Hanna Hussein is enthralled with everything this prefecture has to offer
IT’S 11 degrees Celsius outside and I am comfortably tucked in the warm cosy bed of my hotel in Fukuoka. But I need to get up and refresh because today, I will be travelling to see another prefecture. Actually, even better, I am going to tick off another region in my Japan bucket list.
The nearest would be Chugoku, the neighbouring region of Kyushu. From Fukuoka, it takes less than two hours to reach the southern tip of Chugoku, the Yamaguchi prefecture. And, because of its close proximity to Fukuoka, it is so ideal to do a day trip to explore some parts of the prefecture.
Packed and ready to go, I head to the lobby to join the other media from Malaysia who are also on this familiarisation trip organised by AirAsia X together with Japan National Tourism Organisation. Sharp at 7.30am, the team will make its move to travel to the border of Kyushu-Chugoku.
EINSTEIN WAS HERE
Before we enter Yamaguchi prefecture, we will make a quick stop at Kitakyushu, the northernmost city of Kyushu Island. Since the olden times, Kitakyushu has been a major hub for land and marine traffic and infact, is the gateway between Honshu and Kyushu. It takes just an hour and a half’s drive to get there but it might be slightly faster via the shinkansen stop at Mojiko Station.
Here, we are going to explore a little town known as Moji Port Retro Area where there are many historical buildings from the late 19th century. The buildings are mostly influenced by the western architecture during the Meiji and Taisho periods, but are still remarkably well preserved.
We are welcomed by a guide who will be taking us on a walking tour to see the charming town. The tour begins from Mojiko Station, the oldest station on the Kagoshima Line.
The station is a quaint Neo-Renaissance style building which was built in 1914 and still retains its vintage feel.
Our walk continues outdoors where we leisurely head to Old Moji Mitsui Club. Built in 1921, the two-storey half-timbre style building used to be a guesthouse and a social club. Albert Einstein and his wife stayed in this house in 1922. We are lucky to be able to explore the place, which is now a museum exhibiting Einstein’s memorial room as well as a hall dedicated to Japan’s feminist novelist Hayashi Fumiko, who travelled and worked in Kyushu.
According to the guide, Mojiko Port used to be an important hub to export coal back in 1889, but after the end of World War II, the demand for coal fell and the place went into decline. Despite the downturn, many of the waterfront buildings survived, including the former Moji Customs Building, which is a remarkable red-brick architecture which we get to see from far.
On its side is the Blue Wing Moji Bridge, a 108 metre-long, pederstriand rawbridge which rises at certain times of the day to let the big boats pass through. We came on time, as we get to see the sight of the bridge rise to a 60-degree angle. We will be crossing the bridge to get to the ferry station, but first we will be going to the Mojiko Retro Observation Room where I’ll get to see a bird’s eye view of the area. The observation room is located on the 31st floor of a high-rise condominium (the highest, and most modern building in the area) at 103m. From up here, we get to see the surrounding of Moji Retro Town, including the Ganryujima Island and the blue waters of Kanmon Straits, where we will be crossing later to go to Yamaguchi.
FRESH FROM MARKET
We then catch a ferry to cross the Kanmon Straits, direct to Shimonoseki, the biggest city of Yamaguchi prefecture. The place is basically a major fishing port and was given the nickname “Fugu Capital” because Shimonoseki is one of the largest harvesters of pufferfish in Japan — in fact, we will be tasting this exotic dish this evening.
But first, we are going to explore the Karato Market, which is a wholesale fish market just like the famous Tsukiji in Tokyo.
Located just a stone’s throw from the jetty, Karato Market is located by the waterside and is where fresh catch is auctioned early in the morning.
We did not manage to see the live auction. However, we get to experience the Ikiiki Bakangai, the lively market selling fresh sushi including sliced fugu and freshly cut sashimi. The place is crowded with not only tourists but locals too! The price is so affordable, and you can savour your dish by the waterfront while enjoying the scenic atmosphere. However, this stall is only open on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Looking at the yummy fresh seafood, I feel so hungry so we head to Kamonwharf which is a commercial facility where you can find plenty of local restaurants. We head upstairs to a nice quiet Japanese restaurant to try out Kawara Soba and fresh sushi.
Finished with lunch, we head downstairs to try out the exotic dessert — the sea-urchin flavoured ice-cream.
Surprisingly, it tastes so sweet and creamy, almost like corn, and not-at-allfishy!
SHRINE BY THE CLIFF
Next on our itinerary is Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Said to be one of the most beautiful shrines in Japan, it is situated in Nagato, about one and a half hour away further up north from Shimonoseki.
Driving up to the destination (especially in a big bus) is so unnerving because of the winding, narrow road. But, we arrive safely and it’s definitely worth it. The view of the place is spectacular.
Famous for its 123 red torii gates donated by businessmen from all over Japan, the track stretches in a row towards the cliff overlooking the blue ocean. In fact, the shrine is like a mini Fushimi Inari in Kyoto but on the ocean side!
The shrine on the hill houses the sacred spirits that were split about 60 years ago from Taikodani Inari Shrine in neighbouring Shimane prefecture. It is said that the shrine originated from a story where a God posing as a white fox appeared in the dream of a local fisherman, telling him to enshrine it there.
At the shrine, there is an offertory box placed at the top of a five metre-tall torii gate at the main entrance. It is believed that if you successfully throw money into the box (make sure to make your wish when you make the throw), your wish will come true. Of course I tried, and succeeded!
TASTE OF FUGU
Coming back to Shimonoseki, we stop at Heike Chaya by the Kanmon Strait to try out one of the most deadly dishes — fugu.
Fugu, pufferfish, or blowfish is famous here and it is poisonous. Although the flesh and skin are completely harmless, the internal organs are full of lethal toxins that can paralyse every muscle in the human body. Therefore, only a trained and licensed chef can serve this exotic dish. The chef needs to go for years of apprenticeship and a rigorous exam.
Here at the restaurant, we tried fugu sashimi. Unlike any sashimi I have tasted before, fugu is more subtle, probably because it is thinly sliced. Aside from that, we also get to taste fugu salad (yubiki), fugu stew (fugu-chiri), fried fugu, and even deep fried(fugu-kara-age). Do bear in mind that most restaurants serving fugu will be pricey.
Anyway, I tried it and survived, and you should too! Well, for the thrill of it at least!
FLY IN COMFORT
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