Alan Teh Leam Seng discovers the best of the island in south Thailand
T
HE morning is postcard-perfect and even the tuk tuks and songtheaws public transportation vehicles are lined up in an orderly manner while waiting for passengers. The skyscrapers that dot the Hat Yai city centre landscape glisten in the morning sun while the cloudless sky provides an unbroken backdrop of blue.
It is the beginning of a wonderful day in the largest city in southern Thailand. I feel the excitement welling up while driving away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Heading in a north-easterly direction along Highway 407 that connects Hat Yai and Songkhla, I start to look forward to a fun-filled day at Ko Yor, a picturesque island that comes highly recommended by friends who have been there before.
A SHELTERED ISLAND
Ko Yor is connected to the mainland by the 2.6km-long Tinsulanon Bridge, which is the longest concrete bridge in Thailand. Completed in 1984 when Privy Council President Prem Tinsulanonda was Prime Minister, this bridge was named in his honour as he hailed from nearby Songkhla.
Tinsulanon Bridge consists of two main sections. A 940m-long span links the southeast of the island to Ban Nam Krachai in Songkhla while the longer 1.7 km section connects Ko Yor’s northern tip to Ban Khao Kheo in Singha Nakhon district.
Apart from the bridge, Ko Yor can also be accessed via ferry from Songkhla’s famed Samila Beach area. Those choosing this option often end up having the misconception that they are in for a rough ferry ride after noticing strong gales and angry waves while driving past Samila Beach to the ferry terminal.
It is pertinent to remember that unlike Samila Beach which is exposed to the full force of the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Yor is actually a sheltered island in the middle of Songkhla Lake. As a result, those taking the ferry are always assured of a smooth journey!
Songkhla Lake, which borders the provinces of Songkhla and Phatthalung, is the largest natural lake in Thailand. Despite being called a lake, this water feature is geologically considered a lagoon complex as its southern part opens up into the Gulf of Thailand via a very narrow 380m wide strait. It is here that the sea water from the gulf mixes with the lake’s freshwater, creating a unique ecosystem for brackish water organisms like fish and crustaceans to thrive in abundance.
Fishing is an important source of income here and the freshly caught aquatic life are supplied direct to the restaurants that dot the island as well as larger establishments in Hat Yai and Songkhla. There are many restaurants that offer a good selection of fresh seafood on Ko Yor, but I decide on something different by going on a tour of the fish farms organised by the Fishery Department.
Apart from the simple but deliciously fresh white snapper and prawn meal served by an enterprising farm operator, the visit offers a window into the life of the hardworking fisherfolk who depend on Songkhla Lake for their survival.
ANCIENT TEMPLE
One of the must-visit places in Ko Yor is the historic Wat Phranon Laem Po.
The back section of the temple’s colossal gold painted reclining Buddha comes into sight immediately after exiting the southern section of Tinsulanon Bridge. Entrance is free and there is ample parking space. However, be on the lookout for the specially designated entrance for cars and other private vehicles as there is one nearby specifically for large tourist buses.
The reclining statue is also called Nirvana Buddha as it depicts Buddha lying on his right-hand side on top of a resting table moments before dying one last time and entering Nirvana. His serene and restful facial expression indicates enlightenment and escape from the endless cycle of birth-death-rebirth.
Although this huge statue is a relatively new addition, Wat Phranon Laem Po itself is ancient. Built more than two centuries ago during the early Rattanakosin period by a highly venerated monk, this temple was visited by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1900 when he travelled to Ko Yor on his Royal Barge.
A quick walkabout in the vast temple grounds before leaving reveals quite a number of food stalls selling local snacks and titbits. The one selling something that resembles our local version of otak-otak wrapped in nipah palm leaves is the most popular. The grilled spicy fish cake tastes so good, especially when sampled at the side of Songkhla Lake that fringes Wat Phranon Laem Po.
PRESERVED COLLECTIONS
Leaving the temple and continuing to drive north, I soon arrive at Ban Ao Sai, home to the Southern Folklore Museum.
Opened in 1991, the museum is the largest of its kind in Thailand and comes under the purview of the Institute of Southern Thai Studies, a division of Bangkok’s Srinakharinwirot University.
Aimed to preserve and highlight the unique local culture, the museum has wide ranging exhibits that include religion, architecture, fabrics, pottery and other traditional arts. Housed in a complex of Thai-style pavilion houses, the vast collection of southern Thai artifacts are grouped into several sections like shadow play, ancient beads and traditional medicine.
Moving from one section to another involves quite a bit of climbing but the hard work pays off upon reaching the last section. The higher elevation provides spectacular views of the distant floating fish and seaweed farms on Songkhla Lake while the entire northern span of Tinsulanon Bridge serves as a captivating backdrop.
LOCAL HANDIWORK
Back on dry land, I take a leisurely drive around the island, starting with the shorefront and then deeper into the lonelier back roads. One advantage of driving on a small island like Ko Yor, with a total land area is just 15 sq km, is that there is very little chance of getting lost. In fact, opportunities abound where road maps can be set aside temporarily, and they often yield surprising results.
Spurred on by the captivating local landscape, the road eventually leads me to a quaint little village where I stop for a thirst quenching coconut drink. On the way back to the car, I am alerted to the clickety-clack sounds of people working on hand looms.
Following the sound like a trained bloodhound on a scent trail, I soon find myself at the doorstep of a fabric production centre which is one of the island’s most important cottage industries.
Ko Yor is well known in Thailand and throughout the world for producing hand-woven cloth with a delicate pattern known as ratchawat. The name of this unique motif was given by King Chulalongkorn more than a century ago. The motif resembles the neck of the peaceful dove, a native bird also found throughout Southeast Asia.
The locals on Ko Yor have been weaving cloth since the turn of the 19th century. Back then, they grew their own cotton plants to make yarn and dyed them in natural colours obtained from plant extracts. Apart from the ratchawat pattern, the enterprising artisans also created decorative designs inspired by the island’s unique flora and fauna.
Today, there are nine weaving cooperatives on Ko Yor that have clear objectives and regulations to help better the lives of the villagers. Due to scarcity of local resources, most weavers now use synthetic fibres and dyes. They work either at the cooperatives or from home using traditional fly shuttle looms.
Cloth produced in Ko Yor are certified by the Cooperative Promotion Department as a Songkhla OTOP (One Tambon, One Product) and the quality is guaranteed by the Thai Industrial Standard Institute.
While prices are set according to pattern complexity and style, weavers face problems related to expensive raw materials, unstable demand and lack of knowledge on native fabrics.
Among the measures put in place to spur this industry is the revival and restoration of the traditional styles that are now proving to be highly popular among connoisseurs.
To achieve this, older weavers are encouraged to pass on their knowledge to the younger generation through one-to-one teaching sessions.
TO THE MARKET
A van arrives just as I am about to leave. After watching boxes cloth being loaded, I am delighted to learn that the vendor is heading back to his stall at the Ko Yor market, which is just a stone’s throw from Wat Phranon Laem Po.
What a stroke of luck. Following his vehicle will save a lot of time and with the temple acting as a guiding beacon, finding the way back to my hotel in Hat Yai will be a piece of cake.
Ko Yor market is a draw for shoppers on the island. Among the more popular items are dried shrimp and pla ra, a type of fermented fish very much the same like our ikan pekasam. Also known as pla daek, the pla ra in Ko Yor is produced by fermenting fish harvested from Songhkla Lake with rice bran or roasted rice flour and salt. The mixture is left in a closed container for at least six months before it is ready to be consumed.
It is already late afternoon by the time I start heading back. The heat of the day has ebbed to a comforting warmth and the sunshine has lost most of its brilliance. Even the colours bouncing off Wat Phranon Laem Po have softened dramatically.
Casting my gaze a little further, I spy the last ferry chugging smoothly towards Songkhla. Today has been nothing short of amazing and I hope tomorrow, my last day here in south Thailand, will be just the same if not better.\
PICTURES BY ALAN TEH LEAM SENG
TRAVEL FILE
KO YOR ISLAND
HOW TO GET THERE
AirAsia flies direct from Kuala Lumpur (KLIA2) to Hat Yai International Airport. From the airport, takeapublic van to Ha Yaek Nam Krachai in Songkhla. Change to a red songthaew modified pickup truck and alight at the vehicle crossing at Tinsulanon Bridge. Motorcycle taxis are one of the best ways to get around Ko Yor. The other faster alternative is to rent a car.
WHERE TO STAY
There are no hotels on Ko Yor except for several homestay options scattered across the island. Most visitors prefer to stay in Hat Yai or Songkhla and visit the island just for the day. In Hat Yai, Centara Hotel is a popular choice (www.centarahotelsresorts.com)
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