A trip to South Korea’s capital gives Loong Wai Ting an insight into its past and present
SWEAT trickles down my back as I climb the seemingly never-ending stairs of a subway station in Gangnam, South Korea. It’s after work and the majority of the South Korean population pack every subway station, all of them heading out somewhere.
People are everywhere. commuters, shopkeepers in the underground market place, train masters, train conductors - everywhere you turn, there are people; and lots of them.
It’s a scene of chaos, the usual scene in a subway in Seoul, especially during peak hours. The air becomes stuffy and you crane to see the bi-lingual signages.
With shopping bags in hands, I weave in and out of the human traffic, hoping that I get to the right exit. The
subway system in South Korea is vastly-developed and each station has multiple exits, so it’s important to get out at the right place otherwise you’ll risk going on a huge detour.
I nearly collide with the man in front of me when he stops abruptly, fumbling in his pockets for the T-Money card, South Korea’s equivalent of our Touch N Go card. A brief moment of panic as he tries to locate his T-Money card, which actually sits on his shirt pocket.
He taps his card on the check out machine which then produces the unmistakable ‘doot’ sound and green light to signal that he’s safe to pass. When it’s my turn, I do the same and make my quick exit on the right.
TRADITIONAL SEOUL
After three months of hot and humid weather, the temperature cools down to mark the beginning of autumn. With an average temperature of 13 to 14 degree Celsius, it’s comfortable to walk around the city.
From Sinsa Station, located in the Gangnam-gu, I tap my T-money card and take the subway to City Hall, a hub of political and administrative activities in South Korea. Here, I can see the past and present of Seoul infused together.
The famous Gyeongbokgung Palace and Deoksugung Palace are located near each other. My visit to Deoksugung Palace is well-timed as I get to see the changing of the royal guards ceremony known as Sumunjang, which takes place three times a day.
Surrounded by high rise, the palace is located at the corner of one of the city’s busiest intersections. Built during the Joseon dynasty, the palace is the only one of its kind that sits alongside western-style buildings and high rises in the city.
Famous for its elegant stonewall, the current palace ground is a shadow of its former splendour, with onlyafew of the original structures remaining.
Next, I walk for about 10 minutes to the Gyeongbokgung Palace which arguably is the most beautiful palace in South Korea. Don’t be surprised if you see locals joining foreign tourists dressing up in the traditional Hanbok costumes as they visit places like the palace or even have coffee at a nearby cafe.
Here’s an insider tip: Enjoy free entry to the palace if you dress up in Hanbok. Some stores in the area offer discounts too, if they see you dress up in their traditional wear. If you don’t own one, don’t worry. There are many shops offering Hanbok rental service.
The Bukchon Hanok Village is nearby and I decide to walk around the neighbourhood before heading out to my next destination. As this is a residential area, it is advisable to keep your voice at minimal level. There are local guides (most of them are residents of the village) who speak passable English if you need help with directions.
The walk up the village can be physically-taxing, if you’re not used to uphill climb.
Start slow, take your time to walk up to the village’s observatory to see the overview of the entire Bukchon Hanok Village.
There are some 900 hanoks or Korean traditional houses here, packed very close to each other. During the Joseon dynasty, members of the royal family and aristocrats lived here. It still retains the old world charm and has served as a popular filming locations for TV dramas and films.
As I explore the quiet neighbourhood, Kim Yung Boo, a local resident and retiree offers to take me on a free guided tour. Kim, who grew up around the neighbourhood explains that the area around Bukchon Hanok Village has changed drastically over the years.
As he goes around explaining the design of the houses, I learn that each traditional Korean house has three essential things in order to be considered one: A balcony-like raised verandah, water catchment (in case of fire) and earth that forms the base of the house. There’s a replica of a large Hanok, which is opened to the public at no charge.
On my way down, I meet a friendly ahjussi (uncle), who works as a resident postman, on his way to work. Speaking in a smattering of English, Han shows me around his neighbourhood, pointing at sidewalks that leads to small shops sell ing breads and souvenier.
He even shows me the Bokjeong Well which used to supply fresh water directly to the Gyeongbokgung Palace. These days, people don’t drink from this spring anymore.
Later that day, I head over to Ikseondong, a hidden treasure of the busy city. Here,you’re more likely to find locals having coffee in one of the small cafes than noisy tourists bargaining for cheap souvenirs.
Arguably one of Seoul’s oldest hanok neighbourhoods, this hidden gem is given a new vibe, all thanks to the artsy cafes and stores that mushroomed in recent years.
Some of the architecture here is not as grand as its cousin in Bukchon Hanok Village, but you’ll find equally impressive and charming stores that offer a glimpse into Seoul’s past before rapid development took over.
The first thing you notice as you set foot here is that much of the neighbourhood is still very much lived in. Some of the store owners still live here.
HIPSTER SEOUL
While exploring, I stumble on back alleys and side streets which lead to hanok houses that give off that unintended charm.
There’s a mix of artistic flair in this area too. There are various stores selling all kinds of hand made products from baked goods to soaps and even essential oils. The neighbourhood also boasts many cafes and restaurants; and one that’s worthy of mention is Seoul Coffee.
This Instagram-worthy cafe is worth checking out if you’re into photography and coffee. Its butter bread is to die for. Huge slabs of cold, salted butter is stuffed inside the fist-sized bread. To balance out the saltiness and the rich, creamy butter, there are red bean fillings in the middle of the bread too.
Wash it all down with delicious Vienna coffee or the Sikhye or sweet rice drinks.
Do try the ice-cream too. Packed in small squares, you can try a bit of everything from plum flavour to orange with bits of orange peel in it.
Feel free to walk around the Hanok-style cafe and take as much photos as you like because every corner is picture-perfect.
Also, Seoul Coffee is a great place to unwind and plan your next destination. In case you need help with directions, the cafe’s friendly baristas are more than happy to help you.
Before heading out for dinner, I decide to drop by another cafe, famous for its all-pink theme. From Anguk station near Ikseondong, I take the subway to Hongdae subway station. From Hongdae subway station, it’s just a 10 minutes walk to the popular Style Nanda Pink Pool Cafe.
Occupying the top floor of a four-storey building, the cafe belongs to the cosmetic brand 3ce in the Hongdae area. This is a much bigger store and cafe compared to its first joint in Myeongdong, a shopping haven for all things cosmetics.
The interior of the cafe is painted pastel pink, while blue ceramics are plastered on the walls. On the far end, there is a shallow pool but you’re not allowed to go in. But the reflection from the neon-pink lights on the water makes this place a truly #instagramgoals whenever you drop by Seoul.
Recommended by a local friend, Erin, I head over to a basement cafe, Ikovox Coffee at Garosou-gil in the Gangnam area. This trendy neighbourhood is a hub for many South Korean hipsters, who flock to this area for everything fashion-related and of course, for a cuppa.
Ikovox roasts its own beans and the lovely scent of freshly-roasted coffee welcome me as soon as I push open its glass door. The interior is tastefully furnished with plenty of natural lighting from the open windows.
I have its signature latte, a relatively easy choice for me. Inhaling the rich aroma and sipping the thick, foamy liquid...ahh.. the aftertaste still lingers.
When it’s time for dinner, I head back toGangnam to a local restaurant for some authentic hansik or Korean food. Banchan (small dishes) of all kinds including kimchi are laid out in front of me.
Feeling famished from my Seoul-tripping earlier, I order noodle soup, steamed pork belly with kimchi, seafood and kimchi pajeon (pancake) and the must-have spicy fish cake soup.
A few friends decide to join me for my sumptuous feast, but what’s a feast without soju, right?
With our cups empty and belly filled, I’d say my trip in Seoul couldn’t be more enjoyable than it was.
Pictures by Loong Wai Ting
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Travelling with T-Money
So, what’s T-money, you ask? It’s just like our prepaid card Touch N Go but is more sophisticated as the T-money card can also be used to pay for meals at selected restaurants and convenience stores.
The reload-able card is available in subway stations in Seoul and convenience stores with the T-money signs. Each card costs 2,500 won (about RM9) and you can top it up in subway stations and major convenience stores in the city. At the end of the trip, you can opt to cash out the remaining amount in the card or keep it for your next trip.