From quaint temples and villages to tasty Korean fare and filming locales, Busan is a veritable tourist magnet. Loong Wai Ting has a list of must-see attractions
THE morning sun breaks through the dark clouds, emitting a red and orange glow when our plane makes its final descent into Gimhae International Airport in Busan, South Korea’s second largest city after Seoul in the north.
It’s winter and my teeth chatter because of the cold. The cold air hits me the moment I step out of the small airport.
From here, there are a few ways to get to the city. I opt for the cheapest and most convenient way: the Metro, one of the most reliable modes of transportation in the port city that is located in the southeastern region of the Korean peninsula.
With two transfers, using the Metro to get into the heart of Busan only takes 40 minutes and KW2,000 (RM7), a small sum compared to taking a taxi which can cost as much as KW20,000.
Fifteen stops later, I arrive at Jungang Station, the nearest station from my hotel, Tower Hill Busan Hotel.
Like Seoul, Busan’s subway system can be a little confusing for first-timers. There are multiple exits in the same station, so it’s important to know which side of the street you want to get to. Some stations have an underground passage so you don’t have to cross busy intersections.
Thankfully, my hotel is not too far from the subway station. It sits on the foothill of Yongdusan with the Busan Tower in the background. The hotel may not be a luxury property but it wins my points for its location.
All the shopping action and attractions such as the BIFF Square for its street food, Jagalchi Market for fresh seafood and Gukje Market for all things trendy are located within walking distance.
TEMPLE BY THE CLIFF
A quick rest later, I set out to explore Busan. Before arriving in the city, I had already downloaded Naver Map (the local equivalent of Google Maps) app as well as the Korea Subway app into my mobile phone.
The first on my list is Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, a temple perched on a rocky cliff on the north-eastern side of Busan city.
From the Jungang station, I take the subway to Haeundae Station before catching a bus to the temple.
Getting off at the Yonggungsa Temple bus stop, I follow a group of visitors and walk the winding road up to the main entrance. Admission to the temple is free.
A sign declaring it as “the most beautiful temple in Korea” is nailed to the arch entryway of the temple.
Along the path to the temple, there are hawkers and stalls selling fresh produce like seasonal vegetables and seafood, souvenirs and snacks such as tteokbokki (rice cake in spicy sauce), eomuk (fish cake in soup) and hotteok (Korean sweet pancakes).
The green and red tiles on the roof stand out in the afternoon light. Formerly known as Bomun Temple, the original temple built during the Goryeo dynasty was destroyed by the Japanese in 1592. It was rebuilt in the 1930s and renamed Haedong Yonggungsa.
The temple is surrounded by nature. As the temple sits on a rocky cliff facing the sea, you’ll get an expansive view of the beautiful shore line. Occasionally you’ll see fishing boats passing by the area.
On the first day of the new year, locals gather around the temple to catch the first sunrise and offer prayers at the main hall.
From the main entrance, I follow the rocky steps, carved out of huge stones by its builders.
In order to get to the other side of the temple’s main entrance, I walk on the stone bridge that seems to rise from the sea.
The main temple hall sits in the centre of the cliff, flanked by smaller halls on each side. A souvenir shop sits further away from the main hall, where various handmade products and praying paraphernalia are sold.
VILLAGE TO VILLAGE
Next on my list is Hocheon Village. From the temple, it takes about an hour by bus and train.
Just like its counterpart Gamcheon Culture Village, Hocheon boasts similar set up: Colourful tiny homes with tight alleyways, steep stairs and great spots for photography.
The lesser known Hocheon Village came into the spotlight after the hit South Korean television series, Fight For My Way, starring heartthrob Park Seo-Joon and Kim Ji-Won, was shot there.
Since the series ended in late 2017, fans of the series have been making their way to the filming site to take photos at the famous Namil Bar, which turns out to be the rooftop of someone’s home.
Not far from the Namil Bar is the Hansung Apartment Buildings, where the main characters in the series live across from each other.
The green-and-peach colour building is hard to miss even from afar.
From a distance, the building, built to resemble a flight of stairs, stands out from the rest of the green-and-blue houses that sit on lower ground.
Compared to Gamcheon, Hocheon has lesser crowds and naturally lesser shops, cafes or restaurants. The nearest cafe is about 10 minutes away by bus.
From Hocheon, I drop by Gamcheon Cultural Village by bus for a cup of coffee at a rooftop cafe. I take a stroll in the neighbourhood. Gamcheon has definitely changed a lot since my last visit about three years ago.
Once a quiet village, Gamcheon is bustling with touristy activities now. There are more shops selling souvenirs and local snacks. Cafes that are fashioned out of former homes have sprung up at every corner, serving delicious handcrafted coffee and beverages.
PARK ON AN ISLAND
A must-see in Busan, Taejongdae Park is on my list.
From my hotel, I walk towards the Yeongdodaegyo Bridge which is located on the hotel’s east side to take a bus towards Yeongdo Island. The park sits on the island’s southernmost tip, about 40 minutes by bus away.
There are various buses that ply the route towards the island but make sure you take either bus 66, 88 or 101. These three buses stop right at the Taejongdae food street. From the food street, the park is easily accessible by foot.
Admission to the park is free. To get back to the city, just take the bus from the bus stop across the street.
The food street that leads to the park looks deserted at first. But as soon as I exit the bus, food vendors from both sides of the street rush out from their restaurants with menu ready in their hands.
Every restaurant seems to be selling the same thing: grilled fish (a specialty in this area), spicy kimchi soup and japchae, which are stir-fry glass noodles in seasonal vegetables.
I make a mental note of the restaurants and promise to drop by after my sightseeing at Taejongdae Park later.
Just off the main road, there is a row of needle pine trees, their limbs big and strong as they reach for the sky. Some of these trees are a couple of hundred years old.
The air smell different here as well — it’s sweet, refreshing and a little uplifting as well.
The park is mostly surrounded by forest with towering trees and a blooming garden. Its beautiful coast stretches out across the expanse of the park with many lookout points, offering views of the city in the far-off horizon.
On a good day, you can even see Japan’s Tsushima Island from the observatory by the cliff.
There are also a couple of small temples. Hikers, mostly local retirees, visit the park in groups before taking a rest at the famous Yeongdo Lighthouse. I am told that in warmer months, families with young children pack the park.
The best way to enjoy the scenery is by taking the Danubi train that goes on a 4km loop road around the park (KW3,000 for adults and KW1,500 for kids).
But if you enjoy a slow walk, just follow the main trail until you reach the Yeongdo Lighthouse.
HOW TO GET THERE
A port city, Busan is a seaside gem, a place teeming with undisturbed nature, hot springs, temples, quaint villages and cheap seafood.
If you’re in Seoul, it’s just 2.5 hours away via the KTX (their high-speed train system). From Kuala Lumpur, Busan is only 6.5 hours via AirAsia X direct flight.
Getting around Busan is as simple as it is in Seoul. You can travel to any nook and cranny as it has an extensive subway and city bus systems. Also, it’s cheaper compared to hailing a taxi.
EASY ACCESS TO ATTRACTIONS
TWO key factors are important to me when I travel — easy connectivity and convenience. Tower Hill Hotel Busan has both.
Though it’s further from Busan’s city centre, the hotel provides easy access to all the city’s hotspots.
Checking in at the hotel is easy as all the necessary bookings have been done online.
I arrive at the hotel way before the check-in time. A friendly hotel staff who speaks perfect English offers to take my luggage and place it under her care. I can then explore Busan without any worry.
Back to the hotel. Tucked behind a row of shops on the main Jung-Gu street, the hotel proves to be a challenge to find at first.
Thankfully, a friendly ajushi (uncle) is there to help. But instead of pointing out directions, he leads me all the way to the hotel.
The modern-looking hotel has a light brown facade. There’s a cafe on the left, where guests staying at the hotel get to enjoy 10 per cent off the total bill. On the right is the hotel’s only restaurant.
A small lift takes me to the third floor where my room is located. All rooms are equipped with the basic necessities such as a fridge. Inside are bottles of mineral water which are replenished every day. Bathroom amenities are also provided by the hotel. There’s even a bath tub!
The bed is firm and I get a good night’s sleep. My room faces the street below so it can get quite noisy, especially at night.
Overall, I love that it is convenient to get around from here.
While the hotel doesn’t have a specialty restaurant, there are plenty of food options available around the property.
There’s convenience store just across the street and restaurants selling affordable set meals around the hotel. If you’re looking for authentic hansik (Korean meal), you’re in the right place.
FAST FACTS
TOWER HILL HOTEL BUSAN
20, Baeksan-Gil, Jung-Gu, Busan, South Korea
TEL +82 51-243-1001
WEBSITE https://tower-hill.busanhotelsweb.com/en/
Sitting in a prime location in Busan city, this three-star hotel offers quick access to all the tourist hotpots such as Jagalchi Market, Gukje Market, BIFF Square and Yongdusan Park — all within walking distance. This 116-room property is also easily accessible by train.
There’s a cafe called Caffeinated adjacent to the hotel, where guests get to enjoy 10 per cent off the bill. There’s also a restaurant within the hotel lobby but breakfast is not inclusive for most rooms.
DO Swim at the rooftop pool on warmer months or grab a book and a cup of coffee at Caffeinated.
Shop at the various markets around the hotel or admire the scenery at Yongdusan Park (behind the hotel).
HIGHS Location
LOWS Breakfast is not inclusive
Pictures by Loong Wai Ting