The lake has many pristine natural attractions, big fishes and a wonderful sunrise, writes Hanna Hussein
IT'S almost noon and we're supposed to be boarding our houseboat.
Yet half of the passengers, including myself, are still on the road towards Pengkalan Gawi Jetty.
Located 62.6km from Kuala Terengganu, Pengkalan Gawi is one of two pick-up points for houseboat tours in Tasik Kenyir.
The lake is the largest man-made lake in Southeast Asia. It was formed in 1985 after the Kenyir dam was built with the Sultan Mahmud power station.
Before the flooding, this place used to be one of the earliest settlements in Hulu Terengganu, with many kampungs dotting the area. Nearly 100 families were relocated to make way for the dam.
Now, it has become one of Terengganu's best ecotourism destinations that offers unique houseboat packages that are ideal for big groups to explore the lake.
With an area spanning over 25,900ha, Tasik Kenyir has more than 300 small islands, 14 waterfalls and caves, which give houseboat operators plenty of places to stop by.
Its water flows into various rivers, including the main Sungai Terengganu that meanders past the state capital and into the South China Sea.
As it is one of the places on my travel bucket list, I was excited when my aunts invited me to join a 3D/2N package.
ALL ABOARD
Arriving at the jetty five minutes past noon, my cousins and I quickly unload our bags and food from the car to transfer them to the houseboat.
"You're late," one of my aunts jokingly tells me and my family.
Chilling out on a plastic chair while watching us chaotically dragging all of our stuff on board, she's one of the early birds who boarded the boat that will be our home for the next three days.
Our houseboat, Square Kenyir Houseboat 1, is one of the smallest the operator has, but it is large enough to fit 20 people comfortably.
There are six rooms — two with a queen-size bed and four with two double-decker beds.
My sister, Hanim, and I share a room for two, which is quite spacious. There's space for us to put our backpacks and still have enough room to pray.
There are four bathrooms — one on the upper level that includes a shower and toilet — and the other three are downstairs, where one has both shower and toilet, whereas the other two only have either a shower or a toilet.
And, it's a good thing that these rooms and bathrooms are spotlessly clean!
The houseboat also has an air-conditioned living room, which is only switched on in the evening to save energy. For entertainment, a TV with a karaoke set and a few open space areas are provided for great hangouts.
Since our family opted for the no-meal package, we brought our own food, which is enough to feed everyone on board for three days.
The houseboat's roomy kitchen is equipped with a commercial stove burner that can cook two dishes at a time, a huge electric rice cooker, cooking utensils as well as plates, cutlery and many more.
There's a huge freezer and a giant-sized orange cooler box for us to store frozen food and ice, as well as dish racks and tables for food preparation.
After everyone has settled down, we all take a seat in the common area, excitedly waiting to embark on a sightseeing trip across Tasik Kenyir.
But, before the captain starts the engine, all passengers are required to listen to a safety briefing conducted by a staff member of Square Houseboat.
He also introduces to us our captain, Rosnaimi Mohd Ariffin, 46, together with his crew, who will assist guests throughout the trip.
We will be stopping by a few landmarks, which are all "must-go" places as suggested by the company (which we agreed beforehand), and the first is just 16km away from the jetty.
HERB ISLAND
Our boat swiftly drifts across the peaceful waters, heading towards the first destination of an island full of herbal plants.
Popularly known as Pulau Herba, Pulau Sah Kecil is a small island that visitors can cover in a day trip.
A hidden gem for the elderly, especially, there are more than 200 species of herbaceous plants growing on the island, including Tongkat Ali, Kacip Fatimah, Tongkat Haji Samad, Misai Kucing, Mas Cotek and many more.
Those herbs have been used to treat maladies long before modern medicines were introduced.
We get to see various types of herbs planted on 16.2ha of land on the island and learn about their benefits.
According to Rosnaimi, the island was chosen to grow herbs because it has the highest concentration of wild herbs.
But, the Central Terengganu Development Authority has also done a good job in planting more herbs.
Visitors are given half an hour to walk around, visit the booth to buy dried herbs or young saplings, and even check out Pondok Harmoni, a hut where visitors can sample herbal teas that have been prepared traditionally using a large clay cauldron.
REFRESHING WATERFALL
Continuing our voyage, the houseboat sails south towards our next destination, which will take about three hours to reach.
Meanwhile, packed lunches are served at the common area, which has been set up like a dining space overlooking the vast waters, complete with buffet tables and picnic mat for children to sit down.
One of my aunts has brought a few selections of nasi kerabu and nasi berlauk all the way from Kota Baru, Kelantan, which is delicious! I opt for nasi kerabu daging bakar and my sister chose the ayam bakar, which we share.
After lunch, we adjourn for a catch-up session since most of us have not seen each other since the Covid-19 pandemic hit.
We chill at the open space upstairs on comfy mattresses. Despite the hot and humid weather, the wind provides us with cooling relief.
At 4pm, we arrive at Sungai Lasir, where our houseboat will drop anchor for the night.
Here, we can visit one of the most popular waterfalls in Tasik Kenyir, which is the Lasir Waterfall.
We aren't the first to arrive, as there are already more than 10 houseboats parking by the lakeside, with a crowd heading up to the waterfall by speedboat.
Our captain and crew prepare our speedboat to take us to the waterfall area, which is just two minutes away.
We then scramble on the rocky river, heading for the side where there's a trail going up to the high level of the multi-tiered waterfall.
There is a suspension bridge that offers a breathtaking view of the waterfalls, which also makes a great photo background.
Not wasting time, I jump in for a dip with the rest and, oh gosh, the pristine water feels so cold and refreshing!
After spending almost an hour, we head back to the houseboat for water activities at the lake.
The vessel is equipped with three kayaks and two speedboats which are free to use.
Not really confident on kayaking just yet, Hanim suggests that we go for a dip in the lake.
To swim in the lake, it is compulsory to wear a life jacket provided by the houseboat operator. There are various sizes, even for babies and kids. After gearing up, we jump in!
Be aware that if you jump into the water, the lake can "swallow you up" due to its low salinity, which is why it is important to wear your life jacket properly.
It isn't what I expected, but the lake water is quite warm and once you get the hang of floating, you can enjoy the swim.
For safety, make sure you swim in groups near your houseboat because the area is also a waterway for speedboats, and they may hit you if you are out alone.
After a while, Hanim finally decides to try kayaking, and being adventurous, I say "yes".
Rosnaimi teaches us the basics, and it's surprisingly fun.
I have done kayaking by the beach before, but believe me, it's so much easier here on the lake as there are no waves and the water is calm.
Before we call it a night, the men (our uncles and the boat crew) prepare a scrumptious barbeque dinner with lamb, chicken and fresh seafood skewers. There's also fried rice, as well as coleslaw prepared by the women.
SCHOOL OF KELAH
Day two, we wake up early to prepare breakfast before moving to the next location.
Today, we will be visiting another interesting attraction in the southern part of the lake.
As the clock strikes half-past seven, the engine starts and we begin our journey west towards Sungai Petang, which will take about three hours of slow cruising.
Here, we will be checking out a sanctuary for the king of Malaysian rivers, which is none other than the ikan kelah!
Known as the Malayan Mahseer (Tor tambroides), it is one of the most expensive freshwater fish in the world, thus its royal nickname. It can fetch as high as RM300 to RM1,000 per kg, depending on the breed and whether it's wild-caught.
Groups of visitors are divided into sessions, and ours is at 11am. All geared up in comfortable attire and walking shoes, we wait for the operator's speedboat to pick us up.
Not too long after, we see a speedboat dashing towards our houseboat, it must be our turn.
The boat takes us to "Hentian 2" and according to our captain, since it is high tide, the hike which typically takes an hour, has to be cut short.
At the stopover, we are given a briefing on the dos and don'ts by the sanctuary operator.
He also says that the hike will take about half an hour to Lubuk Kejor sanctuary, but we finish the hike within 20 minutes.
Although it's mild, it is very exhausting due to steep stairs and hilly tracks. Upon arrival at Lubok Kejor, I can hear shrieking and laughter from the riverside.
After waiting under the shade for 15 minutes, the operator calls out to our group and instructs us to wear life jackets.
Then, we head down towards the river, which is when I spot a school of fish in the river — a mix of golden and a little bluish grey — as well as another species that looks more pinkish.
There are perhaps hundreds, or maybe thousands of ikan kelah in there, and honestly, it freaks me out a little.
Hanim braves herself to follow my uncles into the river to feed the fish with food pellets that we bought for RM2 per packet at the base.
She grips a whole bunch of pallets, dips her hands in, and lets them go. Suddenly, her feet are swarmed with ikan kelah scrambling for food.
She then beckons me to join, and without thinking further, I dip in my feet till waist down.
It feels a little ticklish at first, with all the fish brushing against your legs, but after a few minutes, it feels awesome to have the fish swimming near me.
CATCHING THE SUNRISE
After the Kelah Sanctuary excursion, our houseboat sails north to our last destination — Pulau Chergau.
It is one of the largest islands in Tasik Kenyir, and the houseboat will make a stop at its famous attraction, the Saok Waterfall.
Instead of taking the speedboat to the waterfall base, Hanim and I decide to kayak there.
The hike up to the Saok Waterfall is not so tough. Plus, dipping in the water is really a refreshing way to conclude the tiring day.
In the evening, after dinner, I join my uncle and cousins in setting up their fishing rods. One of my uncles goes to put bait at some of the suggested fishing spots nearby and leaves them for the night.
Tasik Kenyir is a popular fishing haven as there are more than 300 species of freshwater fishes to challenge the most enthusiastic angler.
From arowana to snakeheads (ikan toman), it is said that anglers will definitely catch one, at least!
Surprise, surprise, out of the five baits that my uncle set up last night, three manage to snare different sizes of ikan toman, the biggest weighing at least 9kg!
My sister and I promise to wake each other up early to catch the sunrise on a kayak. This turns out to be the most amazing part of the whole journey.
We wake up at 6.30am, take down the kayak, and start paddling towards the sunrise, catching the orange hues on the vast horizon of the lake. Oh, what an incredible view!
FAST FACTS
SQUARE KENYIR HOUSEBOAT
TEL 0199837658 / 0179817658
FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/squarekenyirhouseboat
Discover Tasik Kenyir at affordable prices using Agoda Discount Code.