Sunday Vibes

Malaysian chefs' remarkable journey from setbacks to success at World Top Gourmet Awards 2023

IN the pulsating heart of culinary creation, where passion intertwines with pans and dreams are plated, the narrative of chefs Yenni Law and Shelly Saw — two culinary virtuosos — continues to unfold. For beyond the accolades and the tantalising aromas wafting from their kitchen, lies a deeper tale of shared dreams, personal growth and the loyal, unwavering bond between mentor and protege.

It's just past peak-time lunch hour when I descend on Meat Feds by Chef Yenni Law, a restaurant and watering hole located in Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya. The duo, fresh from their triumph at the recent World Top Gourmet Awards 2023, an event that serves as a platform of excellence in the F&B industry, are just about to take a well-earned break before returning to the kitchen again to prepare for the dinner-time flurry.

At the prestigious event, both Yenni and Shelly received their due accolades. For the former, it was the Top Outstanding Master Chef award for Western cuisine, while her young protege netted the Top Young Chef award for western cuisine. And what made the night even sweeter? Their establishment was awarded the World Top Gourmet award for Lifestyle Dining.

"It's going to be full house again tonight," beams the Taiping-born Yenni, as she makes herself comfortable on the chair opposite me. It's not long before the generally more stoic-looking Shelly sidles over too, her expression expectant.

"I feel like I'm about to put you guys through the Spanish Inquisition," I joke to the duo as Shelly's nervous chuckles remind me that for the 30-year-old, it's a "first" to be interviewed as an equal with her mentor or "The Godfather", as she fondly calls Yenni.

But the sparkle in her eyes tell me that she's definitely enjoying the moment.

CULINARY RENAISSANCE

So, what's been happening, I ask, turning my gaze to Yenni, an industry veteran of 30 years, whose journey began from the lowest rungs of the kitchen, and has been littered with challenges that, at times, had felt completely insurmountable.

"Well, we've been operating for a year and nine months here now," begins the 40-something chef, continuing: "When we first started, it was very tough. In fact, the first six months felt like a baptism of fire all over again. The pandemic saw the end of my restaurant Meatology, which I'd had for 17 years, I had no idea whether I was going to be able to have another business or what I was going to do."

The journey from the ashes of Meatology to the triumphant stage of the World Top Gourmet Awards has been somewhat of a rollercoaster of emotions and challenges. For Yenni, pulling down the shutters on Meatology was more than the shuttering of a restaurant; it was akin to losing a part of herself.

The echoes of that experience reverberate when she muses softly: "It's worse than the end of a marriage. It's like you gave birth, you care for the baby, you see the baby grow… and then, 17 years later, your child dies. It's painful."

Yet, as with all good storylines, from the ashes rose a phoenix, and the collaboration with wine partners Psychotic Operator (Wine Space), formerly suppliers to Meatology for many years, became the canvas for the duo's culinary renaissance.

Recalls Yenni: "They saw on my Facebook that I was closing down. So, they approached me for a possible collaboration. 'Let us do the wine part and you do the food', they offered. And because they'd been our loyal suppliers for 17 years, I agreed. At the same time, a job offer had come in too."

But instead of rejoicing at the prospect, Yenni was thrown into a quandary. Her eyes clouding thoughtfully, the chef, synonymous for her prowess with meats, remembers: "I contemplated hard. If I were to take up the job offer, it meant abandoning my team members, chef Shelly and Bernice (who looks after the marketing side of operations). I couldn't possibly do that."

Continuing, Yenni shares: "After all, we'd been working together for so long. Shelly and I had been working together for seven years by then and faced all kinds of challenges — together. It's like… when you're so connected already, it's very hard to disconnect. For me, it's always about the people. Money? If you lose it, you can earn it back lah somehow. But loss of relationships, it's never a nice thing. So, I wanted to keep that going."

For chef Shelly, who was, with the end of Meatology, also bracing for the prospect of temporary unemployment, the opportunity to rejoin her mentor in this unexpected new venture signalled a new chapter in her own culinary journey.

Their decision to embark on this new adventure was more than a business decision; it was a commitment to a shared vision and a testament to their unyielding loyalty — not only to their passion, but to each other.

What made you willing to gamble and resume your partnership with your mentor, I ask Shelly, who has a diploma in culinary from Taylor's Lakeside University, in between sips of my coffee.

"Yeah, why were you willing to gamble with me? I already lost my business," pipes in Yenni, her guffaws slicing through the calm of the restaurant.

Chuckling in response, the Kajang-born Shelly, who started her career with Vintry Ampang as a kitchen helper, replies: "I trust you lor! So many years already we'd been working together. I'd seen how she works, and how she deals with people. Anyway, it doesn't mean if you fail that one time, you'll always fail. I'd been with Meatology for six years as a chef alongside Yenni, but the new business venture gave us the opportunity to be business partners. This is my dream."

Casting a quick look at her mentor, who'd hitherto been listening intently at her answers, Shelly shares: "For me, the pull factor is loyalty. And that's one of the most important lessons I've learnt from working with Yenni. We've tasted success and failure, and yet, we'd been able to ride through everything together. It's a connection that's worth preserving. I don't think it's easy to find someone who inspires this kind of feeling inside you."

FINDING HARMONY

As they navigated the challenges of establishing a new culinary venture, the importance of resilience and adaptability became evident. Reflecting on the early days of Meat Feds, Yenni confides: "When we first started, of course, it was a rocky road. But in those moments of uncertainty, we knew that together, we would be able to adapt to the changes and face our challenges head on."

Pisces Yenni and Leo Shelly are as different as night and day. However, their clash of personalities, evident in the occasional fiery kitchen disagreements, became a source of strength rather than a point of contention.

The detailed-oriented chef, Shelly, and the big-picture visionary, Yenni, have been able to find harmony in their differences. The latter's admission of her impatience and Shelly's revelation of her frustration marked a turning point — an acknowledgment of vulnerabilities and a commitment to personal growth.

"Two lions cannot be in the same kitchen!" exclaims Shelly, who's been in the F&B line for close to 10 years. Adding with a chuckle, she says: "I'm a Leo and I am a true lion! Yenni is supposed to be the dreamy fish, because she's Pisces. But actually, she's also fierce!"

Nodding with a grin, Yenni offers: "I always want to do things fast. I'm very impatient. I have no attention to details. Shelly has always played the supportive role, so I've always relied on her for that — like Batman and Robin. A detailed person will start asking 'how, how, how?' For me, I'll answer I don't know, but let's just start doing it and then the 'how' will fall into place. These days, I've begun to see that as long as you have the 'want', the 'how' will slowly arrive."

Continuing, Yenni, who cites British chef and restaurateur Marco Pierre White as her hero, concedes: "I didn't realise there was these simmering frustrations within her (Shelly) that were just waiting to explode. One day, she finally combusted and shouted at me. I was really upset. She pointed out things which I hadn't realised. That was when I started to consciously remind myself that I had to make an effort to change. If not, everybody will start leaving me. I had to eat some humble pie."

After that particular huge blow-up, the duo sat down and talked. Really talked. "Yeah, it was like a break-up session!" pipes Yenni, sheepishly, adding: "I raised the white flag. I was wrong so I swallowed my ego, sat down and apologised!"

MARCHING ON

Their onward journey isn't just about basking in past achievements; it's about a future they both envision, where their knowledge and experience can be put to good use; perhaps a guiding light for other young aspiring chefs.

Reflecting on their growth, Yenni envisions establishing a culinary academy one day where they can impart not just culinary skills, but also the ethos of their journey. "Maybe one day we can run our own academy to help all these young people," confides Yenni, eyes dancing with passion.

Continuing, she says: "A lot of the time, when an academy is established, it's always by a business person, with no real industry knowledge or of the nitty gritty. I think it makes sense for us to start one because we ARE chefs. We can train these young people who are inspired to be in this field. And train them to do things properly."

Nodding, Shelly, who's the second child out of three siblings, echoes the senior chef's sentiments when she chips in: "I'd love to do that together with Yenni." So, stay married forever and ever ah? I couldn't help teasing her.

"Ya lor, why break up a good thing? We're good together, mah!" replies Shelly, as laughter erupts once again and Yenni's expression breaks into one of utter contentment.

Suffice to say, the duo's aspirations stretch beyond the confines of their kitchen. Both Yenni and Shelly envision a legacy that extends beyond awards and culinary creations; the kind of legacy that's built on mentorship, resilience, and a commitment to nurturing the next generation of culinary talents.

Beyond the accolades and bustling kitchen, the chefs find solace in simple pleasures. Asked to describe her post-work routine, Yenni replies: "On my day off, I just like to chill. Maybe with a glass of wine and a good book. I love to read self-help books for my personal development. Other times, I might go out for makan-makan (food), sometimes with the team, and explore other places to eat."

Cocking my head towards Shelly for her answer, I'm tickled when she replies: "My own time? I like to disturb Yenni. I'm like her shadow!" This camaraderie, woven into the fabric of their professional partnership, reflects not just their shared passion for culinary excellence, but also the genuine friendship that has blossomed amidst the sizzling pots and pans.

As they stand on the precipice of the culinary future they envision, Yenni and Shelly, mentor and protégé, have become more than chefs; they are storytellers driven by the desire to weave a narrative of passion, resilience, and the profound impact that a shared culinary journey can have on the soul.

Meat Feds by Chef Yenni Law

7, Jalan 20/13, Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya

(Non-halal) IG: @meatfeds

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