Hanna Hussein gets a quick tour of a few prefectures in Japan’s southern most main island, Kyushu
KYUSHUis more than just its capital, Fukuoka. In Japanese, Kyushu means “Nine Provinces”, referring to the ancient provinces of Saikando of which the island was once divided during the Asuka period.
Today, there are eight prefectures in this southern most region of Japan: Fukuoka, Miyazaki, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Kagoshima, Saga, Oita and Okinawa. I will be visiting not just Fukuoka (AirAsia X flies here from Kuala Lumpur), but also other prefectures located on the northern part of the island.
You can really rely on public transport to get around Japan. However, since I am joining the AirAsia X and Japan National Tourism Organisation media familiarisation trip to Kyushu, we will be going around on a coach.
Our group has already spent a couple of days in Fukuoka prefecture and we will continue further south to Kumamoto and Nagasaki, before heading back to Fukuoka to catch our flight back in four days’ time.
The drive from Fukuoka to Kumamoto takes three hours. Oh, it’s going to be a long journey. Fortunately, the organisers have planned a great itinerary where we will make short visits to some of Kyushu’s attractions along the route.
OITA IN A FLASH
Our first stop is Oita, the eastern coast of Kyushu famous for Onsen hot springs and fresh seafood. It is also a great destination for nature sightseeing and we’re about to witness one of the most breathtaking places in Oita —Kokonoe Yume Otsurihashi, a giant suspension bridge.
Spanning majestically across above Kyusui Ravine, the bridge has an elevation of 777m and measures 390m in length and 173m in height. It is Japan’s highest pedestrian suspension bridge stretching across a pristine natural environment which changes with the season.
Constructed in May 2004, the bridge was completed in October 2006 at a cost of two billion yen (RM76 billion). It is designed to withstand wind velocities of up to 234km per hour as well as endure 119 tonnes in weight (1,800 people) at a time.
Admission is 500 yen and you can enjoy the thrill all year round except during bad weather of excessive rain, wind and ice.
Excited to see the view, yet terrified of heights at the same time, I take my time crossing the bridge, holding to the side tightly. The weather is so cold and very windy up here, and I can feel the gentle sway of the bridge. Looking down, I can see the forest view below through the small holes of the solid iron grate but I feel safe.
Starting from the Nakamura side, I am already halfway through to the Kitakata side, but I have to make a stop to admire the stunning scenery of the green surroundings witha view of Japan’s finest falls, Mesu and Osu Shindo Falls.
It takes 15 minutes to return to the starting point, without any stop.
SIGHT OF KUMAMOTO
From Oita we drive to Kumamoto prefecture. Here we stop at the Daikambo Geosite lookout to get an unobstructed view of Aso Caldera, an active volcano in the centre of Kyushu. Its ancient caldera ranks among the world’s largest, with a diameter of up to 25km and a circumference of over 100km.
Situated on the northern edge of the caldera wall on the highest of Aso’s peak, Daikanbo was orginally known as Toumigahana (“see far nose”). According to our guide, on a clear day, you can see the mysterious Nehanzo floating above the clouds.
Nehanzo is the contour formed by the five peaks of Aso, which resemble the sleeping Buddha.
Well, it isn’t a good day for us today. The weather is really misty, and I can hardly see the surroundings as we hike up a hill heading towards the tip of the nose. However, the route is so beautiful, and we end up stopping for a photo with golden grassland as our background.
We don’t complete the full round loop of the walking track which can take more than 40 minutes because we are heading to Suizenji Jojoen.
Just less than 1½hours away from Daikanbo Lookout, Suizenji Jojoen is a spacious, traditional Japanese-style landscape garden located in Kumamoto. It was originally the site of Suizenji temple constructed by Hosokawa Tadatoshi in the 17th century.
This beautiful Momoyama-style garden evolved during the reign of his grandson Tsunatoshi, who later built the garden around the temple. The garden represents the Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido Road, a famous route that ran from Edo to Kyoto.
Our walking tour at this garden begins from Kokindenju Teahouse, a traditional Japanese house which was brought from Kyoto in 1912. Here, you can enjoy traditionally prepared Japanese tea and sweet snacks.
You can opt to sit outside (550 yen) or enjoy seating in a tatami room overlooking the beautiful Japanese garden (650 yen).
Each person will get a set of a really sweet snack, either Izayoi or Kaseita, that really goes well with the thick green tea.
The hostess teaches you the traditional way of drinking tea. When the hostess presents the tea bowl simply receive it with both hands, bow to her and raise the bowl in a gesture of respect. Before you drink, admire the bowl, and then hold it with your left hand and rotate it three times using your right hand. You can then gently take a sip. Traditionally, it takes only three sips to finish the tea. To put down your bowl, rotate the bowl three times again and it’s done.
Oh, it’s so comforting to sip the matcha while sitting on the heated carpet, just admiring the view during the cold weather.
Finished with the tea, we take a stroll in the garden to visit Izumi Shinto Shrine, Inari Shrine, Statue of Lord Fujitaka Hosokawa and Tadatoshi Hasokawa and more.
A LOOK INTO NAGASAKI
After spending a night in Kumamoto, we continue west to the next destination, Nagasaki. The best way to get there from Kumamoto is by taking a ferry crossing Ariake Seato Shimabara city. Onboard, I get to feed the white seagulls flying alongside the ferry, which is the highlight of this cruise!
After an hour enjoying the sea breeze, we can finally see land again. Our guide directs us to the coach parked on the lowest deck of the ferry. We do not get to explore Shimabara as we are heading directly to Nagasaki city.
Nagasaki is a city with tragic history. It is one of the two places, aside from Hiroshima, which was affected by the American atomic bombings during World War II.
To know more about the history ofthe city’s devastating past, we head to the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum.
Our arrival at the museum is welcomed by a grey-haired Japanese woman, who is our guide. Despite her age, perhaps early 60s, she looks so radiant and healthy, and she speaks fluent English too! She is an English teacher and works part-time as a volunteer guide at the museum.
“Before we start our tour, you must be wondering why there are so many colourful paper cranes here, right?” She’s right, we are very curious about what this vibrant origami symbolises.
According to our guide, after the nuclear attack, many narrowly escaped death but suffered physical and psychological damage. One of them was a toddler named Sadako Sasaki. She was 2 when the bomb dropped near her home in Hiroshima. She survived, but when she was 11, she was diagnosed with acute malignant lymph gland leukaemia, which many call the “atomic bomb disease”.
She died soon after but before her death, she folded 1,000 origami cranes. According to legend, those who fold 1,000 origami cranes will be granted a wish by the gods.
To this day, it has become a symbol of the innocent victims of nuclear warfare.
We head downstairs to the exhibition. Opened in April 1996, the museum houses a number of artefacts related to the atomic bombing, and photographs show the leadup to the devastation on the tragic day. The history of the development of nuclear arms is also exhibited.
As we enter the area, the first thing I see is a broken wall clock. It was found in a house near Sannō Shinto Shrine in Sakamoto-machi, 800m from the hypocentre.
The clock was shattered in the blast and its hands stopped at 11.02 — the moment of explosion.
According to witnesses, it was a calm summer morning on Aug 9, 1945 when the bomb suddenly exploded over Nagasaki, just three days after the first atomic explosion in Hiroshima. A total of 73,884 people died and 74,909 people were injured on that day.
All the buildings in the area were completely burnt down. You can see the aftermath reproduction of Urakami Cathedral, one of the largest Catholic churches in East Asia at the time. Located 500m northeast of the hypocentre, it suffered almost complete destruction by the bomb and only some parts of the wall still remain standing.
There is also footage taken from the US aircraft which shows the moment of the atomic bomb exploded and the terrifying formation of the mushroom cloud. I can’t imagine how frightening it was then!
Visitors get to see a life-size model of the Nagasaki-type atomic bomb, the giant TNT called the Fatman, as well as other damage caused by it —a helmet with the remains of a skull, melted bottles, a charred lunch box with the schoolgirl’s name and class number written on the bottom, and more.
Gruesome photographs of the effects of the bombing at the museum leave me heartbroken. It’s really sad and depressing to know how war can ruin lives.
Nagasaki has led the world in calling for peace ever since.
For details on Fukuoka and Kyushu, visit www.jnto.org.my or JNTO’s Facebook page at www.facebook.com/visit.My.Japan
FAST FACTS
HOW TO GET THERE
AIRASIA X is the only airline that offers direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Fukuoka four times a week.
Fly in comfort with the Premium Flatbed, the spacious seat that reclines to become a full flatbed when desired. It also features a privacy screen, adjustable head and foot rest, as well as pillow and duvet for maximum comfort.
Those travelling on a Premium Flatbed enjoy 40kg baggage allowance, in-flight meal and entertainment, dedicated check-in counter, priority boarding as well as AirAsia Premium Red Lounge access in KLIA2.
AirAsia X is the first low cost carrier in the world to introduce flatbed seats, and at reasonable prices too!
Pictures by Hanna Hussein