HAVE you ever had steamed white rice with durian, the (some say smelly) tropical fruit that looks like a medieval weapon? Or Tabasco sauce with almost everything, including chocolate ice-cream.
Exclude the most bizarre exotic foodstuff, we would have, at some point or another, come across different and unusual food combinations that either excite the palate or just kill the appetite.
Here, where we enjoy diverse flavours from different cuisines and influences, local chefs aren’t afraid to experiment with new ways of cooking and using all kinds of ingredients to pique the interest of urban diners who are always on the lookout for something different.
Being creative and bold in his approach to cooking, Chef Raymond Tham of Skillet@163, Fraser Place, Kuala Lumpur, strives to create a whole new dining experience. With a menu that changes regularly according to seasonal ingredients and special occasions, dining in Skillet@163 is an eye-opener for those seeking pleasant surprises as they dine. But Chef Tham doesn’t stop at just a little surprise.
“I’m constantly inspired by ingredients that I pick up through my travels. Some of the dishes here take over three months to develop before they’re served in the restaurant,” shares Tham, adding that local traditional food also gives him inspiration.
Pointing to the Duo of Wagyu dish, Tam explains that it’s inspired by the classic beef bourguignon and lor bak, a deep-fried meaty five-spiced roll commonly found in Penang.
As he pushes the boundaries of his cooking, the restaurant’s latest menu for 2017 is an epic storm of food combinations and unique cooking styles.
Just check out the Alaskan King crab served with kedondong granite, an item that immediately piques my interest.
Alaskan King crab is usually steamed or baked with perennial herbs, or poached to retain its fresh and pure crustacean taste. The kedondong, commonly known as ambra by Penangites, is usually made into a refreshing thirst quencher. It has a sour aftertaste but perfect when mixed with asam boi (preserved plum).
GREAT AWAKENING
When eaten individually, there is nothing special. Eaten in unison, you end up with a unique harmony of hot and cold, with a hint of freshness from the succulent crab and ambra. There’s a play of texture as fresh Ikura (salmon roe) is popped into the mouth, oozing with a pleasant savoury taste.
As a dish that was created by accident, Tham reveals that the King Crab was something new to his collection of recipes in recent years. Smiling, he confides that it triggered his desire to unearth more extraordinarily – inspired creations, which combine familiar ingredients and cooking methods in the most unpredictable way.
Kicking off the culinary adventure is the Homecured Salmon with Osmanthus. “This dish plays with the elements of the traditional yee sang, or prosperity toss commonly served during Chinese New Year. As a start to a new year, I want to present a dish that represents abundance, wealth and vigour,” says Tham.
The presentation looks nothing like the typical yee sang. But that’s to be expected when dining at Skillet@163 where surprise is the feature.
On the plate is a block of beautifully cured salmon underneath a bed of green apple, diced jellyfish, taro hair and finely julienned kaffir lime leaves, served with frozen pomelo (-196°C using liquid nitrogen). Tham pairs this combo with Osmanthus jelly or commonly known as gwai fa gou. Strangely, the dish is light and refreshing with a zesty fragrance from the kefir lime and plum dressing, as well as a lovely mixture of texture from the fish, the chewy jelly, crispy taro and frozen pomelo.
The chef uses icy-looking leaf buds to garnish the dish for a touch of green. He explains: “These are called ice plant or ficoide glaciale. The leaves naturally have an icy texture and provide a tinge of saltiness to the dish.”
Other interesting creations include the black chicken and foie gras dumplings, kampung egg yolk pasta and sous vide herbal chicken, which are mostly Chinese inspired but served in a modern European style.
DINING WITH GOLD
The utterances of oohs and aahs begin to reverberate in the room as the Truffles & Gold is served. Some may say it is just risotto served in a clay pot, similar to the local claypot chicken rice. In this particular offering, the most unorthodox ingredient is the 24K edible gold.
Interest piqued, I examine the contents of the dish and give them a good stir. The risotto — cooked perfectly — is covered in gooey soft-boiled kampung egg and tastes absolutely exquisite paired with the Grana Padano cheese and truffles.
Wondering whether Tham could possibly better this dish, the chef surprises me again with his final “party trick”.
“Here’s the Texture of Chocolate, inspired by a Chinese New Year favourite, the pineapple tart,” says the chef, eyes sparkling, as chilly smoke wafts over his masterpiece, a dessert to die for.
He continues to pour more liquid nitrogen into the vibrant yellow sphere coated in 24K edible gold leaves. Served in an antique 50-year-old plate decorated with peonies in pink and blue, the golden chocolate sphere is filled with roasted spiced pineapple and lime-infused pineapple popcorn made using liquid nitrogen.
It’s a tradition for patrons of Skillet@163 to partake in the theatrics of the meals served. With the Texture of Chocolate, customers are given a metal mallet to smash the sphere, producing an explosion of textures and flavours. And the gold — if you’re still wondering — is simply a glorious feast for the eyes and Instagram nuts. Suffice to say, eating gold remains the height of gastronomical excess.
Ancient Egyptians believed that by eating gold, one could become immortal. So, if you happen to find yourself nibbling on slivers of gold, just take a moment to reflect: You may have just attained immortality!