on soaking up its allure nonetheless
The beach near Nam Hai Hotel in Hoi An
The Goddess of Mercy looms large at Linh ung Pagoda complex
A woman sells her tasty skewered meat in Hoi An
A view of the Japanese Covered Bridge in Hoi An
A hawker in Danang
A view from the Citadel
THE waves are ominous but I am drawn to them. Danang’s China beach, which faces the angry South China Sea, is my idea of paradise on earth. The wind and the waves rant and roar, a magnificent audio backdrop to the pristine beach. There are zero tourists around and I am glad for that. With the wind in my face and the hypnotic sounds of the crashing waves, I could just stay there forever.
Danang is the third largest city in Vietnam, home to almost a million people. Holidaymakers come mostly for the endless beach and the nearby Marble Mountains. Thankfully, it still remains relatively untouched by the crass commercialism that has afflicted Ho Chi Minh City.
Flashback a couple of decades ago. I remember the tiny airport at Danang and the old plane I boarded from Ho Chi Minh City to wearily get there. Danang today boasts an international airport and AirAsia now flies there four times a week, so access is a breeze.
The best time to visit Danang is from January to August as the rainy season starts thereafter, but there’s no stopping our media group from trekking through Danang, neighbouring Hoi An and Hue — in disposable raincoats, no less.
More than just the beach
The incessant rain makes sightseeing difficult. It’s Day 1 of the tour but our spirits are not dampened. Peering through the window as the bus lurches its way through the thoroughfares of the city and beyond, we try to take in whatever sights we could and take a shaky shot or two with our cameras.
The Goddess of Mercy can be seen in the the distance, gradually looming above us as we make our way to the Linh ung Pagoda complex in Son Tra province. At over 600 metres above sea level, the complex offers great views of the city and the adjacent beach. The Goddess herself is 67 metres tall, a sight to behold. Inside her are apparently 17 stories and 21 Buddhas but we never got to go in.
After playing tourists, we are soon herded back onto the bus for our next destination, Marble Mountain, but not before spotting a middle-aged female visitor doing the unthinkable in the distance — pulling down her pants in broad daylight and peeing in a drain. Wow, I thought such sightings are only possible in rural China!
It is late afternoon when we reach Marble Mountain but the huge lift, specially constructed for the weary (read: lazy tourists) is closed so going up by foot is the only option. However, this too is ruled out, thanks in huge part to the downpour that continues unabated. We console ourselves with browsing at a couple of nearby shops selling pricey marble handicraft.
A bit of history
Danang was apparently first settled by the Indonesians. Initially a part of the Champa Kingdom that ruled much of southern Vietnam until the 15th century, Danang played an important part in Vietnamese history for many centuries.
Colonised by the French in 1858 along with Hanoi, Saigon, Haiphong and Hue, it was considered one of Indochina’s five major cities.
In more recent history, Danang is best known for its role in the Vietnam war. The air base there was a major American hub, used both by the Americans and the South Vietnamese army.
Nearby China Beach, named after its beautiful china-white sand, was where wounded and weary American soldiers came to recuperate and recover.
Onward we march
I never knew the skies could contain so much water. It is still raining when Day 2 of my Danang adventure dawns. Our AirAsia organisers want it to be extra special, so our bus takes the Hai Van pass, a winding narrow road that snakes up a mountain, instead of comfortably zooming down a new highway, en route to our next destination, Hue.
This Hai Van pass is a 5km mountain route which takes up 1,500km above sea level, a veritable challenge for drivers due to the twisting and arduous route. Being a left-hand-drive vehicle makes it extra daunting but I suppose the attraction of braving the route are the scenic views of the coastline at every other turn.
We arrive in Hue after three long hours and guess what? It’s still raining! Do your worst, I mutter under my breath as I struggle with my raincoat, camera, bag and dignity. We all look like bloated whales in our colourful raincoats and I think we media folks — all 18 of us — make quite an impression descending on the Citadel.
The imperial complex
In Vietnam’s ancient history, Hue was once its capital, with the palace complex located on the north bank of the Perfume River. Commonly called the Citadel, the complex was built in 1804 and completed in 1833. It is huge — covering an area of 520 hectares — so it’s an intimidating prospect for travel journalists. We make do with visiting some old rooms and pretend to understand what the Vietnamese guide is mumbling in the rain.
To cut a long story short, the Citadel contains feudal relics of immense architectural and cultural values, showcasing the traditional and classical side of Vietnam. Just so you know.
Finally, the rain stops
It’s Day 3 and our official duties (the itinerary proper) ends today. Our guide senses our exuberance as he lets us off in Hoi An, a village-cum-tourist area boasting Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese-style old buildings. The sky is clear and it is a good day to, what else, shop! Like a bunch of excited students on their holiday break, we fan out looking for cheap souvenirs and hawker fare. It’s a good time to practise our haggling skills. With 100,000 Vietnamese dong the equivalent of RM15, calculating the price of anything can be mind-boggling. One guy goes in search of the loo and refuses to pay the 3,000 dong fee, until we point out that it’s only 30 sen-lah. Another female journalist posts on Facebook that she’s spending 83,000 on a item, eliciting numerous queries on whether it’s a branded bag! One thing’s for sure, it does feel good to be millionaires in Vietnam.
Hard to say goodbye
Vietnam has undergone much changes since it opened its doors to tourists 20 years. Then, I went through immigration under the watchful eyes of soldiers brandishing M16s. Today, officers in smart attire man counters and efficiently wave you through. While Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi have, unfortunately, morphed into expensive touristy places, Danang still retains that old-world, simple charm that is quite irresistible.
I will never forget the innocent smiles, the quizzical looks we encounter over language, and the simple folks we meet in Hoi An, Hue and elsewhere. Danang, for me, is on the verge of modernisation and yet not quite there. That is as good a reason for anyone to visit it now before the innocence is lost. As my plane takes off, I take a last longing look at Danang and tell myself that I will be back.
Where to go
Marble Mountains
One of Vietnam’s most popular attractions, they consist of five marble and limestone hills (each named after one of the elements) not far from Danang. Climbing them is challenging but rewarding as there is a panoramic view of the beach and the surrounding countryside. The lazy ones can always opt to take the lift, a huge contraption that looks so oddly out of place with the natural surroundings.
Several Buddhist sanctuaries can also be found within the mountain.
The area is famous for its stone sculptures but rock extraction from the mountains has been banned, with materials now sourced from quarries elsewhere.
Hue
The imperial capital of the Nguyen Dynasty and was also the capital of Vietnam until the communist government made Hanoi as the capital city. Hue houses the Imperial Citadel and within it is the Forbidden City where emperors and concubines cavort. While the city stood majestically during the reign of the emperors, it also witnessed a massacre when it was controlled by the Viet Cong during the war. Hue also suffered damage when the Americans bombed the city in an effort to recapture the city.
One of the main attractions of Hue is the Thien Mu Pagoda, which also serves as the symbol of the city. Other sites that should not be missed are the tombs of several emperors.
My Son Sanctuary
This is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and considered to be the Angkor of Vietnam. Located about 70km west of Danang, it was an imperial city of the Champa kingdom. Expect a large complex of ruined or abandoned Hindu monuments constructed between the 4th and 14th century.
Hoi An
Located near Danang, Hoi An oozes charm and history. This sleepy village is definitely a tourist spot these days, with souvenir shops, bars, and tailors every step of the way.
The weather
February to April
Spring: cool and dry: Great time to stroll about
May to July
Summer: Warm and dry
August to October
Autumn: Cold and wet
November to January
Winter: Occasional thunderstorms and generally rainy
Getting there
The Danang International Airport is 2.5km southwest of the city centre. AirAsia flies to and from Danang every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Call 03-8660 4541 or 03-8660 4333 for more details.
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