Nasi kukus aficionados should check out this eatery which serves mainly Kelantanese fare, writes Ewe Paik Leong
SURIANI Nasi Kukus sports a funky industrial look because wooden pellets are recycled into tables. Walls and a counter feature exposed bricks, exuding a rustic ambiance. The smoking section, as usual, is in the sidewalk. MaxandCarl, a boutique owned by the restaurant’s partners — Afizul Haikal and Mahmud Abu Bakar — occupies a small glass-partitioned section.
On a small blackboard affixed on a wall is scribbled the set lunch options for the day, all affordably priced. Also proudly displayed is an “A” cleanliness notice by the Ampang Jaya Municipal Council.
The stylish menu comprises a mix of Kelantan, Thai and Western dishes. Under “starter”, there are kuih lopes, keropok lekor, roti tibab, rojak, grilled beancurd and others. Bunched under “alik Siam” is a variety of fried rice (such as nasi goreng Pattaya, nasi goreng Siam, nasi goreng kunyit, etc), tom yam, squid, prawn, beef and chicken cooked in various styles such as paprika, sweet-sour, spicy and tiga-rasa.
The star of the menu is the “Kelate” section. Offered are nasi kukus with fried chicken, grilled chicken, ayam percik or tenggiri fish. A short list of spaghetti, chops, fruit juices and soft drinks complete the menu.
For starter, I dig into keropok lekor (fish cracker). The snack is presented neatly on a white platter. While keropok lekor sold at roadside hawker stalls are twisted these are straight, indicating a difference in ingredients. The flavours of the ocean explode in my mouth as fresh fish has been used to make the paste. The accompanying sweetish-sourish sambal dip makes my tongue curl in delight.
Next, nasi kerabu ayam perchik arrives at my table. The visual delight turns into a palate-pleaser when I attack the chicken. The gravy-drenched chicken meat bursts with savoury spicy flavours dominated by lemongrass and tamarind. The tender texture of the meat adds to the delight. As regards the rice mix, I’d prefer less kerisik (toasted coconut flakes) and more herbs and veggies. Overall, this dish still scores 4/5 on my scale.
My meal continues with nasi kukus ayam bakar (grilled chicken). A breast quarter with the wing comes with a mound of gravy-smothered rice. The steamed rice is fluffy and combines well with the lovely rich gravy. A dollop of spicy-sourish veggies serves as a counterpoint to the coconut-milk-infused gravy.
Finally, asam boi and Thai green tea are sampled. The asam boi makes me squint but it refreshes my taste buds. The Thai green tea is nothing to rave about as I suspect it is infused from a sachet. Nevertheless, there are other existing drinks like mojito and apple mojito. Overall, if Suriani can make good its minor flaws, it can be the uncrowned king of nasi kukus in town.
Suriani Nasi Kukus
WHERE: Lot 8-B2, Ground Floor City Garden Commercial Centre Taman Nirvana, Ampang, Selangor
Tel: 03-9201 4187
OPENING HOURS: Noon to midnight
GETTING THERE: Travel out of KL along Jalan Ampang until you pass Ampang Avenue. Take the nearest U-turn to get to the other side of the road. Make a left turn at Jalan Cahaya which will lead you to Taman Nirvana.
WHAT’S COOKING: Mainly Kelantan fare
MUST TRY: Various kinds of nasi kukus
YOU’LL PAY: About RM35 to RM55 for seafood and RM9 to RM12 for rice dishes
ATMOSPHERE: Casual
THE LOO: Clean and everything works
SERVICE: Friendly and efficient
OVERALL VERDICT: Must try