A new restaurant has a menu that blows away all preconceived ideas of South Asian cuisine, writes Tan Bee Hong
IT offers “Asian food reconstructed”, so don’t expect noodles and curry. With a family foundation in the food business, young maverick Sabahan Chef Jet Lo gives his audacious signature to traditional classics at Duddha, which opened in January and overlooks the park in Suria KLCC. His menu is just freaking fabulous.
COOL IT
The menu is arranged in Cold Bites, Small Bites and Big Bites. We start with cold Deconstructed Tofu (RM26). The dish plays with the mind. To begin, the oyster sauce is in the silken tofu, which sits in daikon water, with toppings of pickled cabbage and chicken floss (which looks more like flakes of conpoy) and garlic powder. Scoop the tofu and toppings together to experience all the textures at once.
Each platter of Hamachi Tartare (RM41) has five pieces of fried roti jala nesting the cubed fish along with avocado, brown coconut, pickled ginger, pickled ginger flower and crystal green sea grapes. Also known as sea caviar, these pop between teeth, much like salmon roe. Probably best eaten all at once, but there’s just too much to fit into the mouth at one go.
When Wagyu Beef Tartare (RM78) is served with crisp papadum, I wonder why the beef looks sliced and is such a blood red hue. But it turns out to be sliced watermelon on top of the finely chopped beef mixed with a sesame dressing.
LITTLE NIBBLES
The category is Small Bites but portions can keep regular appetites satisfied. The 5 Spice Lamb Ribs (RM38), for instance, has four luscious, meaty ribs. There’s a small tube of apricot-ginger sauce (looks like a tube of toothpaste) that you squeeze out on the ribs. Lo says the ribs are first marinated 24 hours in salt and spices, sous vide for 12 hours with garlic and ginger and then deepfried. The tender ribs, practically falling off the bones, are moist, yet the meat has great texture.
Carbon Battered Lemon Sole (RM34) looks like dried sea cucumber. The fat fish fingers are coated lightly in red curry paste, dipped in a batter comprising bamboo charcoal and then deepfried. Just add a squeeze of lime and dip into the smoked garlic mayo.
Lo makes clever use of what with few chefs would dare serve customers: Chicken bones (RM29). His take on Southern fried chicken won’t leave you feeling like a beached whale. Crumbed and crispy, this makes light eating for afternoon tea or with drinks in the evening.
HEARTY
48-hour Wagyu Beef Cheek Rendang (RM79) is a tender chunk of meat with curry gravy sprinkled with puffed rice and a bowl of rice. But I prefer the Green Curry Saltwater Barramundi (RM30). The fish is topped with deepfried enoki mushroom, freshly-skinned pomelo and coconut emulsion as well as green curry gravy. The accompanying rice is cooked with beef bone marrow. Fragrant. If your diet doesn’t allow beef, ask for plain white rice.
GET HIGH ON SWEETS
“I’ll be quite happy to make a return trip for dessert.” The thought shocks me as I am not into sweets. But chef Aisyah Ramlan, 32, has some funky creations under her tudung. Drawing inspiration from “cham”, that quaint drink of tea-and-coffee, she crafts Duddha Yin&Yang (RM26). There’s ice-cream made with Kopiko candy, Thai tea, condensed milk and a sprinkle of honeycomb.
I love the Caramelised Pumpkin Rice Cake (RM22). Sliced pumpkin rolled in glutinous rice flour is deepfried and served with crisp pumpkin chips and smoked coconut ice cream with a wow-factor.
Equally intriguing is Upside Down Ondeh-Ondeh (RM18). Chinese soupspoons contain clear kuzu spheres that don’t even remotely look like the kuih. These are filled with pandan-infused water. Put everything in the mouth and feel the kuzu burst to combine with gula Melaka, coconut oil powder and finally, a flake of dried sambal.
DUDDHA (pork-free)
G48, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2166 2257
Website: duddha.com.my
HOURS Daily, 10am to 11pm
FOOD Asian Food Reconstructed
PICK 5 Spice Lamb Ribs and Caramelised Pumpkin Rice Cake
PAY From RM18 to RM78
MOOD Chic
SERVICE Attentive
I SAY Must try