From Kuala Lumpur to Paris and Milan, Moto Guo is making waves with his eccentric designs, writes Aznim Ruhana Md Yusup
MOTO Guo caused a bit of a stir last June during his Milan Men’s Fashion Week debut. Showing his Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the designer sent out models, both male and female, with visible and even exaggerated acne.
It led to headlines such as Don’t Wash Your Face Because Zits Are Cool Now from New York Magazine. The UK’s Daily Mail asked, Are Spots Hot? and called Guo’s make-up decision “bizarre.” Meanwhile, The New York Post mentioned him in an opinion piece about how Trashy Taste Is Tearing Up Our Runways And Sidewalks.
There were also those who said he was ridiculing people with acne but others found it empowering. According to website Refinery29, “Through his choice of make-up (or lack thereof), he gives representation to a condition that is largely ignored.”
“We think representing not-so-flawless skin has got to be a move in the right direction,” concluded Cosmopolitan.com.au.
It’s interesting to note that publications with a younger demographic tend to be more positive compared to those with an older audience.
Regardless of the reaction, it’s certainly an astonishing way of announcing yourself on the world stage.
NOT A SPOT OF BOTHER
Guo, 24, says it wasn’t a planned gimmick. “It started with a simple thought as my collection is named Picnic In The Society,” he says via email in the run-up to Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear 2016.
“In the story, our teenage characters are having a peaceful picnic that exposes them to the big hot sun, so it’s normal for them to have acne.
“In addition, I’ve always wanted to use acne as a make-up effect on my models simply because I think it is very nerdy, mainly because of my own experience. I was the school nerd, with zits covering my cheeks, and Moto Guo is always about nerdy and wacky, isn’t it?”
Part of Guo’s “nerdy” experience growing up was being involved in classical music. Before his career in fashion, he was a musician and had played double bass for the Malaysian Philharmonic Youth Orchestra and the KL String Project.
Then there was the name Moto, a nickname he picked up from a hippopotamus in the movie Madagascar.
Wanting to become a fashion designer, he enrolled in Raffles College of Higher Education and graduated in 2013. He released his first collection under the Moto Guo label in early 2015 for that year’s Fall/Winter season, called A Litho Odd.
On the press he’s gotten for the unusual looks in Milan, Guo says: “We appreciate all kinds of feedback regarding this, but we have also learnt that one can never please everyone. People do not necessarily have to understand your reasons, so misinterpretation will always happen, and it really depends on how we deal with it.
“Nevertheless, it is fun and interesting to see how people make stories out of a tiny seed, and I foresee this entire incident could be a potential inspiration for our future work.”
BIBS ANDTEA TOWELS
With all the talk about acne, the clothes seem to have taken a backseat. It’s unfortunate because Picnic In The Society stands on its own by being eccentric, humorous and full of unique charm.
The collection includes an apron/overall in a red picnic blanket pattern, shirts that look like Victorian-era babywear and oversized trousers that appear to be fitted on a scarecrow.
Guo makes bibs into tops, tea towels into T-shirts and oversized bread clips into necklaces. Imagine taking the clip off a Gardenia pack and putting it on a chain and around your neck — that should give you an idea of Guo’s sense of humour.
Yet it works. It feels true to his design ambition. It also feels lighter and happier than his past collections, some of which were inspired by socially awkward salarymen and foetuses that were calcified inside their mother’s womb.
Looking at models with skinny legs and tops that say “time to eat y’all”, I’m reminded of the fairytale, Hansel And Gretel. He further invokes the childlike aspect by having songs like Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star and Are You Sleeping accompany his show. But Guo shrugs off the connection. He says: “I think it’s the whimsical and dark vibe that is similar.”
While the tween factor may be a bit much for some people, one can certainly appreciate the thought and craftsmanship that goes into making them. Guo explains:
“Inspired by the design process, the collectionevokes a juxtaposed image of a picnic taking place in the midst of the hustling and bustling crowd that symbolises the fashion industry.
“The picnic ensemble resembles our collected and calm team which drums to our own beat. Seemingly unusual to any outsider, we do not ride the tide while the rest appear to be doing so.”
TONGUES OUT
Guo’s break in Milan Fashion Week came courtesy of CNMI (the National Chamber Of Italian Fashion) as part of an initiative to support a new generation of designers.
“It was a long story, but in short we were invited by CNMI to hold a runway presentation during SS17 and everything was financially covered,” he says.
“My team and I appreciated the amazing opportunity, very much just like how they appreciated us, supported and helped us the best they could. I was also glad that the masses loved our collection and how we presented in MFW.”
It came several months after Guo was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designer for 2016. He was one of 24 candidates in the semifinal, and had his designs judged by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.
Supermodel Karlie Kloss was also on the panel of judges. She loved his jacket with the protruding tongue so much that she did a similar pose with the jacket on Twitter. Guo says the competition was an exceptionally remarkable experience.
“Everything is beneficial and helpful to us in our growth as a young label, especially meeting the jury panel. Genuine feedback and encouragement keep us moving forward. I believed we have evolved to another level after the competition and we are marching towards a bigger and brighter future.”
Back in Kuala Lumpur, he is busy keeping up with orders. The challenge for any designer is to stay fresh for the next season, and expectations are high for him. He doesn’t want to be boxed as a menswear designer either, and aspires to spread his brand of joy to the people he dresses.
“My work is an extension of myself, my individuality and my experiences,” he says.
“Other than understanding about me as an individual and a designer, I hope people also can catch the self-deprecating kind of humour in the designs.”