Looking admirable yet very serious in their distinctive white jackets, white hats and white aprons, they stand on the cusp of victory, having survived a gruelling three days of tasks that tested their skills in every way.
Each person is fervently hoping for their name to be called out so that they may earn the professional right to wear that blue, white and red striped collar, recognised throughout the whole of France as a sign of great prestige.
Grown men have been known to shed tears at this huge nationwide competition. Tears of frustration when an incredulous gravity-defying sculpture collapses and smashes on the floor right before the judges.
Tears of immense joy when their name is announced as a recipient of the title Un Des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF), which means “one of the best craftsmen in France”. “It’s terrible… very stressed because you have many judges. It’s so, so hard,” recalls a previous French participant in the pastry-making category.
“When you finally get the title, it’s crazy. Everybody had the good emotions. When you finish, you’re completely tired, empty, and everybody is crying (happy tears) because it’s a very prestigious title. You can’t imagine.”
That participant was bestowed the title MOF in 1993, the ultimate recognition of his craft as a pastry master, and he, in fact all winners, can carry that title for life.
As he sits across the table from me in a black chef’s jacket, MOF Chef Jean-Michel Perruchon appears to be in need of a good night’s sleep.
If it’s not jet lag, then the stifled yawns must also be the result of being on his feet all day teaching a group of young Malaysians how to make classic and restaurant French desserts as part of their advanced diploma course.
His packed three-day stint as guest instructor comes upon the invitation of Ecole de Patisserie, a school of culinary arts and pastry in Damansara Perdana, Kuala Lumpur that regularly arranges training by master chefs from overseas.
RISING PASTRY MASTER
Class is over for the day, allowing me some time to chat with the obliging chef.
“My philosophy at the moment is to give all my secrets to the younger talents and professionals,” confides the 56-year-old who travels globally to share his pastry know-how and experience.
Generous with knowledge, training became his calling 30 years ago when he was given the opportunity to co-establish a pastry school in Paris with his friend, G.J. Bellouet, whose retirement has since put his business partner in charge of the school.
Back then, Perruchon had already accumulated over a decade’s worth of skills and experience at several pastry shops in France including illustrious Parisian ones such as Fauchon and Lenotre, while building a reputation through awards and prizes achieved at gastronomy competitions.
Within four years of setting up Ecole Gastronomique Bellouet Conseil, Perruchon embarked on possibly his final competition, the exclusive Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) that every French pastry chef or craftsperson dreams of winning.
Those who don’t succeed can try again in three or four years when the contest is held again. However, sometimes those extra chances can achingly slip through one’s hands.
“Somebody tried 3-4 times… still didn’t get it,” recalls Perruchon sympathetically.
In his heavily-accented English, the congenial Frenchman who hails from Brittany explains how candidates need to first prove themselves professionally rather than charge into the MOF’s demanding conditions riding on ambition while still being fairly green in the industry.
“If you go directly, it’s impossible because nobody knows you. You need to have the respect from the people and also, to get the title you need to train for the competition — not just arrive there.”
Perruchon ensured he entered with a good chance of winning.
“On paper, you prepare three years before but it’s not the reality. You prepare for MOF when you start the apprenticeship because that’s when you learn the Danish, the chocolate, the macarons, everything. If you don’t know how to do all these, it’s impossible to do them perfectly.”
Besides having to flawlessly craft numerous dessert masterpieces ranging from entremets (layered mousse-based cakes) and individual cakes to petit fours and artistic sugary showpieces within three days, each candidate is also evaluated on factors such as their chosen methods, organisation skills, technical skills, speed, creativity and the knowledge of modern and traditional techniques. The slightest mistake could be costly or catastrophic, like an ill-timed sneeze.
Perruchon couldn’t have imagined at the tender age of 11 that when he began his apprenticeship with his pastry chef neighbour, he would one day author 21 books on desserts, earn the MOF title, and subsequently return as one of the judges in this year’s 26th edition.
HONOURING CRAFTSMANSHIP
It’s not just pastry-making or food-related occupations that can participate and receive an MOF recognition but also an incredibly diverse range of trades.
About a century ago before the First World War, France faced a dwindling number of traditional craftsmen so in an attempt to reverse the crisis and revive professional excellence among those with technical or manual skills, an exhibition of good craftsmanship was conceptualised. The inaugural multi-disciplinary competition of MOF was launched in 1924.
Today, participants are represented in 17 sectors encompassing more than 230 professions.
From fishmongers, florists and furniture makers to architectural, agricultural and automotive trades, craftsmanship is alive and thriving in this European nation, resulting in more and more ‘Made in France’ ambassadors.
The competition also serves as an examination that awards successful candidates a state diploma by the Ministry of Education, a qualification that’s regarded in their industry as higher than the Masters level.
So far, less than 10,000 people can call themselves one of the Best Craftsmen in France.
The MOF title is taken very seriously. Anyone falsely wearing the esteemed tri-coloured striped collar can be punished under the law. Even within the pastry-making circle, the French take their baked goods so seriously that the term patisserie can only legally be used by bakeries that employ a licensed maitre patissier (pastry master).
RESPECT AND RESULTS
Dusk sets over Petaling Jaya and the sleek modern kitchen at Ecole de Patisserie is finally peaceful now that the students have taken their youthful buzz with them – until they return the next day. I’ve noticed a plate nearby on which sits something resembling a shiny piece of pastry yet I can’t be sure.
Putting the distraction aside, I ask Perruchon which is the most difficult pastry to make.
“The croissant. It’s very difficult to do. Look…” At which point he brings over the aforementioned plate and on it sits the most symmetrical raspberry croissant I’ve ever seen, wrapped in beautiful brown and red layers.
He continues in his matter-of-fact way: “This is important. The layers. You need to roll the croissant little by little. If you roll too much, you don’t have the layers like this.”
Laborious but not impossible, French pastry-making requires attention to detail, dedication and consistency, among other things.
“If the recipe says 50g, it’s 50g. If you have to turn three times for the croissant, you turn three times. If you don’t respect the scale, the temperature, the work and everything, you don’t get the results,” explains the respected pastry advisor.
Continuing, he says: “Seriousness is important because all the jobs are like this. The younger ones find it so hard to wake up in the morning and the day is very long. Sometimes you cannot stop work at 4pm because the croissants are still in the oven.”
He adds that passion and respect are also important qualities.
The thought of a crescent-shaped flaky buttery pastry freshly out of the oven wafts through my mind, prompting a rumble from the stomach.
Just a couple of hours earlier, I was happily engrossed in thoughts of chocolate mousse and macarons as Perruchon demonstrated his techniques.
“Mix the meringue only at 40 degrees,” he had stressed to the students while checking the food thermometer.
Technique seems important (like baking macarons on double-stacked trays) or do the ingredients matter the most?
“It depends on what you want. If you give the same ingredients but not the recipe, or not exactly the secret of the recipe, you have approximately the same taste but you have two different results. Which is important: ingredients or techniques? Both!”
Perruchon explains further that without great ingredients, you don’t get the desired result.
“All is important. But if you want to know the difference between two pastry makers, it’s the techniques because they can use the same ingredients but get different results.”
On the third and last day of the student course, the results of all the whipping, mixing, cutting, piping, glazing and baking make their grand appearance in all their glistening glory.
The rows upon rows of croissants, brioches and petits gateaux (individual cakes) take centre stage, and not forgetting the artfully-arranged plated desserts. Some shimmer and shine decadently like jewels. Others entice me with their crunchy, flaky exterior. A few seem too delicate and refined to touch. But they all look exquisite and worthy of display in an art gallery as if crafted by talented artisans.
My hosts kindly offer me some multi-layered individual cakes such as the bright yellow Passionfruit and Mango Cheesecake Finger. The flavours and the artistry don’t escape me. The desserts are divine. Seriously.
Ecole De Patisserie (School of Pastry & Culinary Arts) is in Damansara Perdana, Selangor. Call 012-308 6362 or log on to www.ecole.com.my. For more details on Gourmet School Bellouet Conseil in Paris, France, go to www.ecolebellouetconseil.com