The wildlife surrounding David Bowden’s lodge provides him with sightings that rival Discovery Channel programmes
PATIENCE is a virtue especially for sighting wildlife although the plains of Africa are arguably the finest place on Earth to observe wild animals in their natural habitat.
In the past, foreign trophy hunters travelled to Africa to hunt and shoot many of these majestic animals and while tourists now flock here, the ‘shooting’ is restricted to cameras.
There are several countries in southern Africa where conditions are ideal for ‘shooting’ animals but, on my most recent visit, it was Zambia that was firmly in my camera’s viewfinder.
This land-locked nation is surrounded by eight other countries and is well connected from Malaysia on Ethiopian Airlines via its African hub in Addis Ababa, the Ethiopian capital.
It was a long flight but made more enjoyable by Ethiopian Airline’s inflight service and entertainment. Flying to Zambia also breaks some personal record in that I travelled via five national capitals in one day in reaching my destination — Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Addis Ababa, Harare and Lusaka.
LODGE LIFE
From Lusaka, I fly on a domestic flight to Mfuwe International Airport, which must be the smallest international airport I have passed through. I was informed that the occasional flight from neighbouring Malawi flies here to ensure it retains its international status.
Here I am greeted by the big friendly smiles of my local nature guides from Kafunta Safari Lodge; one of several safari lodges located on the eastern banks of the mighty Luangwa River, less than one hour from Mfuwe.
‘Clap your hands twice when you want to visit the restaurant or bar once the sun has set,’ my guide Patrick informs me after showing me to my very comfortable chalet.
Wild animals freely roam around the lodge and with no plans to being their next meal, I meticulously follow Patrick’s instructions and felt safe asastaff member escorted me to dinner and back.
The chalets are very well appointed with flyscreen windows, mosquito net over the bed, ceiling fan, tea and coffeemaking facilities, hot showers,fridge, and a spacious semi-open verandah for watching the wildlife grazing on the floodplain below. While the lodge has Internet, there are no phonesor televisions in the chalets.
I am reminded that the wildlife surrounding the lodge provides me with sightings that rival Discovery Channel programmes.
Apart from the restaurant and bar, the other lodge facility was Fig Tree Spa where foot, back and neck massages are available using Swedish massage techniques.
Lodge guests can also contribute to or participate inarange of activities that benefit members of the local community.
Asa partner in Project Luangwa, the lodge contributes funds to build and renovate classrooms, provide the students with desks, construct libraries, sinkbore holes, conduct school conservation safaris, and, organise greening of schools activities.
WILDLIFE SAFARI
Visitors travel to South Luangwa from around the globe to participate in a wildlife spotting safari and it isn’t long before I join four other adventurers as we head off in one of the lodges open-sided safari vehicles.
Training and experience obviously help, but safari drivers/guides have keen eyes and will generally locate animals well before anyone else.
They then manoeuvre the vehicle so that everyone can enjoy an uninterrupted view. Being open-sided, these purpose built vehicles are perfect for wildlife photography as there is sufficient space to ensure fellow travellers don’t obscure your vision.
Within minutes of setting off, we come across a family of elephants grazing on the lush vegetation that flourishes during the wet season.
What amazes me is how nonchalant the elephants and other wildlife are with our intrusion.They simply go about their routine seemingly without any interest in us at all.
Next, it is sighting half a dozen Thornicroft’s (or Rhodesian) Giraffe, which are endemic to South Luangwa. It is an amazing experience especially when informed byour guide that only 500 ofthis sub-species survive on the planet and only in this park.
As the safari progresses, we start ticking off animals such as common waterbuck, puku, impala, plains (Burchell’s) zebra, common warthog, velvet monkey and, spotted hyena.
Sadly, South Luangwa isn’tthe location for blackrhinos as they have been poached into extinction. However, an exciting reintroduction programme is underway in the not yet accessible North Luangwa National Park.
There is an impressive list of birds to sight too and ifI am to offer advice to those contemplating a Zambian safari it would be to bring a pair of binoculars and the longest camera lense possible (at least 200mm) to best see and “shoot” animals.
Of course, everyone wants to see lions and up until the last day, our only sighting is a solitary female and her cub hunting in the dim light around the lodge. While difficult to see, it is thrilling to at least get a glimpse of them preying unsuccessfully upon a herd of grazing puku.
However, those with patience are rewarded and on our return journey to Mfuwe Airport, we sight a pride of lions not far from the lodge. We manage to get within metres of them to ensure that this is the highlight of our visit.
Wildlife safaris are conducted in the morning and afternoon and while the time varies from summer to winter, it generally means waking up at 5.45am for breakfast and then driving out at 6.30am just as the sun rises.
Most safaris return at 11am for an 11.30am brunch and then a rest before an afternoon safari at 3.30pm followed by dinner
at 7.30pm. This is quite standard in Zambian game lodges and, in many other parts of southern Africa.
TRAVEL FILE
HOW TO GET THERE
Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) operates its brand new Boeing 787-900 Dreamliner on the Kuala Lumpur to Addis Ababa sector (there is a change of aircraft here for the onward flight to Zimbabwe and Zambia). The Dreamliner raises the bar for airline comfort and enhances the Ethiopian Airlines cabin experience as it is recognised as the most innovative and efficient airplane flying today. Mahogany Air (www.mahoganyair.com) operates charter flights from the Zambia capital, Lusaka to Mfuwe International Airport for access to the Luangwa Valley.
WHERE TO STAY
Kafunta Safari Lodge (www.luangwa.com) offers eight deluxe safari chalets along a ridge just above the Luangwa River. Outside of the rainy season, the lodge operates a pontoon with immediate access into South Luangwa National Park. Meals in the lodge are served in the open air and an inviting bar adds to the enjoyment of sundowners in this remote part of Zambia.
PICTURES BY DAVID BOWDEN