Switzerland, much more than snow

In the first half of his weeklong train journey through Switzerland, Andrew Drummond Law explores the medieval and modern attractions of this natural beauty

SHE flutters her long black eyelashes, while passing me on the roadside. I am drown inside her large gentle eyes. Her hips swaying from side to side as she walks off into the distance. With a large colourful flower headdress, she is a true Swiss beauty.

And it is cows like her that produce the finest milk in the world. With a large bell hanging from her neck, sounding off as she walks, hundreds more will follow in her footsteps that morning.

I am at the Alpine cattle descent in Charmey in the Canton of Fribourg, in western Switzerland. The annual event is held the last Saturday of every September. The tradition is known as desalpe, meaning “from the Alps”, in this French-speaking part of the country.

After 120 days grazing in the higher alpine pastures, in autumn they are brought down into the warmer valleys, to shelter from the coming harsh weather.

The Swiss herdsmen, or armaillis, are dressed in traditional bredzon outfits of a dark coloured short puff-sleeved jacket with edelweiss flowers embroidered on the collar, and worn over a long-sleeved shirt.

They carry a traditional small leather shoulder pouch, a loyi, containing salt for the cows, and grease for the milkers’ hands stored inside hollowed out cow horns.

While the women wear their dzaquillon traditional outfit of a short puff-sleeved blouse under a sleeveless and flared dress, matched with a brightly coloured apron.

All carry a walking stick. Their only modern clothing item is the latest in tough Alpine footwear.

It is a fun family event with stalls selling wooden carvings, handicrafts, food and drink, and cheese-making demonstrations.

Look out for the Alp horn players accompanied with the flag waver. Over three meters long, these wooden wind instruments were originally used to call the cows in from pasture at milking time. And for the Alps men to communicate with villagers down in the valley.

Their deep tones are a calming experience as they play in unison, entertaining the crowd.

But all the fresh air has made me hungry. What better to eat than a carb-loaded lunch of pasta with a creamy cheese sauce, followed by sweet meringues, served with double cream for dessert at L’Etoile restaurant.

Its outside patio with long wooden dining tables and benches overlooks the cobbled street, where you can watch the cows pass by.

Milk is also the key ingredient for the country’s most sinful export.

IN SEARCH OF WILLY WONKA

The Maison Caillier chocolate factory located in Broc is an unforgettable family trip. But arrive early to avoid the long queue.

Learn about the finest sources of cacao that are mixed with Swiss milk, making the highest quality chocolate.

Walk through the interactive exhibits showing how chocolate developed from being a gift of the Gods during Aztec times, to a luxury item produced locally.

There is even an automated production line where you see it being made and packaged. Learn how it must look, sound, smell, feel, taste and also have that perfect after-taste, before becoming a top quality product.

The proof is in the tasting and it is no coincidence that the biggest crowds were around the free chocolate samples, and the gift store with its many tasty options.

Need to burn off those calories? Spend a couple of days exploring the beautiful medieval city of Fribourg.

MEDIEVAL AND MODERN

Located 28km from Bern, the best view is from the top of Saint Nicholas Cathedral. The nearly 530-year-old Gothic style building has a 74-meter high tower reachable by climbing up 365 steep steps. Pace yourself and feel that burn!

From the top you look down onto the Sarine River and the contrasting medieval and modern neighbourhoods.

It is one of the most beautiful and picturesque heritage cities I have visited. With a thick layer of snow I imagine it to be picture perfect during wintertime.

There’s even a little tourist train that explores the medieval town’s narrow cobbled streets full of roadside cafes, restaurants, and artisanal stores.

If the weather takes a turn for the worse, or you just feel like an art gallery fix, there is the Museum Espace Jean Tinguely.

It exhibits the work of French-American New Realist model, turned sculptor, painter and filmmaker, Niki de Saint Phalle.

Most famous for her primary coloured and voluptuous Les Nanas (French slang for women) female form sculptures, she is also known for creating art by shooting guns at bags of paint that explode onto the canvas.

Having read up on her and learnt of her traumatic childhood — raped and abused by her father from age 11 — I begin to understand the source of the implicit messages in her “artist versus warrior” approach to art.

This outspoken critic was constantly challenging society’s norms, such as the suppression of women within a patriarchal society.

In the 1980s she raised awareness to help those being socially excluded because of HIV/AIDS. Projects included colourful condom-shaped sculptures, and in 1987 she wrote and illustrated a book called AIDS: You Can’t Catch It Holding Hands, as part of a prevention campaign.

If you like the avant-garde and want to dig deeper into an artist’s fascinating life, please visit. Art can take many shapes and forms. High quality food, for example.

QUALITY DINING

In Fribourg the L’Hotel de Ville is a must-visit restaurant. Awarded 16 Gault Millau (GM) points out of a possible 20, my dinner there is mouth-watering. GM is a very influential guide founded by two restaurant critics in 1965.

I’m served an appetiser of monkfish wrapped in rye bread, watermelon, confit of aubergine and king prawns with chorizo.

Followed by Angus beef, shallots, mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. All completed with a dessert of mille-feuille pastry with raspberry mouse.

Quality ingredients, contrasting flavours, different textures and an array of colours, coupled with excellent presentation and service — a reservation is a must for this popular restaurant.

For a more traditional Swiss meal, visit Gruyere.

FONDUE FUN

The medieval walled castle town is best known for producing that tasty gooey cheese used in a fondue, or melted into a golden brown layer on top of your French onion soup.

The Chalet de Gruyeres restaurant is a traditional wooden building with interior and waiting service to match — an authentic Swiss dining experience.

A fondue is a main course to be shared with friends — melted cheese kept warm in a communal shallow fondue pot on a slow burner. Using special long fondue forks you dip your bread inside the cheese, then place it onto your plate and eat the cheese-covered bread. I warn you, it is addictive. And there is an art to its creation.

A fondue moitie-moitie (half-half in French) is Gruyere cheese mixed with a second type, such as Vacherin Fribourgeois cheese. The pot is lined with garlic for added flavour, while white wine and a kirsch (fruit brandy) is often used for that added special taste.

Don’t be surprised if that delicious smell of cheese follows you for the rest of the day.

Close to the restaurant is the Chateau St Germain, housing the HR Giger museum. It is the former home of the artist that won an Academy Award for best visual effects in the 1979 movie Alien.

Its terrifying and dark exhibits are truly juxtaposed within this charming medieval walled town.

Walking around Gruyere’s 13th Century castle and its grounds will take you back to a time of Counts and Kingdoms as you take in its exhibits, multimedia show and relics of the past.

INTERLAKEN’S NATURAL BEAUTY

For some good old-fashioned romance, head for Giessbach Waterfalls and stay at the secluded and beautifully restored 19th Century Grand Hotel Giessbach.

You’ll need to catch the ferry to cross Lake Brienz, followed by a small funicular train with its 345-meter rail line up 104m to the hotel.

It is a beautiful and peaceful setting: the surrounding forest and mountains, the turquoise blue lake, and the waterfall “curtain” that you can walk behind. Perfect for walks with your loved one.

For a romantic sunset view, visit Interlaken’s highest mountain, the Harder Kulm, and have dinner there. Reachable with an eight-minute funicular train journey, it is 1322 metres above sea level.

On a clear day you can also see the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau summits. But are you brave enough to step onto the viewing platform that seems to float mid-air?

From that vantage point you can truly appreciate Switzerland’s unlimited natural beauty: The peaks reaching for the sky, the deep green forests, and flat as glass, bright blue lakes. Best of all? The clean, fresh air.

All are complemented with a world-class transport system, and hospitality that achieves that fine line between professionalism and a personal touch.

Next week, the writer makes chocolate, visits the Emosson Dam, sees Europe’s largest underground lake, and explores a vineyard.

TRAVEL FILE

THE Swiss Travel Pass is an all-in-one ticket for travel by road, rail and water throughout the country. There are many bonus benefits, such as free access to more than 490 museums.

Passes are for unlimited travel for three, four, eight or 15 consecutive days. For prices, timetables and different routes, visit www.sbb.ch.

DIRECTORY

• Hotel Alpha, Friebourg: www.alpha-hotel.ch

• Hotel Du Nord, Interlaken: www.hotel-dunord.ch

• Fribourg: www.fribourgtourism.ch

• Caillier chocolate factory, Broc: https://cailler.ch/en/maison-cailler/la-chocolaterie-suisse/

• Restaurant L’Etoile, Charmey: www.etoile.ch

• Nikki de St Phalle, Espace Jean Tinguely: www.fr.ch/mahf

• L’Hotel de Ville restaurant, Fribourg: www.restaurant-hotel-de-ville.ch

• Gruyeres Castle: www.chateau-gruyeres.ch

• Fondue restaurant: www.chalet-gruyeres.ch

• HR Giger Museum: www.hrgigermuseum.com