“WITH or without raw egg?” poses drinks stall owner Cindy Tan when I request for a cup of coffee. Noticing my perplexed expression and lack of response to her question, Cindy patiently explains that some regular customers like to have the unusual addition in their morning cuppa as an additional pick-me-up. “This is an old-school drink that’s still enjoyed by many,” she adds.
The third generation operator, who runs the popular 33 Cafe with two of her brothers, bursts into a wide grin when I agree to her suggestion out of curiosity. She starts by breaking a fresh egg into a glass cup before pouring boiling water until the half way mark. The mixture is stirred thoroughly to ensure that the egg is well cooked. What follows is the standard process of adding pre-prepared coffee concentrate and sugar until the cup is filled to the brim.
As Cindy moves away to serve new arrivals, my conversation shifts to her younger brother who has just returned from delivering drinks. It’s the peak hour for breakfast at the Tiong Bahru Food Centre and the place is a hive of activity. Nearly every table is filled with people from all walks of life and that translates into an endless stream of orders for drinks.
Taking a breather while his elder brother assumes the delivery role, Tan Meng Teck brings me back to the turn of the 20th century when his grandmother and her sister first arrived in Malaya after an arduous sea journey from China. The duo first settled in Ipoh before deciding to move south to Singapore.
INTRIGUING TALE
My unique beverage turns out to be the perfect accompaniment while listening to Meng Teck’s intriguing tale. The extra egg ingredient makes a world of difference, making the coffee significantly creamier and more aromatic. There’s definitely a sense of nostalgia when sipping the very version of drink that came into fruition as a result of the circumstances that occurred so many years ago in this part of Malaya.
“Unlike today, life in the past was a constant struggle for the common folk and unemployment was high. Several years after the Second World War, my grandmother, who already tied the knot by then, decided to set up a stall selling drinks at the Seng Poh Road Market to help her husband make ends meet. Back then, egg was one of the cheapest sources of protein and it was easiest consumed when incorporated into hot beverages like coffee and Milo,” explains Meng Teck.
Completed and opened on Jan 21, 1951, Seng Poh Road Market suffered many teething problems. There were not enough stalls in the simple wooden building with zinc pitched roof to meet the overwhelming demand. Those who were left out resorted to setting up illegal stands within the perimeter.
Competition for prime spots often led to quarrels and altercations when the market grew into a popular eating spot for people from all over Singapore. Things only started to look up in the 1970s when hawker licensing was introduced. By then, the market had become an integral part in the lives of the locals.
CHILDHOOD MEMORIES
Drawing a deep breath as he recalls his childhood days, Meng Teck shares that he used to run down the road to an Indian shop to collect coconut husk. “We got the discards practically for free and used them as fuel to boil water. That helped to bring down costs,” he recalls before saying that subsequent fuel regulations prompted the change to kerosene. By the late 1980s, the fuel of choice was liquefied petroleum gas (LPG).
Glancing at my watch as Meng Teck returns to his work, I suddenly realise that the hour is up and it’s time to re-join the other group members who are part of Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel’s Live Like A Local campaign. Tiong Bahru Food Centre is the first stop and if the other places along the heritage walking tour are just as interesting, then the half day adventure to experience the sights, tastes and sounds like locals is surely going to be nothing short of amazing.
Happening every Saturday from December 2018, this year-long treat is open to the hotel’s international and local staycation guests. Apart from immersing in the seamless blend of contemporary and traditional elements of charming Tiong Bahru, guests can also enhance their experience by participating in the monthly in-house activities that takes place on the first Saturday of each month. These pursuits are curated according to the various local cultural festivals.
FOOD GALORE
Our cheery and knowledgeable guide, Faridah Fatah is all ears when our reassembled group begins rattling off names of local culinary delights, including chwee kueh (steamed rice cakes with preserved turnips), min jiang kueh (traditional peanut butter pancake), you tiao (Chinese fried churros) and even the traditional kaya butter toast. Faridah gives me the thumbs up after hearing about my coffee experience.
While leading us past the ground level market section, Faridah explains that the biggest change took place in 2004 when the market and food centre were closed for two years to make way for a new two storey building equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, including lifts and escalators. Upon reaching the sidewalk, she draws our attention to the Art Deco facade which complements the surrounding estate, which is reputed to be the oldest in the country.
After a short walk, we arrive at Seng Poh Garden, a quiet little landscaped area located along a road that shares the same name. It’s home to the Dancing Girl sculpture, Tiong Bahru’s only piece of public work of art. Made by Sarawak-born Lim Nang Seng, who was also the creator of the iconic Merlion sculpture, this metre-high concrete carving depicts a maiden performing a joyful harvest dance.
Lim’s creation received conflicting reviews when it was unveiled in time for the 1972 National Day celebrations. Some residents loved it while others thought it was too abstract and looked more like a swan about to take flight. The sculptor remained unperturbed by the alternative interpretation. In response, Lim advocated that swans were auspicious birds that would surely bring bountiful prosperity to all residents of the estate!
LOVELORN MISTRESSES
Leaving the tranquil oasis behind, we start encountering quaint conserved flats with five-foot ways in the front and spiral staircases that double as fire escapes at the opposite end. Faridah tells us that some of these units were used by wealthy businessmen and tycoons to house their mistresses during the 1950s. These women were primarily cabaret dancers and pipa girls who worked at the Great World Amusement Park. Through them, this part of Tiong Bahru gained notoriety as Mei Ren Wo (Den of Beauties) or Er Nai Chun (Mistress Village).
Although the entertainment centre and its ladies of the night have long slipped into the pages of history, that doesn’t deter me from looking up and picturing a tragic love story of a lonely woman waiting in vain for her lover’s return while sitting all day by an open window overlooking the busy street below.
“We’re making a move. Better keep up or you’ll be left behind,” Faridah’s remark jolts me back to reality. A few quick steps later and I’m up to speed with the rest who have started making their way into Tiong Bahru’s smaller and quieter side streets. While making occasional stops, Faridah slowly nudges us towards a trip down memory lane.
She employs the help of several walk-through heritage-themed wall murals to enable us to fully understand Tiong Bahru’s colourful and interesting past. The colourful and creative work of artist Yip Yew Chong spans a broad spectrum and draws inspiration from the decades of warm experiences that Singapore’s grand dame of neighbourhoods has given its residents.
SINGING BIRDS
Among the more popular ones is the Bird Singing Corner mural located at Block 71, Seng Poh Lane. Created in March 2016, the images of bird cages and their owner uncles sipping coffee perfectly capture the deeply-felt nostalgia related to one of the most commonly thought-of scenes in this area.
The original location of this bygone scene is actually beside the current Link Hotel. In recent history, the hotel attempted to revitalise this activity but efforts were eventually abandoned after realising that nearly all of the owners and their pets have long left Tiong Bahru.
When conceptualising the mural, Yip was wary of public backlash as it could be perceived as promoting the captivity of birds. The artist was caught between upholding his values and self-censorship. After much deliberation, Yip decided to proceed with his plan. He strongly felt that the scene was an indelible part of Tiong Bahru’s culture and history.
A little further down the narrow side street is an old-school upholstery business that’s nearly half a century old. Bursting at its seams with stacks of sofas and car seats, bales of cloth, tools of all shapes and sizes as well as two antique sewing machines sitting on an unpolished concrete floor, Yong Huat bears a stark contrast to the polished facades of newer establishments in the vicinity.
Founded by Tay Meow Quee in 1969, the company provides services for homes and businesses all over Singapore. Each commissioned item is painstakingly worked by hand. The measurements, cutting to size, stitching and fitting are all done using old-fashioned tools. It’s not unusual for the skilled workers to take an entire day to completely refurbish a single piece of furniture.
MONKEY DEITY
Bidding farewell to the industrious artisans, we retrace our steps back to Tiong Bahru Road before walking past two traffic junctions to reach Tiong Poh Road, home of the first Qi Tian Gong or Monkey God Temple in Singapore. Established in 1920, the original location of the temple was in a small attap hut located within a taro garden on Eng Hoon Street. It moved to this current location in 1938.
Dedicated to the resourceful and mercurial Monkey King Sun Wu Kong, locals throng the temple to seek divine blessings and protection, eliminate bad luck, gain prosperity and longevity. The deity, who’s believed to be able to identify true and false as well as assist the poor and needy, is deeply respected and loved by many generations of followers.
The penultimate stop for the morning turns out to be a nyonya kuih paradise. Established before the Second World War, family-owned Tiong Bahru Galicier Pastry has a history that spans four generations. We’re spoilt for choice when given the opportunity to select our favourites at this shop located along Tiong Bharu Road.
There’s a story behind each of the freshly made retro cakes, traditional cookies and pastries sold, says Faridah. Listening to her elaborate descriptions while tucking into my dadar gulung (sweet coconut pancake) help to further my understanding of the rich food heritage of the Peranakans.
We bid farewell to Tiong Bahru and take away with us memories of a place full of soul and character. This haven bears testament that Singapore isn’t just another generic modern city and there are still places that have managed to withstand the tide of change and retain their charming ways of yesteryears.
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