Away from the Unesco Heritage site, Loong Wai Ting discovers murals and quaint cafes along alleyways
PAST experience has taught me that the best way to climb St Paul’s Hill, the little mound in the heart of historic Melaka where the region’s oldest church stands, is to start at Porta de Santiago or A’Famosa, for the steps are easier to mount than from the other side of the hill.
I look around and spot the coat of arms of the Dutch East India Company stamped on the main entrance of the A’Famosa, the abbreviation VOC (Verenigde Oostindinsche Compagnie) still visible today.
Built in 1511 by Alfonso de Albuquerque when the Portuguese first landed in Melaka, Porta de Santiago, has seen many changes throughout the centuries.
It changed hands from the Portuguese hen the Dutch took over and later it was saved from being demolished by Englishman Sir Stamford Raffles.
Today, the ruins of the church and A’Famosa, the Stadthuys and other historic buildings are part of the Malacca Museum Complex. I’m on a heritage trail organised by the newly opened DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Melaka, a stone’s throw from the Melaka Unesco Heritage site, as a part of its 3D2N staycation.
OLD ROOF-LESS CHURCH
A slight breeze is blowing from the Straits of Melaka as I begin my climb. The hike takes less than five minutes.
The usually quiet hill is now filled with vendors selling keepsakes, souvenirs and drawings depicting many popular sites in Melaka. While the parents man the stalls, their kids make a few ringgit for themselves by selling whistles that sound like chirping birds.
Teeming with history, St Paul’s Church is impressive inside and outside. The stone walls still ooze charm despite being battered by the wind and harsh weather.
The Portuguese, who were the first foreign power to conquer Melaka, built the church in 1521 before the Dutch took over and turned a portion of it into a cemetery.
Today, you can still see tombstones dating back to 1650s. A statue of St Francis Xavier, with a portion of its arm missing, stands at the main entrance. St Francis Xavier led an extensive mission into Asia under the influence of the Portuguese empire to spread Christianity to this part of the world.
The window-less and roof-less church offers a breathtaking view of the Straits of Melaka that stretches far beyond. A gentle breeze blows and it’s time to head back down, where the famous Cendol Jam Besar awaits.
ICY, TASTY CENDOL
Down from the hill, we walk towards bustling Jonker Walk, passing through the throng of tourists at the red-coloured Dutch Square. There it is — a cendol stall with patrons forming a long queue. The icy dessert is a must especially on a hot day.
There are a few places in the city that serve good and tasty cendol and this is one of them. Open daily from 3pm to 7pm, the cendol stall gets its name from the iconic Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower in front of the Stadhuys building.
As I eat my first slurp of the sugary dessert, with colourful condiments such as red bean and corn custard, I glance at the clock every now and then. The clock piques my curiosity about its origin. Although it is named after Tan Beng Swee, it was built by his son, Jiak Kim, in 1886. Tan senior was a famous philanthropist who had donated a huge portion of land in Bukit Cina, where the city’s Chinese cemetery now lies. Not only that, the bridge above Sungai Melaka that tourists traverse to cross over to the Jonker side was built by the family.
Jiak Kim commissioned famous clockmaker in London, Smith & Sons Clockmakers, to come up with the clock but in 1982, it was replaced byaJapanese make, Seiko. The move caused an uproar among the local senior citizens who survived the Japanese Occupation.
ARTY WALLS
Ditching the crowd,Iexplore some of the hidden gems along Sungai Melaka. Beautiful murals line almost every wall of the pre-war shophouses. There are beautiful paintings of people on thehigh walls along the river as well. I explore quiet alleyways, admiring murals by local artists. With their vibrant colours, some with a good story, one can easily spend half a day taking photos.
Unlike 3D art museums which charge exorbitant entry prices, you can get some of it for free here. The best ones are located behind Jalan Kampung Kuli, a stone’s throw from Cheng Hoon Teng Temple.
Stray cats sleep on the ground as I trudge in further into the well-maintained back alley on Jalan Kampung Kuli. Just as I am about to step out from the other end of the alleyway, I come across a small cafe tucked in the middle of a courtyard of someone’s home.
Smiling at the owner, while seeking respite from the heat outside, I make my way to the front of his shop, where I linger for a moment before slipping out into the hot afternoon sun again.
A CUPPA OF JOE
Melaka has some ofthe best coffee shops. Along the main road on Jonker Walk, hipster cafes occupy pre-war shophouses, giving the old buildings a new lease of life.
As I settle into my seat in one of the lesser known cafes near a junction, I study the menu printed on a wooden block. The Coffee Jar on Lorong Hang Jebat impresses me with its simplicity. The two-year-old cafe located in the small alley is manned by husband and wife, Chong Joe Yee and Ivan Teh. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans wafts in the air as soon asIlet myself in through a wooden sliding door.
On the left, a huge coffee roaster is slowly roasting beans and it doesn’t take long before they “pop”, signifying that they’re ready to be taken out and air dried. Long Black and it tastes good — bold, strong, a little chocolatey with a hint of hazelnut. I am glad that I picked this place. From the ambience to the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, the cafe is not cluttered with retro stuff, although an old but functional cassette player plays music.
GOOD TIME, GOOD LOCATION
MY room on the 16th floor of the newly opened DoubleTree by Hilton Melaka faces the old part of Melaka Historic City. While it doesn’t look much different from the rest of the city, the old part of Melaka seems to come alive at night. Lights from the heritage sites light up the night sky.
Situated 10 minutes’ drive away from the Unesco World Heritage Site of downtown Melaka, the hotel makes an ideal location for those who want to experience Melaka’s delicacies and heritage, while visiting famous attractions, including Jonker Street, heritage buildings at Red Square and St Paul’s Hill. The hotel is the latest DoubleTree by Hilton property in key destinations across Malaysia. The others are in Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Johor Baru.
As a member of HHonors, checking in is a breeze. In minutes, I am whisked away to my room, pre-set to a cool temperature -awelcome feature after spending a good half of the day in hot weather.
A quick wash under the rain shower, I am ready for the plush bed. The mattress is firm and supports the weight well. A night of restful sleep later,Iam ready to head to the coffee house, Makan Kitchen, for breakfast.
Famished, I eye the good food. Here, there is no shortage of local and international cuisine, which caters to all ages. Psst... Go for the prepacked nasi lemak! It’s so good that I go forasecond helping.
Pizza lovers can head to Tosca, the Italian restaurant on the third floor. Here, you can customise your pizza with your favourite ingredients. You can also have your pizza by the nearby infinity pool.
One of the highlights of my stay is lounging by the poolside, taking a dip whenever the weather cools a little. I also enjoy taking in the sunset view in the evening with my new friends. My good time at the hotel comes to a speedy end and before long, it’s time to pack my bags and head home.
But before that, I go down to the reception desk for an express checkout. The friendly woman behind the desk hands me the signature Hilton cookie for a sweet journey home.
FAST FACTS
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON MELAKA
Hatten City, Jalan Melaka Raya 23,Melaka
TEL 06-222 3333
EMAIL melaka.info@hilton.com
WEBSITE http://doubletree3.hilton.com/en/index.html
STAY 273 rooms, including 27 suites and a luxurious Presidential Suite. All rooms featurealounge chair or sofa, a 48-inch LED TV and a work desk. The spacious suites haveaprivate bedroom and a separate living area. Some of the suites overlook the Straits of Melaka.
EAT Three dining outlets: Makan Kitchen which offers daily buffets and live cooking stations; Tosca Trattoria Italiana features both indoor and al fresco dining. Axis Lounge boasts a relaxing environment where you can enjoy drinks and light snacks, while you catch up on emails. GO for the Sunday Hopping Brunch (RM112 per pax and dine at all three outlets), every Sunday from 12.30pm- 4pm.
DO Swim at the infinity pool or catch the sunset at the SkyDeck in the adjacent Elements Shopping Mall. Access to the SkyDeck is free for guests.
>b>GO Stroll along Melaka River in the evening or hop on the Melaka River Boat Tour. Drop by famous Jonker Walk during weekend and pick up souvenirs. There are also museums and attractions such as the Stadhuys, Christ Church and A’ Famosa nearby.
HIGHS Family-friendly facilities including a kids’ club, fitness centre, outdoor infinity pool, sauna and steam rooms. For groups, there is an option to connect up to four rooms withashared private hallway.
LOWS It gets crowded during weekends and school holidays.