ROSSMAN Ithnain breaks into a wide grin after I exit the Paya Lebar MRT station. Although it has been nearly a decade since we became friends, our common interest in local history and the rich culture shared by Malaysia and Singapore, as well as nearby nations that make up the Nusantara, help ensure that there is always something new to share each time we meet up.
With just days left before Hari Raya Aidil Fitri, the place is a hive of activity, with shoppers taking advantage of the prevailing festive mood to soak in the atmosphere while seeking out bargains on pricey imported clothing as Ramadan comes to an end and Syawal beckons.
ENDURING LEGACY
Rossman, however, is on an entirely different mission today. A strong supporter of locally made products and eager to prevent dying arts from disappearing, he grabs every opportunity to support home-based artisans by putting their inspirational creations to good use and promoting them to like-minded friends on social media.
Our late afternoon sojourn is extra special as Rossman leads the way to the person said to be the last songkok maker in Singapore. Leaving the MRT station, we continue tracing Paya Lebar Road after making a brief stop at the historic Masjid Wak Tanjong, which seamlessly blends Anglo-Indian bungalow architecture with traditional Malay kampung typology.
We arrive at City Plaza after making a left turn into Geylang Road. At first glance, Haji Abdul Wahab Abdullah's shop looks just like its neighbouring outlets on Level 2. It is only upon entry that the songkok maker's enduring legacy as a leading Singapore Malay heritage flagbearer becomes evident.
The origin of this enterprise can be traced all the way back to the 1970s, when Abdul Wahab's father made the fateful decision to abandon his job as a trishaw rider and set up shop making songkok. Although there were already quite a number of similar tradesmen in Geylang Serai at that time, the father-and-son team remained steadfast and received a strong following for their well-made songkok, which carried the trishaw trademark.
END OF AN ERA
Despite enjoying brisk business in the following decades, the number of songkok makers in Singapore began to decline when more affordable selections that are mass produced abroad began making their presence felt. Even with various forms of generous assistance from the government, most songkok makers found the uphill battle for survival too steep to surmount and decided to close shop.
While packing Rossman's commission, Abdul Wahab announces sadly that his shop will also shutter by the time Hari Raya Aidilfitri comes around next year. Apart from mounting costs, the cyclical demand for songkok no longer made it practical for him to have a physical shop. All is not lost, however, as he intends to work from home and harness the power of the Internet to continue his trade for as long as possible.
Eager to share the interesting story of Geylang Serai's development into the bustling and well-planned township today, Rossman brings me to the nearby Wisma Geylang Serai. Serving as Singapore's first-ever cultural and heritage integrated hub, the design of this sprawling complex draws inspiration from various traditional elements, including ʻserai' fronds, folded ʻketupat' leaves and the Malay house ʻserambi', or verandah. Together, they amplify Geylang Serai's distinctive identity and strengthen its unique urban character.
Venturing indoors, the installations and displays at the Geylang Serai Heritage Gallery serve as reminders of the locale's origin as one of the oldest Malay settlements in Singapore. Already densely populated by the early 20th century, Geylang Serai residents enjoyed cosmopolitan lifestyles and already had a sophisticated worldview through their progressive employment in government, shipping and journalism.
By the early 1980s, Housing and Development Board flats, industrial estates of light industries and modern shopping complexes began making their appearance. As Geylang Serai embraced modernisation, timely measures were also taken by the authorities to preserve the Malay cultural heritage. A one-hectare Malay Village site bordering Sims Avenue, Geylang Serai and Geylang Road was established and maintained until this very day.
BATIK CRUSADER
Apart from housing a wide selection of premium retail and prominent food outlets, Wisma Geylang Serai is home to budding and established artisans who maintain galleries and organise workshops to promote various traditional Malay art forms.
Among these skilled masters is versatile painter Kamal Dollah, who works across a variety of artistic disciplines. Ever curious about batik, his early years involved studies in traditional batik printing and its role in various contemporary art practices.
Working from his batik resource centre, Kamal Arts Studio, on Wisma Geylang Serai's fourth floor, he draws inspiration from prominent batik artists like Sarkasi Said, Sujak Rahman, Tumadi Patri and Sadali Musbah to come up with the Community Batik project, which aims to inspire and empower members of the public through communal art co-creation.
Our exciting cultural escapade comes to an end at the Geylang Serai Market and Food Centre, where Rossman's choice of ʻnasi padang' to break fast serves as an apt Nusantara culinary choice enjoyed by people from a wide variety of racial backgrounds. While feasting on ʻsambal petai', fried ʻparu belado' and chicken rendang, we marvel at the festive lights lining the streets. The Hari Raya mood is definitely in the air.