TASTY morsels of steaming hot, freshly made dumplings arrive in a bamboo steamer. The lightly crispy coating of the fried yam puff crumbles to make way for a moist savoury filling. A soothing warm bowl of sweet velvety black sesame soup slides down my throat comfortingly.
It’s hard not to get excited every time a dim sum trolley rolls past the table. Pushed by uniformed staff, I observe these trolleys wander up and down the aisles of the expansive room heaving with Sunday diners, their lively chatter filling the air, punctuated by the clinking of cutlery and tableware. What makes this dim sum excursion a bit different from my usual is the fact that beyond the large windows spanning one side of the restaurant lies Victoria Harbour, a signature landmark of Hong Kong.
Dim sum (or yum cha as the locals call it) is a quintessential meal in this city alongside other local eating experiences such as cha chaan teng (local-styled fast-food restaurants) and dai pai dong (outdoor food stalls). Locals and visitors throng such places not just for authenticity but in some cases, for affordability.
These outlets are cornerstones of Hong Kong’s eating culture but at the other end of the spectrum, this food-loving Asian city, which has one of the highest concentrations of cafes and restaurants in the world with one cafe or restaurant for every 600 residents, is also renowned for its international fine-dining scene. A French tyre company has played a large role.
Hong Kong has received so many Michelin stars that it has a seat among the global top 10 of most stars awarded to a destination. This year, a total of 82 stars were awarded to restaurants here, some of which are ensconced in high-end hotels.
CLASSIC MEETS CONTEMPORARY
While I’m perfectly at ease perched on a wooden stool listening to a local woman’s shrill voice rocket across a little eatery with a nearby diner seated so close to me that she inadvertently photo-bombs my selfies, I can highly appreciate a more comfortable, more refined dining experience.
The distinctive melodic strains of an erhu float through the air. A not-so-little bonsai plant sits regally at the entrance alongside a table laid out with a Chinese tea set. The grand tea pavilion is a captivating sight, albeit a modern interpretation of the classic structure, and it’s something I didn’t expect in the middle of a restaurant.
The zen vibes lure my footsteps further inside Rùn (pronounced roon), the signature Cantonese restaurant of St Regis Hong Kong that delivers delicate seasonal dishes as well as dim sum, seafood, signature roasts and nourishing soups. The culinary team here is spearheaded by award-winning chef Hung Chi-Kwong, formerly the Chef de Cuisine at a famous Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant. With 30 years in the business, Chef Hung is famed for his contemporary takes on classic Chinese dishes which diners can savour at Rùn, a Chinese word that means well-rounded or balanced.
Amid the elegant surroundings of a private room, I embark on an 8-course dinner, reminiscent of a lengthy Chinese wedding banquet, though far more refined and pork-free (to accommodate a couple of fellow guests). A trio comprising a divine deep-fried Wagyu beef puff, a portion of pan-fried bean curd sheets in spicy sauce and some tender, marinated chicken pieces, makes for a delicious appetiser.
By the time a hearty braised fish soup, a large pan-fried Hokkaido scallop and a steamed garoupa fillet take their turns to be served, I’m near the point of undoing my belt — if I were wearing one. There’s simply no room any more for the rest that follows although I manage to muster effort for dessert, a refreshing bowl of chilled pink guava cream laced with sago and coconut jelly. Most of the evening’s flavours are deceptively light, an enticing aspect for the health-conscious.
INVENTIVE MIND
In a separate chat with Hung via a translator, he confirms that Cantonese cuisine is known for its subtle tastes and fresh ingredients. “We like the original flavours of ingredients, not too heavy in flavour, not overpowered by spices. The fish tastes of fish; you taste the food as it is,” explains the soft-spoken, self-taught chef. He started working in kitchens at the age of 15 and gradually discovered his culinary talents, rising up to become a Michelin-calibre chef.
Decked out in a white chef’s attire, Hung tells me how Cantonese cuisine has changed over time. “Older chefs used to use more oil, but the trend is towards healthier dishes,” he says, sharing that he has even put quinoa into fried rice. In addition, he recalls how chefs didn’t care for plate presentation. “It was all about the taste. But now you see more intricate decoration. For example, for the dessert course, I spent time doing the balsamic bamboo painting to make it presentable.”
Improving the aesthetics is also one of the ways he helps Rùn to be competitive. “It’s about more on the presentation, more intricate work, like the wagyu beef puff. No one else outside does the two layers.”
Elaborating, he adds: “I also created a very nice soup — double-boiled in a coconut, using the coconut juice and superior soup. It’s double boiled with abalone, pork, goji. You can taste the richness yet it’s not overpowering. I also burn the top of the coconut so that when it reaches the table, the smell is aromatic.” While this inventive chef does showcase some of his unique and modern interpretations, he still retains certain traditional aspects to accommodate their older clientele.
FRENCH FLAIR
High hopes rest on Rùn to stand out among its top peers and equally on another restaurant newcomer that resides under the same St Regis roof. Helmed by one of the top French chefs in Hong Kong, L’Envol aims to fly to great heights with its inventive interpretation of French haute cuisine under the curation of Chef Olivier Elzer, who has a combined 18 Michelin stars to his experience.
If it seems incongruous to visit Hong Kong for its French fine dining fare, it’s worth knowing that this city is home to the largest French expat community in Asia and the second largest outside of France (according to a Time magazine article in 2013). Gourmands in Asia don’t have to travel halfway round the world to savour the Michelin-quality craft of elite French chefs.
Nestled comfortably in one of the beige banquettes, I scan the softly-lit space, decorated in the style of a contemporary French salon and imbued with a sense of glamour through bespoke chandeliers, marble features and silk murals splashed with gold.
Everything is immaculate, from the customised tableware to the perfectly groomed crew, some of whom are noticeably easy on the eyes. On this particular evening, all the tables are filled and service runs like clockwork.
A printed card on my table reveals that dinner will be the 5-course Découverte menu, a showcase of the “Chef’s newest inspirations”, promising Hokkaido sea urchin on marinated gamberoni prawn, line-caught French sea bass topped with Tasmanian black truffle, and charcoal-grilled Challans duck breast.
They’re all utterly delectable, including the extras such as fresh crusty bread with flavoured butter and a cheese platter. I can barely eat anymore, until an irresistible chocolate finale is placed before me which is lovingly devoured.
REACH FOR THE STARS
The following day, I’m seated in the restaurant’s private room when a tall black-clad man breezes in to greet me. With an energy that almost mirrors the bustle of a kitchen, Chef Elzer shares some plans which include having their own cheese trolley and an infusion trolley with beautiful flowers so that patrons can witness their dish being infused.
“But it’s not just putting flowers and infusion facing you. I want to have everything made well,” adds the Frenchman who joined St Regis Hong Kong some two years ago to develop a top modern French fine-dining venue. The pre-opening work was a lengthy process and even though it’s been open since April this year, there’s still much work to do to raise L’Envol within reach of the stars.
Confides Elzer: “Chasing Michelin stars is an ongoing process. We change the menu all the time and try to input more refined and more technical dishes. We keep adding on every single day, weeks and months, new inputs to ensure that we can look back and say we did a good job.”
The lunch and dinner set menus are renewed so frequently, often in line with seasonal ingredients that regular customers return to discover new dishes. In the evenings, besides Découverte, patrons can also choose from another two set menus — an 8-course Signature menu featuring all the chef’s signatures, and the Prestige menu, an 8-course caviar-based meal.
Having lived in Hong Kong for 11 years, Elzer is familiar with the competitive restaurant scene and is well-prepared to push harder to bring L’Envol to the top. Yet he’s in no hurry. “I can put the level up here but if we’re struggling to hold this level, it will not look good. I prefer to come in from down here and go up step by step,” he remarks matter-of-factly.
His approach is to focus on quality rather than on the competition, fuelled by his view that “people in Hong Kong are willing to spend money when they know that they’re eating quality”. To him, the other French chefs are friends and colleagues, not so much competitors.
“Our ways of cooking are different. We don’t have the same style, I like that. I think Hong Kong people should be happy to have so many styles, so many different types of restaurants. Yesterday we had a full house. There’s no need to see what others are doing,” opines the chef who loves travelling and discovering new experiences.
I’ve discovered some delicious creations worth returning to Hong Kong for, and they’re not steamed dumplings. Until then, I’ll enjoy lingering thoughts of the sublime French chocolate dessert and that Wagyu beef puff.
Details at: www.stregishongkong.com