Malacca is vibrant and touristy but some places of interest retain their age-old charm and historical significance, writes Shuib Taib
COLOURFUL, decorated rickshaws. Busy streets. Tourists everywhere. If we are to travel back in time to three decades ago and compare Malacca to what it is today, you will notice the changes in the historic city.
Modern shopping complexes, high-rise condos and serviced residences line the highways from Air Keroh toll, the entry point to Malacca. This was not so 30 years ago as, aside from the Air Keroh Zoo, there wasn’t much development.
Indeed, what was once a town is now a modern and vibrant city. But certain things remain unchanged.
Take the Stadthuys. Do you know the word is Dutch for “State house”? Probably one of the most visited places in Malacca, the complex, which is also known as Red Square, is a good stop to rest and look-a-round. Built by the Dutch in 1650 as the office of the Dutch governor and deputy governor, it remains one of the oldest buildings in Southeast Asia.
Since motorised vehicles are banned from the narrow Jalan Kota where the Stadthuys is, the area has turned into a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. It is hard to miss the presence of colourful rickshaws adorned with artificial flowers shaped into all kinds of symbols such as a heart.
The Stadthuys is going through refurbishment works and will be re-opened soon. But fret not. Take a walk and you will be pleasantly surprised at the number of things you can see and do.
Within walking distance from the Stadthuys is the Democratic Government Museum, Governor’s Museum, Literature Museum and St Paul’s ruins.
DEMOCRATIC GOVERNMENT MUSEUM
This building was once the Malacca State Assembly building. It ceased to be so when the Government moved its business and administration including the state assembly to Air Keroh.
Those days Malacca legislative members gathered here to discuss the annual State budget and pass Bills.
Now it is a museum tracing the development and practice of parliamentary democracy in independent Malaysia and giving Malaysians and foreign visitors alike a greater insight into the the constitutional system of government.
There is an array of interesting displays like a miniature Parliament building, an old film projector (used to show election workers during the event), old news clippings (some in Jawi), statues of former politicians (most prominent being Datuk Seri Onn Jaafar) and rubber stamps of hundreds of political parties which I find quite amusing.
GOVERNOR’S MUSEUM
Before it became the official residence of Yang Dipertua Malacca (governor), this white colonial bungalow on sprawling land was the official residence and office of the Dutch governor of Malacca when the Dutch ruled Malacca during the 17th Century.
And what a location! It sits proudly on St Paul’s Hill, next to the ruins of St Paul’s Church. During British rule, the building was the residence and office of the governor of Malacca.
When Malaya became independent, it became the first residence of the first governor of Malacca. But eventually the location was no longer deemed suitable due to limited space. It was inadequate to meet the demands of a fast developing State.
So if you want to see how a governor lives, what tea set he uses, his living room and the car he drove (or rather chauffer-driven), head down to the Governor’s Museum.
LITERATURE MUSEUM
Walk up Jalan Kota towards St Paul’s Hill and you will see a lime green colonial bungalow perched at the end of the road. This is the Literature Museum.
Located within the Stadhuys complex, it contains written historical records of Malacca such as the Malay Annals, Hikayat Hang Tuah, Hukum Kanun Melaka (Punishment Under Canon Law), the writings of Munsyi Abdullah and Malay folklore. The museum also traces the growth of Malay literature in Malacca from the Malacca Sultanate to the contemporary literary scene.
Just as impressive are paintings of writers such as Munshi Abdullah. Original handwritten historical manuscripts from many parts of the world can be found here while traditional literary genres such as pantun, gurindam, nazam and puisi (forms of poetry and story-telling poetry) are also given due recognition.
ST PAUL’S RUINS
Originally built in 1521, its location at the summit of St. Paul’s Hill makes it grand. Old Portuguese tombstones are placed against the walls. Though roofless, it still offers excellent views of Malacca.
Once referred to as Malacca Hill, it was renamed Mary’s Hill after the Portuguese took over Malacca.
Originally a chapel, it was not built by the Portuguese administrators though, but by Portuguese nobleman Duarte Coelho whose ship had miraculously escaped a sea storm in the South China Sea.
As an act of gratitude, he erected the chapel on top of Malacca Hill, dedicating it to Lady of Grace (Nassa Senhora da Annunciada) in 1520-21.
When the Dutch wrested Malacca from the Portuguese in 1641, they destroyed all the Portuguese buildings and took over the chapel. They repaired and renamed it St. Paul’s Church, a name which remains until today. The Dutch used it for their worship for the next 112 years, until they built their own church — Christ Church — at the foot of the hill. St Paul’s Church was then abandoned.
When the British took over Malacca in 1824, St Paul’s Church has lost its tower. However, the British added a lighthouse in front of it.
And instead of it being a place of worship, the church became a convenient storehouse for British gun powder. Today, it is part of the Malacca Museum Complex comprising the A Famosa ruins, Stadthuys and other historical buildings.
Aside from souvenir stalls, it is quiet around here, almost tranquil. But apparently, it takes on a different feel at night, the kind that makes your hair stand. Well, I wouldn’t know for sure but I’m just going to take my tour guide’s word for it!