“KANYAO durians may be the most famous in Thailand but our local Monthong variety is equally good in terms of taste, texture and aroma,” quips Phloensak Phromsook, bringing his Vietnam War-era Willys jeep to a gradual halt on a grassy patch by the roadside.
While covering the short distance to a wooden makeshift stall selling a variety of local fruits, the Sai Khao native continues with his personal publicity blitz to highlight the many favourable attributes of the King of Fruits found in southern Thailand.
Drawing a contrast between the astronomical prices at the King Of Durians festival earlier this month and the down-to-earth valuations in this rustic village, Phromsook says: “A buyer paid 1.5 million baht (RM198,852) for a single durian in Nonthaburi, but further down south, about 1,000 kilometres away, fruits of comparable quality are sold for much, much less.”
Phromsook reveals that several Monthong saplings originating from Nonthaburi were brought here nearly a century ago.
The local farmers at the time were elated beyond words when the pioneer batch began to flourish after a brief period of getting used to the warmer southern climate.
ANCIENT VOLCANIC REGION
While waiting for the vendor to select the best in his pile for us, Phromsook shifts his attention to the nearby foothills covered with verdant rainforest.
He surprised me with information that Sai Khao was once a submerged volcanic area that saw frequent and violent underwater eruptions. The sulphur-rich seabed eventually became fertile dry land when tectonic plate movements lifted this entire region out of the water millions of years ago.
Inviting me to sample a freshly opened Monthong durian on our table, Phromsook uses the thickness of his index finger to demonstrate that the local variety has a much thinner skin compared to those found in other parts of the kingdom.
This attribute apparently helps to ripen the fruit evenly and makes the texture almost as smooth as vanilla butter.
Over the next half an hour, I indulge in what must be one of the best durian eating experiences in my life. The fruits, collected early in the morning after dropping on their own sometime during the night, are fresh and sticky with a slight hint of toffee or caramel undertones and a bitter aftertaste.
Apart from the Monthong variety, we also get the opportunity to savour other lesser known but equally prized durian variants like Kop Lep Yao, Chai Ma Fai, Kop Med Tao, Kampang Daeng and Chat Si Nak.
When asked to name my favourite, my choice of a small, inconspicuous-looking durian makes Phromsook break into a wide grin.
He concurs that the fruit, with its light, delicate texture and taste that’s both creamy and not overbearingly sweet, is a worthy winner.
“You have the tastebuds of a durian connoisseur! Your choice belongs to one of our rare local varieties that has been growing in Sai Khao for centuries, long before the first saplings from Nonthaburi made their appearance. This particular one comes from one of the oldest durian trees in all of Pattani,” he claims.
ROYAL INITIATIVE
Overlooked in the past as farmers focused their attention on the more famous names from Nonthaburi, local varieties received a shot in the arm back in 2011 when Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn called on durian cultivators all over the country to preserve their original heirloom varieties.
The princess, known for her extensive work in promoting sustainability and agricultural education in Thailand, hopes that the active participation of local farmers in this initiative will secure the future for Thai durians by helping to maintain diversity, invigorate the local gene pool and improve genetic variation.
Heading back to the jeep after having eaten our fill, I sit back and enjoy the ride as Phromsook traces the lonely country road to his next destination.
Along the way, the sight of another similar ex-military vehicle like ours calls to mind the presence of some 50,000 American military forces in Thailand during the early 1960s.
During the Vietnam War, the United States, which supported the South Vietnam government, were given use of Thai air and naval bases.
Due to its close proximity to the conflict zone, Thailand became the third-largest provider of ground forces after the Americans and South Koreans.
About 40,000 Thai military personnel served in South Vietnam where 351 were reportedly killed in action while another 1,358 wounded.
The last group of Thai ground forces withdrew on Feb 5, 1972, some three years before the fall of the South Vietnam government.
These jeeps, which are still kept in good working order today by dedicated people like Phromsook, were left behind by the Americans when the war ended and sold via auctions by the Thai military.
Leaving the picturesque Sangkalakhiri mountain foothills and their productive fruit orchards behind, we soon arrive at what’s considered as the Sai Khao village centre made up of a cluster of low density timber-concrete homes built around several public buildings.
Stopping in front of the majestic-looking Masjid Bankuanlangnga, Phromsook briskly leads the way to an adjacent building which is a more-than-a-century-old madrasah.
Curiously, the air becomes thicker with the now familiar smell of ripe Monthong durians as we get closer to the religious school.
BENEFITS OF THE COLLECTIVE
“When in season, the Sai Khao Durian Collective uses a small portion of this place to temporarily store the fruits prior to their transportation to Bangkok where they are sold at supermarkets and department stores at premium prices,” explains Phromsook.
Started by a village head several years ago after bringing together a handful of durian farmers, the collective has grown from strength to strength over the years and now includes nearly all the 170 farms in the area.
“With assistance from the government, the Sai Khao Durian Collective has successfully helped farmers escape the vicious cycle of poverty. People are happy when they have more disposable income to improve their standard of living,” elaborates Phromsook.
Apart from giving farmers various incentives to boost their durian-production capacity, the authorities, through the Southern Border Provinces Administrative Centre, have been actively promoting Sai Khao as the top eco-tourism and agro-tourism-based destination in southern Thailand.
This initiative bore fruit when Sai Khao was awarded the Most Outstanding Community-based Tourism Award by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). This award recognises the community’s ongoing efforts to preserve their precious natural and cultural resources as well as practise sustainable development.
Shifting his attention to a group of teenagers studying in one of the rooms, Phromsook tells me that this historic place of worship serves as an important learning centre for local culture and history.
While driving out of the mosque compound, he proudly adds: “The younger generation will leave one day in search of greener pastures, but, by knowing their roots, they will always have Sai Khao in their hearts and minds.”
After taking me on a quick walkabout to admire the unique architecture of a nearby 260-year-old Buddhist temple, Phromsook retraces the route back to the Sai Khao Centre Homestay before banking right at the junction and taking the road leading up to the Nam Tok Sai Khao National Park.
SIMPLE BUT WHOLESOME STAY
During the 30-minute uphill drive, I chuckle as I recall my conversation with the travel agent prior to this once-in-a-lifetime trip.
She hesitated when asked to list accommodation options with three-star ratings and above for Sai Khao.
She tells us that there are no hotels in Sai Khao. “It’s not even a city,” she elaborates. “It’s more a neighbourhood where businesses such as convenience shops, drink carts and durian stalls pop up at the front yards of rustic homes.”
Although there are hotels within driving distance in neighbouring Yala and Narathiwat provinces, the homestay comes highly recommended as a Sai Khao experience wouldn’t be complete without falling asleep under a mosquito net lulled by an orchestra of crickets and nightjars.
Furthermore, waking up to the crow of roosters heralding the arrival of dawn is better than an alarm clock any day.
Owned and managed by Lung Chanin and his wife Ba Chaem, the Sai Khao Centre Homestay provides a memorable feel of rural Thailand.
Visitors are free to explore the huge compound and have their fill of both seasonal as well as non-seasonal fruits like banana, mango, papaya and rambutan.
Affordably priced at only 100 baht (RM13.60) per person, guests have a choice of either sleeping upstairs or with the hosts on the ground floor.
After experiencing both during my two-night stay, I opt for the lower section as it offers a rare peek into the lives of the locals. Fond memories of friendly banter with the hosts while watching television will remain etched in my mind.
I’m jolted back into the present when a large squirrel suddenly darts across the path, causing Phromsook to bank sharply to the right to avoid it.
Grinning apologetically, he continues on at a slightly slower pace before coming to a stop at a plateau that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding area.
Luck is on my side as the perfect weather allows for a welcome sight of Pattani town, some 35 kilometres away.
PROTECTOR OF PATTANI
Showing me the nearby gigantic statue made in the image of Buddha in a sitting position, Phromsook reveals that the decision to build this structure at such a high elevation was for the Prabudhtha Mahamuninhalok Kanart statue to provide everlasting protection to the entire Pattani province.
“More than 93 per cent of Thais are Buddhists,” he adds before showing me the way to the last stop in my amazing jeep adventure.
After tracing the side of a narrow gorge for about half an hour, the sound of cascading water heralds our arrival at the Sai Khao Waterfall.
Although there are many waterfalls found in this huge national park that straddles all the three southern border provinces of Pattani, Yala and Songkhla, this particular water body is the largest and most easily accessible.
The 40-metre-high Sai Khao Waterfall cascades off a sheer drop before flowing through a gorge filled with swimming holes that are popular with visitors keen on enjoying the cool refreshing water as well as savouring a relaxing picnic on the rocky banks.
Just like the many amazing homestay moments, my time spent exploring this lesser known part of Pattani province will definitely result in many great stories shared with loved ones at home.
Sai Khao is truly southern Thailand’s hidden gem, one that’s waiting to embrace those who care enough to go off the beaten track and experience thelife’s simple pleasures with the locals.
Fast facts
As there is no airport in Pattani, the best way to Sai Khao is to either fly or take the train to Hat Yai and rent a car at the airport. After that, it’s just a two-hour leisurely drive to reach this amazing part of south Thailand.