THE tree-lined Peace Boulevard in Hiroshima offers me welcome respite from a strong October sun as I walk from my hotel, Mitsui Garden, to the Peace Memorial Park some 10 minutes away.
Like most visitors to the city, I am here to try and digest the cataclysmic events and consequences of World War II on this city. The Peace Memorial Park tells the story — through monuments and memorials, bridges, ruins, a museum, and even a few surviving trees — of that day, Aug 6, 1945 at 8.15am, when the Atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima City.
The park, an area of over 120,000 square metres which prior to the explosion had been a commercial hub called Nakajima district, today exudes a bucolic serenity.
The Motoyasu River flows alongside the park, carrying boatloads of tourists on cruises past the A-Bomb Dome, the only building which was not flattened, despite the bomb exploding almost above it. This building had been the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall at the time; everyone inside had died instantly.
Today, singing from a peace concert of sorts on the opposite bank of the river reaches my ears as I walk into the gutted Dome, its scarred outer frame painting a chilling and forlorn picture of nuclear devastation.
Known as Genbaku Dome in Japanese (genbaku meaning atomic bomb), it was listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site in December 1996. The river by it had, on that fateful day, been a refuge for nearby victims who leapt into the water in a desperate attempt to cool down their burning bodies.
As soft breezes play amongst the tree canopies, I visit the other monuments in the park: The Children‘s Peace Monument dedicated to the child victims, the Hiroshima Victims Memorial Cenotaph, the monument to poet Sankichi Toge who survived and became an advocate for peace, the Peace Flame that was lit in 1964 and continues to burn until the threat of nuclear annihilation is completely extinguished, the Peace Bells, the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall and more.
But nothing brings home the tragedy and anguish of the victims and survivors more poignantly than the exhibits, visuals and audios in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.
The letters, diaries, clothes, family photographs, school items, tiffin carriers... these everyday items of ordinary folk that “live“ on long after their owners have died torturous deaths. The visuals are graphic and very moving, (...and perhaps not suitable viewing for the very young).
MORE TO MODERN HIROSHIMA
There are of course less sombre dimensions to Hiroshima. For one, the city is a culinary paradise for gourmet food lovers, especially its seafood, in particular, oysters. The most famous pop culture food is to be found on Okonomi-mura (a four-minute walk from Mitsui Garden Hotel).
The Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki has legions of fans and the building I have mine in, Kazuchan, has four floors of outlets dedicated to this messy-looking food.
Historically, it seems that the crepe pancake with its foundation layers of cabbage, onion, bean sprouts and eggs kept the survivors post-Aug 6, 1945 from starving — a time when supplies were scarce and few could even afford to pay for a proper meal. I must confess, though, okonomiyaki will never make it to my personal list of favourite foods in Japan.
How to get there:
Hiroshima City is easily accessed by the Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka Station in Osaka. Visitors can use the Visit Hiroshima Tourist Pass and climb aboard the Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus from Hiroshima Station that goes past the main tourist sights. It has 16 stops. Other tourist attractions in Hiroshima include Hiroshima Castle, Shukkei-en Garden, the Shinto shrine called Itsukushima, the Mazda Museum and the Hiroshima Art Museum.
ANCIENT CHARMS
Takehara City, a little more than an hour by road from Hiroshima City, is a recommended attraction in Hiroshima Prefecture. Known as “Little Kyoto“ because of its ancient quarter that has well-preserved buildings dating back to the Edo period, this small city in the east sits amidst lush hills and very near the Seto Inland Sea coast.
Walking along the alleys of the ancient quarter, I find the low-roofed dwellings form an almost continuous line on both sides, interspersed with traditional cafes and cottage industries, some which offer workshops such as crafting mini windmills.
Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples sit on small hilltops or at junctions, while a cemetary covers one hillside. The little shops here are akin to mini Ali Baba caves filled with a hodgepodge of treasures — arty handmade clothes, purses, silks, home dècor items, curios, pottery and sake.
Takehara is famous for its breweries which use the clear fresh water from the many springs flowing from the hills. It is also known for salt manufacturing.
The old world pace of life here is to be envied. Far removed from the noise of the outside world (I come across only a sprinkling of tourists, unlike in Hiroshima City), it is picturesque and tranquil. Apparently period movies are sometimes filmed here for there are no overhead power lines or obvious signs of modern trappings.
I dine at Yusan Soba Noodle Shop, which is listed in the 2018 Michelin Guide. This little eatery, which seats only about 13, is manned by Mr Iwakawa, who is owner, cook and waiter.
As a Teac gramophone plays western classical music, I dig into the most delicious and authentic tasting soba noodles and tempura set I have ever had, costing just 1,550 yen (RM59). The handmade noodles are firm to the bite; the accompaniments of pickles, tofu, fragrant white pepper and chilli are all that is needed.
For dessert, I stride over to a small bakery and find it terribly hard to pick out just one item from the range of baked goodies filled with fresh cream and fruit.
How to get there:
Takehara is worth the trip out of Hiroshima city. It can also be accessed by Japan Rail‘s Shinkansen train (with one change to JR Kure Line). The old quarter is a 15-minute walk from Takehara Station.
FUNNY BUNNY
Just some 20 minutes away by road from Takehara lies the famed Rabbit Island, or Okunoshima. I board the ferry from the little harbour at Tadanoumi, and 11 minutes later I am on this small island, which is apparently only four kilometres in circumference. The main residents are cute wild rabbits, who have become so used to humans they don‘t startle easily. In fact, visitors can feed them.
My too-short visit on the island is spent walking along the walled parapet, just admiring the blue sea, the lighthouse, and the islands in the horizon. A cool wind is blowing and it looks and feels like an island out of a thriller movie. That is not too far off from the truth for there is much more to this rocky isle than meets the eye.
The remnants of the island‘s past still stand and can be visited. The island was used as a base for producing and testing poisonous gases during the World War and the „guinea pigs“ were rabbits. Today, a museum details this chapter of the island‘s history, while the ruins of the manufacturing facility can be seen, though entry is forbidden.
The island also has camping and sports facilities, a visitors centre and a small hotel. Those with the JR Kansai Hiroshima Area Five-Day Pass can board the Okunoshima Bus Tour.
CONNECTIONS AND SAVINGS —KLOOK & JR WEST TIE-UP
KLOOK, an award-winning online destination services platform, gives travellers a hassle-free way to discover and book attractions, tours, local transportation, must-eats, and unique experiences around the world on its website.
In collaborating with West Japan Railway Company (JR-West), a variety of travel activities have been enhanced, covering major cities. These selections below, booked via Klook, ensured my trip to Osaka, Okayama and Hiroshima Prefectures was seamless.
COMBO PACKAGES: These combine a JR-West Rail Pass with popular experiences. My chosen combo included entries to Universal Studios Japan, Harukas 300 Observatory, JR Kansai Hiroshima Area Pass — which grants me unlimited rides on the Sanyo Shinkansen, Express Trains, Rapid Services, and local trains for five consecutive days — and even the Okunoshima Bus Tour.
ROAMING MAN 4G GLOBAL POCKET WiFi: My e-vouchers from Klook were shown or sometimes exchanged for physical tickets using a strong, uninterrupted Internet connection. For this I have this WiFi device to thank. (Klook-ed at RM96 for seven days).
JR-WEST PASS: Access major cities in Kansai with a single rail pass that offers unlimited travel within the designated area, including rides on Kansai-Airport Express Haruka, the Rapid Services, local JR-West trains, and JR buses. You can now also redeem your JR Pass via the newly launched digital redemption machines.
ICOCA card: A smart card issued by JR-West which can be used also for journeys on the JR-West network of trains and subways, private railways and buses throughout Japan, though there are some exceptions. Also valid for shopping inside trains, vending machines, and select stores / restaurants.
MORE SAVINGS: Enjoy a discount when travelling in Western Japan by clicking on https://bit.ly/2VOrQSe. And check out the range of activities to include in your itinerary, visit www.klook.com/en-MY/.
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