MALACCA and George Town, Penang evoke feelings quite different from that of other states in the country. There is a certain air of history and culture that grab you the minute you enter these two states — their unique buildings and landscape are especially arresting.

Indeed, coming from Kuala Lumpur, I find the narrow roads and untidy winding lanes in Penang and Malacca’s historic core rather discomforting at times. Nonetheless, their quaintness can be intriguing.

I feel transported back in time at these two historical cities, declared World Heritage Sites by Unesco on July 8, 2008.

PENANG

PENANG HILL
Arriving on a rather hot day, I thought the best way to cool off is head for the hills — The Penang Hill. At 833m, it is some 5°C cooler than bustling George Town and offers a panoramic view of the Pearl of the Orient.

The only problem is, it is a rather hazy day and I can barely make out the outline of Penang Bridge. Such a pity!

Ah, but the seven-minute ride in the modern funicular train is a lot of fun — what with tourists armed with their cameras excitedly snapping away. When it makes a stop midway for the workers and residents of the hill to disembark, some passengers are all eager to get out, only to discover that it is not their stop yet.

Just like in the Street of Harmony downhill, there is a Hindu temple, mosque and a disused church in close proximity —  reflective of multi-cultural and multi-religious Malaysia.

Sir Francis Light was said to have founded Penang Hill in 1788 while on his pack horse track. Its original name was Flagstaff Hill to the British, as a flag fluttered from a flagpole at Bel Retiro, the home of the Penang governor at that time and it was used as a signal transmitter.

The trip downhill is much faster at barely three minutes and what a jolt it is back to the lowlands. Since the other famous attraction, the Kek Lok Si Temple, is nearby, it is only logical to beat a path there.

KEK LOK SI TEMPLE
Now this century-old Buddhist temple is noted for its 30.2m Goddess of Mercy statue and the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas.

Unlike Penang Hill, climbing up the steps to the temple is hot and sweaty work. Lining these steps are vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs and apparel, offering a pleasant diversion.

Once you have successfully negotiated the various steps, the Liberation Pond or Sacred Turtle Pond with its dirty mossy waters and sorry-looking tortoises greet you. They all gather in the hope that you will buy bread and kangkong (water spinach) to feed them.

A walk through the grounds is relaxing and if you wish to have a closer look at the magnificent Kuan Yin statue, take a ride on the incline lift at RM2 one way.

This temple complex houses a tablet and 70,000 volumes of the Imperial Edition of Buddhist Sutras presented by the Manchu Emperor Kwang Si.

This temple is at its most crowded during Chinese New Year with the locals both from the island and the mainland trekking up here to light joss sticks and offer prayers for a bountiful year ahead, so my sister-in-law, who is from Penang, tells me.

HARMONY STREET
The Street of Harmony or Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling is just about the most fascinating street.  The worship houses of the various religions practised by Malaysians can be found here.

The famous Kapitan Keling Mosque lays claim to be the oldest mosque in the state. Built in 1801 by Cauder Mydin Merican, headman or Kapitan of the Indian Muslim, it faces the Kaaba in Mecca. It must be awesome to have the opportunity to pray in such a historically significant mosque with its elegant surroundings.

There is also the Goddess of Mercy Temple in all its aged glory. The ornate details on its roof and doors speak of aeons past. So too the joss stick urns which are still in use.

You will also see Hindu devotees offering prayers and flowers to their deities housed in a shrine along the street lined with stalls selling flowers.

LITTLE INDIA
A detour into Little India brings you to Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Penang. At the top of the temple entrance, there are 38 statues of gods and goddesses and four swans. This is the place to be during the annual Thaipusam celebrations.

Walking along this street is never boring. The many side lanes and streets bear interesting names. There is Lebuh Queen and Lebuh King on the other side! How about Lebuh Buckingham too... A reminder of our colonial past, eh!

CLAN HOUSES
The various clan houses in Penang bear witness to how clannish the first Chinese immigrants were in order to survive and preserve their culture and traditions in a foreign land.

The younger Chinese generation should find these clan houses with the documented history of their forefathers informative. Even if you cannot read Chinese, these kongsis provide a fascinating insight into the society of that time.

The Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, said to be the most ornate Chinese clan temple outside of China, merits a visit. Just spend some time to appreciate the beautiful craftsmanship and learn the history of this clan from their ancestral roots. Besides the Khoos, there are also the other clan houses of surnames such as the Cheah, Yap, Tan and Yeoh. On my next visit, I shall visit the last as I share the same surname, only that my dialect is Hakka and not Hokkien.

CLAN JETTY
For a peep of homes on stilts, the Chew Jetty is exemplary. The jetty started as rows of plank supported by stilts built as platform for passengers embarking and disembarking. Over time, these platforms were joined together to form a jetty. The immigrants then started building houses on stilts by the side of the jetty and as more houses sprung up, a series of wooden walkways and alleys branched out from the main jetty to become a waterfront settlement.

The dwellings may be small but the area is clean and breezy and you can even spend a couple of nights there to experience life on the water edge as there are homestay options, some offering free WiFi as well.

BRIDGE OR FERRY?
Penang offers the unique experience of being able to drive onto the island using the Penang Bridge and exiting it via the ferry and vice versa. This way, you get to enjoy both a panoramic view of the island from the bridge and a lovely breezy 15-minute ride on the ferry, distracted by the sight of numerous jelly fish in the waters.

MALACCA

Historic Malacca offers a much more sedate experience of a living heritage city. With its government buildings, churches, squares and fortifications dating back to the 15th Century Malay sultanate and the Portuguese and Dutch periods beginning in the early 16th Century, it envelops you into its historical past.

The charm of this city is that the historical sites near the St Paul’s Hill, the 17th Century Dutch Stadthuys buildings and Jonker Street are all within walking distance.

All you need are a pair of good walking shoes, some sun shade and a bottled water to imbibe what it has to offer.

It is the rich history of Malacca that truly intrigues and the sense that it is still left behind in time that is charming.

Just observe how local drivers take their time to get about on the narrow one-way streets. Drivers keep a friendly distance behind cars while waiting at traffic lights. How not to be relaxed in such an unhurried environment?

While Penang is striking with its distinctive clan houses and Chinese temples, Malacca stands out with its historical churches and forts.

RUINS AND CHURCHES
The ruins of A’Famosa (Porta de Santiago), built by the Portuguese in 1511, with its old cannons are reminders of its once proud position as a fortress that had been seized and destroyed by the Dutch and British.

Climb up St. Paul’s Hill for yet another remnant of Portuguese rule. This church was built in 1521, and offers a panoramic view of town. It was originally called Chapel of the Mother of God and was renamed St. Paul’s Church in 1641 when the Dutch defeated the Portuguese. And when the British took over Malacca in 1824, they added a lighthouse in front of it and used it as a storehouse for British gun powder!

The striking St. Francis Xavier’s Church tower built in 1849 stands above the historic area and is the focus of activities during major Christian festivals and during its patron’s feast day.

STADTHUYS AND MORE
No visit to historic Malacca is complete without visiting the Stadthuys. This is possibly the most photographed site in the state. This salmon-red building was the residence of Dutch governors and officers with a huge bread oven within.

It’s touted to be the best preserved historic building and now serves as a history and ethnography museum. By paying an entry fee, you get to the Literature Museum, Admiral Cheng Ho Gallery, Governor’s House and Democratic Government Museum up the hill behind it.

Next door to the Stadthuys is the Christ Church in the same salmon red colour. It was constructed by the Dutch with bricks imported from the Netherlands. Christ Church was later converted into an Anglican Church by the British. It is still in service and is sometimes closed to tourists, particularly on Sundays.

MALACCA RIVER
One of the most leisurely walk is along the picturesque Malacca River with many eateries and lodging places. It winds its way from Dutch Square and goes past Tan Boon Seng Bridge. Then there is the “Ghost Bridge of Malacca” (a pedestrian bridge which links Kampung Pantai to Kampung Jawa) and the Old Market Bridge (which links Kampung Hulu to Jalan Kee Ann and the old Central Market).

In the past, it used to be a picturesque scene of fishing boats berthed along the riverbanks here but today it is mostly rows of Chinese restaurants catering to tourists.

An early morning or evening walk on the boardwalk is also enjoyable. Of course you can now opt to go for the river cruise that takes you all the way to Kampung Morten, which is the only traditional Malay village in the heart of Malacca city.

It is considered a living museum as many of its villagers still maintain age-old customs and traditions while living in typical Malacca houses with long roofs and tile-covered stairs in front.

PERANAKAN COMMUNITIES
Both Unesco heritage cities are the birthplace of the unique Peranakan communities. They are truly the local born as they are offspring of immigrants marrying local women. They are the Baba-Nyonya and Chitty Malacca communities, where the former are of Chinese origin while the latter are of  South Indian Hindu merchants and local women, from the time of the Malacca Sultanate in the 15th Century.

In Penang, besides the Baba-Nyonyas, there are also the Jawi Peranakans, who are descendants of inter-marriage between South Indian-Muslim traders and local women, clustered around urban centres, particularly in the port of Penang.  

LIVING HERITAGE
Malacca and George Town are remarkable examples of historic colonial towns on the Straits of Malacca that had undergone a succession of historical and cultural influences being trading ports linking the East and West. They represent the most complete surviving historic city centres on the Straits of Malacca with a multi-cultural living heritage originating from the trade routes from Great Britain and Europe through the Middle East, the Indian sub-continent and the Malay Archipelago to China spanning some 500 years.

Both the multi-cultural tangible and intangible heritage are clearly manifested in the many religious buildings of different faiths, ethnic quarters, the many languages, religious festivals, dances, costumes, art and music, food and daily life.

All these factors contribute to the charm and joy of visiting Malacca and George Town. Coupled with their distinctive local food, they certainly offer their own flavour to entice visitors over and over again.