For Malay cuisine, we usually head for the warung but Tan Bee Hong gets a taste of classic dishes in an elegant ambience
WITH promises of a fabulous view on the 39th floor and a taste of traditional Malay cooking in air-conditioned comfort without making a hole in the wallet, it is hard to resist making a trip to PNB Perdana Hotel & Suites On The Park, Kuala Lumpur.
An ongoing promotion at The 39 Restaurant offers my favourite nasi kerabu with chicken curry at only RM30 nett. It’s available daily for both lunch and dinner too.
As its name implies, the restaurant is located on the 39th floor of the hotel, so naturally, it offers a great view of the city skyline. In the evenings, customers enjoy sitting al fresco at the tables right outside the restaurant.
Nasi kerabu is a rice salad dish that’s particularly popular in Kelantan. Tinged blue, the rice is served with shredded herbs and vegetables as well as beansprouts. Toss everything well with the chilli sambal and budu (fish sauce) for a deliciously healthy meal.
The rice comes with half a salted egg, solok lada (stuffed chilli), a whole chicken leg in curry gravy and fish crackers which you can crumble into the rice for extra flavour.
You can’t go wrong with satay as an appetiser but what catches my eye in the menu is Cucur Udang Raja Sehari (RM30). These prawn fritters are very much a home-cooked item and rarely served even at the warung (roadside stall).
When it arrives, my jaws drop at the size of the battered and deepfried king prawn. It looks as big as my clenched palm. I am even happier when I realise the chef has considerately peeled the crustacean for easy eating. The “throne” for this “king” is an equally huge onion fritter that’s as delicious as I hoped. The cucur is served with peanut dip and sweet chilli sauce. Mix both up for that yummilicious edge.
There are also seafood and kerabu dishes such as baked scallops and wild fern salad.
Of the vegetable dishes, Asparagus Telunjuk (RM20) shines. Though initially, the aroma of belacan (fermented prawn paste) threatens to dominate, this is tempered somewhat by the refreshing taste of the asparagus and the use of plenty of garlic and shallots.
You’ll love the soups (RM30). There’s mutton, chicken, fish and tender beef ribs. The Tulang Rawan Pelaga is a spicy beef soup with cubes of potato, carrot and spring onions.
The crispy fried grouper (RM50) is a treat. It’s topped with green chilli sambal as well as kailan and fruit acar. The fish is well fried to retain its juiciness and the sambal gives it a real kick.
Ayam Golek Kuah Percik (RM50) is a healthy portion of grilled marinated chicken breast with a lashing of creamy percik sauce. Wish there is more of the sauce though.
Kambing Kurma Tiga Rusuk (RM60) is served with a mild kurma sauce. The three lamb chops come with slices of eggplant and while the sauce is delicious, I thought the meat a tad on the dry side.
All main dishes come with rice.
39 RESTAURANT
WHERE: Level 39, PNB Perdana Hotel & Suites On The Park
10 Jalan Binjai, Kuala Lumpur
TEL: 03-7490 3939
OPENING HOURS: Daily. Lunch: 12.30pm to 3pm. Dinner: 6.30pm to 10.30pm
GETTING THERE: Just off Jalan Ampang
WHAT’S COOKING: Traditional Malay cuisine
MUST TRY
YOU’LL PAY: RM30 nett for nasi kerabu with chicken curry
ATMOSPHERE: Elegant
THE LOO: Clean
SERVICE OK
OVERALL VERDICT: Go give it a try