Bangkok’s dining spots know how to evoke an experience for the senses, not just for the stomach, writes Karen Ho
THERE’S no denying that Bangkok is a shopping and eating haven, just like our capital city. However, one of the highlights from a recent trip was not an animated haggling session at a vibrant marketplace to knock 70 per cent off a must-have handbag, nor savouring cheap and characterful street food by the roadside. Instead, it was being immersed in well-designed concept stores and restaurants.
At Central World shopping mall, the sixth largest shopping complex in the world owned by Central Pattana, is a quaint store specialising in Thai aromatic products — scented candles, lip balms and aromatherapy oils. I am transported to an old-fashioned apothecary where in the past, one acquired exotic herbal or chemical potions as medicinal cures.
Wandering past the high wooden shelves and dark panels, I wonder what lies within the numerous brown glass bottles and antique-looking drawers. The rustic and mysterious ambience of this dimly lit shop is mesmerising.
Then there’s the restaurant with a faux wigwam and a life-like bear wearing an angry expression, perhaps because he had been unceremoniously stuffed and stuck inside a glass case at the entrance. More taxidermied animals greet you inside, all part of the hunting lodge concept. It’s easy to imagine a John Wayne character leaning against the long wooden bar counter or eating off tin plates while recounting how he bravely took down the burly creature. It’s the closest feeling to being in the American Wild West, an experience re-created strangely enough in central Bangkok.
Concept stores and restaurants have been around for some time but Bangkok seems to have the knack for executing them well. These places go well beyond the standard method of selling products or a service. Instead, they add distinctive design and aesthetics built on a theme.
Some industry observers have remarked that concept stores are sprouting faster and getting better as online shopping surges. Brick and mortar stores are fighting back by cultivating an experience that cannot be recreated online. How else can you stumble into a fantasy world or feel like you have travelled back in time?
Fortunately for restaurateurs, there’s no competition from e-commerce. Even if you and your travel companions are not adverse to hunching over a rickety plastic table at a roadside stall, or to navigating your way around a foreign food court, it’s very likely that no one would object to one meal at a more comfortable and aesthetically-pleasing eatery.
AUDREY’S ALLURE
Breakfast seems like eons ago. My stomach seeks more sustenance while my sulking feet plead for a seat after hours of visiting some of Bangkok’s upscale shopping hotspots. Thankfully, my lunch venue is just a lift ride away within the luxury lifestyle mall of Central Embassy.
It feels wrong to just rush inside the cafe to grab my seat without first admiring Audrey Cafe’s beautiful frontage, which has an ornate and sparkling facade that exudes a distinctly European style. A pretty patisserie takes up half of the front, offering an assortment of desserts and their own branded snacks, while the equally elegant other half serves as the entrance to the dining area. The interior doesn’t disappoint either, as I waltz gracefully like Audrey Hepburn to our table.
Owned by a former TV host, the stylish cafe located on the fifth floor is somewhat inspired by the legendary American actress and fashion icon. Audrey Hepburn is synonymous with Parisian chic as the French capital was a location for many of her movies. French vintage and glamour reign throughout the cafe’s sophisticated interior, from marble table tops and cushioned chairs, to gilded framed mirrors and quaint lamps, not to mention the use of soft textures and an eye-catching wall art at the back.
FUSION OF FLAVOURS
The lunch crowd has filled this two-year-old eatery, which is either testimony of its alluring aesthetics or contemporary cuisine. On the menu is a fusion of Thai and European cuisine, ranging from salads, meaty mains, pasta dishes to Thai appetisers, rice and noodles, even non-meat options. I savour one of their exclusive dishes, Ramen Pad Thai with soft shell crab, made with Japanese ramen instead of ribbon-like rice noodles.
Although somewhat spongey for my liking, the large portion of ramen does carry the different flavours that Pad Thai is known for, but the sweetness could have been toned down a bit. The crab clings to the ramen for dear life but nothing can stop my assault on its moist flesh encased in the deep fried crispy soft shell.
At the same time, dish after dish arrives until the table is barely visible. That’s when I discover the delicate yet spicy salmon sashimi, the flavourful dry chilli spaghetti with river prawn, a fierce Tom Yum Goong that jolts my senses and an addictive tangy Tom Yum pizza topped with prawns.
The one item that definitely motivates a return visit is the luscious lychee mint drink, a refreshing concoction that now ranks as one of my all-time favourite thirst-quenchers. The lychee and mint are perfectly in balance while a welcome splash of yoghurt gives it a slightly creamy texture.
HOME-STYLE CHARM
By dinner time, I’m in the mood to sample authentic local fare and there’s a place nearby specialising in southern Thai cuisine. Coincidentally, it’s just a few doors away from our lunch venue and has a similar European air. The flower cart at the entrance of Love Eat Bistro hints at the aesthetically-pleasing ambience within.
When the waiter leads me to the rear of the restaurant where I am to be seated, I can’t help but be charmed by what greets me. I am no longer in a bustling Asian city but in a land of handsome country homes and beautiful blossoming gardens. A stunning mural sets an inviting scene for a meal in cosy surroundings. Add to that the light hues, soft lighting, garden-esque furniture, patterned floor tiles, floral bouquets, plush sofa chairs, plump cushions — there’s no mistaking that homely countryside ambience.
The food here centres on a home-cooking style, hence the effort to create the impression of informal dining in someone’s country house. The mostly-Asian menu includes a page of popular southern dishes and from this recommended list, I try the Massaman Curry with Chicken, a hearty and mildly spicy dish. Featuring mushy potatoes, onions, cashews, dried spices, coconut milk and curry paste, the result resembles a very thick version of a stew albeit sweeter.
A must-have from the same list is the Yellow Crab Curry which is served with rice vermicelli and pineapple pieces on the side. With freshly pounded curry paste and coconut milk, the aromatic sauce is a delicious blend of creaminess, spiciness and richness, a satisfying partner to the noodles.
A trip to Thailand wouldn’t be complete without tasting some coconut ice-cream and the bistro’s version hits all the right spots. The incredibly fresh and fragrant coconut flavour leaves a memorable impression, as does the sweet banana dessert that comes with it. Perhaps it’s the crisp fresh countryside air that has stimulated my palate.