David Bowden discovers that in this romantic city, all who dream ofawhite Christmas will see it all come true
THE minute I walk down the steps to my aircraft that has just landed in Salzburg Airport into lightly cascading flakes of snow, I just know this is going to be a Christmas to remember.
This is not just any airport but rather Salzburg Airport W.A. Mozart, named after the Austrian city’s most famous citizen, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who was born here and whose music lives on throughout Austria and the world.
One of the advantages of flying into regional airports like Salzburg is that the arrival formalities are rapid and I am sightseeing within an hour of landing.
Later, while in the centre of this romantic city, it is snowing and temperatures are hovering around zero, but there is very little accumulated snow on the ground.
SANTA IN SALZBURG
From the middle of November until Christmas, cities, towns and villages throughout Austria are transformed into enchanting Christmas markets.
These markets are also known as Advent Markets or Christkindlmarkt (the period before Christmas from Dec 2 until 24).
Suitably rugged up, I enjoy exploring the main market in the UNESCO protected centre of Salzburg. Known as the Christkindlmarkt, it is located in Cathedral Square and while it only dates back to 1974, earlier versions go back as far as the 15th century.
The aromas of Christmas cookies, stollen and other cakes, piping hot punch (including gluhwein or mulled wine) and roasting chestnuts linger in the chilled air.
Most markets do not move into full swing until sunset (in the Austrian winter this is about 4.30pm) as office workers meet friends after work and parents bring their children to join in the merriment.
Being the tourist city that Salzburg is, there are crowds in the market when I arrive around lunchtime.
Being as cold as it is, it isn’t long before I am sampling the warm punsch (as the punch is known).
On some nights, a choir sings Christmas carols, much to the delight of children who, accompanied by their parents,huddle around heaters in the chill of the evening.
There are other markets in romantic Salzburg including those at famous sites such as Schloss Mirabell on the other side of the Salzach River and Hellbrunn.
Fans of the Sound Of Music will especially like these two markets as the buildings at each, appeared in the famous movie.
GLUHWEIN IN GRAZ
A half-day overland journey sees me arriving in Austria’s second largest city, Graz.
Its historic inner precincts are another UNESCO World Heritage Site with the main castle or Schlossberg rising high above the city.
Christmas decorations around the Hauptplatz, Town Hall and along Herrengasse in the Innere Stadt make the city in winter more memorable.
Being a university city with six universities and 60,000 students, there is a lively creativity even in the traditional Advent markets scattered through the old city that is dissected by the Mur River.
A special treat is to visit the magical Kastner and Ohler Department Store where its towering Christmas tree, store decorations and the views from the roof top restaurant over the old town centre are most impressive.
A nice sculpture by Kimmo Frosti on the Landhaus Courtyard is a short-lived work of art (it slowly melts away with fluctuating temperatures) that especially appeals to children.
A CAPITAL CHRISTMAS
Vienna’s Altstadt or Old City with long pedestrian shopping precincts like Karntnerstrasse and The Graben are festooned with festive lights to set the scene for a magical Christmas in the capital.
A tall arched gateway with candles receives visitors at the entrance to City Hall Square for the Vienna Christmas World on Rathausplatz.
The 150 or so booths at the traditional Christmas Market offer festive gifts, Christmas tree decorations, handicraft, culinary delights, confectionery and warming drinks. The trees in City Hall Park and along
the Ringstrasse Boulevard radiate with a An Austrian white Christmas festive glow.
Visitors can skate overahuge ice rink and along numerous paths through the park.
Christmas the world over is really for children and Vienna is well decked out to bring joy to every child. Children’s World here offers a carousel ride, a reindeer train and wonderful light installations based upon Christmas tales, throughout the park.
Close by is the Christmas Village on Maria-Theresien-Platz, between the grand old buildings of Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Naturhistorisches Museum.
Over 70 booths offering traditional handicrafts and unique gifts are set up during Advent. Gospel choirs and music groups add to the festive atmosphere.
The Old Viennese Christmas Market on Freyung in the city centre dates back to 1772 but things have changed over time.
Now it is the place to especially purchase glass decorations, handicraft and ceramics.
Advent music can be heard on the square from 4pm. Top-quality handicraft are available for purchase a couple of steps further along at the Am Hof Advent Market.
Christmas music and choral singing provide the perfect atmosphere.
The Christmas Market in front of Schonbrunn Palace enchants with its grand backdrop of the imperial palace. This atmospheric market offers traditional handicraft, hand-made Christmas decorations, Christmas concerts and an extensive children’s programme, including Christmas workshop.
When I visit at mid-morning, it is in full swing with tourists eager to become part of an Austrian Christmas.
Another market on my list is on Stephansplatz just below the city landmark of St Stephen’s Cathedralor Stephansdom.
The market focuses on traditional wares with some 40 stalls offering high-quality Austrian products. The Advent market at the Opera House is all about culinary delights — gingerbread cookies, cheeses, meats, punch and wine from regional producers. This is an essential stop for Malaysian visitors.
There are few countries in Europe that offer as much diversity and excitement in their Advent Markets as Austria.
TRAVEL FILE
GETTING THERE
Turkish Airways (www.turkishairlines.com) flies direct from Kuala Lumpur to three Austrian destinations via the brand new airport hub in Istanbul. From here, flights continue onto Salzburg, Graz and Vienna, which is quite amazing considering Austria is a country of just under nine million people. This means that it is possible to fly into one of these Austrian airports and then out of another. It also means that passengers can experience the wonderful service and inflight meals and entertainment of Turkey Airlines while on-board.
CONTACTS
Austrian National Tourism (www.www.austria.info), Salzburg Tourism (www. salzburg.com), Vienna Tourism Board (www.vienna.info) and Graz Tourist Office (www.graztourismus.at). In Kuala Lumpur, contact the Office of the Commercial Counsellor at the Austrian Embassy ((T:+03 2032-2830) for more information on travel to Austria.