It may be a 3-course set dinner but diners can make selections from the whole menu, writes Tan Bee Hong
IT’S chic and contemporary but most of all, I enjoy the quiet ambience of Urban. Despite the occasional hearty laughter from other diners, I’ve never felt any intrusion on my privacy there.
The fine-dining restaurant in Hotel Istana in the Golden Triangle is set in a discreet enclave at one side of the lobby.
GET SET
Urban’s latest are its 3-course set dinner, priced at RM150 nett per person and Gourmet Specials set dinner (including amuse bouche) at RM210 nett. The nicest thing about this is that diners get to pick from the regular menu. For a la carte orders, appetisers are RM55 nett, main courses are RM95 nett and desserts are RM45. Listed under gourmet specials (RM165 nett) are four items.
CRUSTY START
Freshly baked crusty bread with herb butter is always a treat. But go slow on this at the risk of not having tummy space for dessert later as portions are substantial, even the appetisers.
The Arborio Rice, for instance, is quite filling and because it’s so delicious with the aroma of girolles (or chanterelle) mushroom and black truffle (“I just received a fresh consignment,” says chef de cuisine Sharusmizal Mohad Salleh), I cannot help finishing it all, including the grilled squid and sea scallop.
Other biggies are Smoked Farm Quail and Element Of The Sea. The latter has four seafood items: Saba ballonttine, hamachi with yuzu, king crab in tofu and udon with black Spanish caviar.
The quail roulade is no less impressive, with sides of lychee, toasted brioche, miso daikon and quail eggs benedict. Trumpet mushrooms and a truffle vinaigrette add a heady aroma.
If you’re a small eater, go for foie gras with a slice of glazed peach, the hazelnut crusted sea scallops or the oyster veloute.
SATISFYING MAINS
From the mains menu, we pick Sakura Chicken. The roulade with prawn mousse inside, is served on lentils with chanterelles and green vegetable.
Sous Vide Lamb Loin, finished off with a crust of pistachios and served with Moroccan bisteeya (pie) and a tomato cherry tart, is nicely cooked to tenderness. Even better is the Roasted Venison Loin from the Gourmet Specials menu. Perfectly timed to be on the medium rare side, the tender venison comes with red currant juice, orange segments, pumpkin puree and caramelised red cabbage.
Fish too is available on both menus. Both fish dishes we pick come with a huge tiger prawn on the side. The Milky Fish will delight those who like their fish meaty. Personally, I love the Herb Crusted Cod from the Gourmet menu.
The mild, flaky fish on mashed potato and asparagus, pirouettes well with the tomato buerre blanc sauce.
For vegetarians, Risotto With Asparagus and Wild Mushrooms sound like a real treat.
AW, IT’S SWEET
I seldom have room left for dessert but the Manjari 75% Semi Freddo is not something you’ll want to miss. Forget the Hazelnut Pate or Harum Manis Cheese Cake; this frozen dark chocolate ice cream, topped with vanilla ice cream and caramel pop corn, is a perfect way to end the evening meal.
URBAN
WHERE
Hotel Istana KL
73 Jalan Raja Chulan, KL
TEL 03-2141 9988
OPENING HOURS
Weekday: Noon to 2.30pm; 6.30pm to 10.30pm
Saturday: 6.30pm to 10.30pm
Sunday and public holidays: Closed
GETTING THERE: Along Jalan Raja Chulan
WHAT’S COOKING: Modern western cuisine
MUST TRY: Roasted venison loin and Manjari Semi Freddo
YOU’LL PAY: RM150 nett (3-course set dinner), RM210 nett (Gourmet Specials set dinner)
ATMOSPHERE: Quiet, modern chic
SERVICE: Attentive
OVERALL VERDICT: Must try