Her initial reason for visiting Otaru is its famous canal but Rebecca Ilham ends up enthralled by the trains in the railway museum
HOKKAIDO, the northernmost prefecture of Japan, is known for its port cities, a unique feature that a trip to experience the essence of this island is considered incomplete without an excursion to at least one of them.
Thus on my second morning in Sapporo, the biggest city in Hokkaido, I hop on the Japan Railway (JR) Hakodate Main Line train, heading for Otaru.
The aged, yet sturdy JR coaches gently snake along the track that mapped the sea line itself, treating me to unobstructed views of the pristine Sea of Japan, a foreshadow of what is to come.
It is a beautiful day when I arrive at Otaru Station half an hour later. The sky is azure blue without a spot of cloud, while the summer sun is out in full force.
My priority is to get to Otaru’s most famous feature — its canal. Even though Otaru today is a small, old town facing the Ishikari Bay, historically it was a port city that thrived on sea trade with foreign countries back in the early 20th century, particularly with its closest neighbour Russia.
The canal was originally built as a mechanism for smaller ships to transport goods from large vessels to warehouses but was later abandoned when modern dock facilities were available.
It was then slated to be landfilled but Otaru’s citizens petitioned for the canal to be restored. As a result, since the 1980s, the canal ha
s become a defining sight of Otaru, with a row of refurbished old brick warehouses that housed museums, while shops and restaurants forms a neat line of attractions next to it.
Visitors flock in in abundance just to take a stroll along this charming, romantic spot and that is also my very intention.
There are a few ways to get to the canal from the station but along with most passengers, I opt for the short walk downhill in the direction of the sea.
It is an excellent decision as I cross path with the track of the first train line in Hokkaido along the way. The Temiya-sen (Temiya Line), which used to run from Otaru to Sapporo to transport coal, has been fully abandoned since 1985 but some parts are preserved due to its significance in the development of Hokkaido transportation system.
The 510m-long preserved section is actually purchased by Otaru City Municipal Administration from Japan Railway and is designated as an open space, where events such as Otaru Garasu City (to promote glass products, a specialty of the area) and Otaru Yuki Akari no Michi (Otaru Snow Light Path Festival) are regularly conducted in summer and winter respectively.
The section is also meticulously maintained and beautified, with flower beds, benches and an imitation of an old station are installed, creating little pockets of park that are enjoyed by the local community and visitors alike.
RAILWAY MUSEUM
If I think that is the extent of my encounter with trains in Otaru, then I am greatly mistaken. The massive crowd along the short, narrow pathway along the canal leading to its main plaza, dampens my enthusiasm for a quiet, solitary walk. Hence, I take the path opposite from my initial destination. It is still along the canal, but without repurposed old buildings, it certainly looks a lot less interesting.
The pathway ends at an interesting gated park-like area, where a huge train wheel greets visitors at its entrance. I have no intention of entering but my curiosity is piqued upon seeing various train coaches being exhibited in the open area. I have unintentionally arrived at the Otaru Railway Museum.
The museum’s outdoor exhibits are not foreigner-friendly as almost all information is in Japanese. However, the great joy of strolling leisurely and peeking through the windows of various train coaches on display transcends languages.
These are real coaches, used in past decades in all over Hokkaido. Some are even opened for visitors to walk through, thus I relish the opportunity, admiring the retro interior design while imagining the exotic journeys they have made from destination signage on their outer walls.
While most of these trains ran on electricity, there are a few steam engine models, fuelled by coal such as the massive, mean-looking snow plough trains used to clear the rail tracks during winter.
However, the one that makes me feel truly nostalgic is a steam locomotive engine that runs through the short track in the museum ground.
Visitors can take a ride on the attached carriage (it runs three times a day) and be whisked away from the one “station” to the next and back.
That already rare experience is then topped with witnessing the process of turning the steam engine around using an old-styled mechanical rotating table!
It is also interesting to note that almost all of the train units were made by Japanese engineering firms (Mitsubishi, for instance) — a testament to the country’s capability when it comes to all things train.
After making a complete tour of the outdoor train exhibit, I make my way into the museum building.
Here, a more detailed information on Hokkaido train history is available, with a section dedicated to the American engineers behind the early development of the island’s railway system.
I am particularly fascinated with the unique memorabilia, such as train driver’s uniform over the years, old train station signage and the Temiya line diorama, on display. There is also an educational space on the second floor, primarily for schoolchildren to learn about the science behind this important mode of transportation.
Exiting the building, I make my way back towards my initial destination. Since I am already here, I figure I should at least verify what is so special about the canal.
It is indeed beautiful in a nostalgic kind of way with its old concrete bridge, warehouses with walls covered in vines and gas lanterns.
But as I leave the crowded space in search for a bowl seafood lunch (grilled salmon is always a good idea), I have to admit that it wouldn’t be my favourite memory. I did come for the canal but I am now bewitched by the trains.