Nagoya is dull and boring? Rebecca Ilham, who took part in the Nagoya Women’s Marathon 2017, debunks this perception
WHO in their right mind would travel to a city voted the most boring in the country?
Nagoya, a city in the Chubu (central) region of Japan’s main island, has never presented a strong enough temptation for me to warrant a visit. I have changed trains at its main station on my way to the hidden valley of Takayama once and am contented to leave my connection to the city at that.
Yet, when the application for the Nagoya Women’s Marathon opens, I have no hesitation in signing up.
As the home ground of the reliable automobile manufacturer Toyota and exquisite ceramic ware Noritake, Nagoya is essentially an industrial city.
It is commonly perceived to be not as lively as its western neighbour Osaka, or as modern as the eastern capital, Tokyo, despite its strategic, central location that is conveniently accessible via the shinkansen (bullet train).
Guiltily swayed, I do not plan for a long trip. Besides, isn’t a marathon, being on foot for 42 kilometres for several hours, the best way to acquaint myself with the city?
Arriving on Friday night, I find my preconceived notions about Nagoya are not entirely groundless.
The subway stations are deserted even though it isn’t yet 9. Save for the round-the-clock convenience stores, all the shops’ shutters are down and locked.
Walking through the quiet, scarcely lit residential alleys towards my place of stay in Osu is an uncomfortable affair. I could only hope that daylight would reveal the more charming sides of the city.
WALKING OFF THE EXCITEMENT
I am not disappointed. On my morning walk the day before the marathon, I stumble upon Shirakawa Park, a public space that housed two prominent museums: the Nagoya Science Museum and the Nagoya City Art Museum.
The Science Museum is hard to miss due to the giant, largest-in-the-world spherical-shaped planetarium (measuring 35 metres in diameter), enticing curious visitors of all ages to wander in.
Powered by photovoltaic cells that converts solar rays into electricity, visitors to this green museum are also treated to exhibits of its earthquake-proof system and unique elevator system.
Meanwhile the Art Museum, a work of renowned architect Kisho Kurakawa, is not only an interesting building that serves both utilitarian and aesthetic purposes, but is also home to impressive artworks such as paintings Modigliani, Utrillo, Laurencin, Fujita and Chagall of the L’Ecole de Paris art movement.
The promise of an exciting trip is further enhanced when I get to Nagoya Dome for the runner’s check-in to collect my race bib.
The arena is the home ground of Chunichi Dragons, Nagoya’s baseball team. In yakkyu (baseball)-mad Japan, this means that the building is an important landmark. Its structure is built in a geometric design called geodesic, giving it a polish, futuristic look.
Apart from hosting baseball matches and Nagoya Women’s Marathon since opening its doors in 1997, the 40,500 capacity dome is also a popular concert venue.
I remember considering getting a ticket for an Arashi (a Japanese boy band) concert here a couple of years ago.
See, I chide myself, maybe Nagoya knows how to have fun after all.
The lively atmosphere at the runner’s check-in and Nagoya Women’s Marathon Expo on Saturday is a premonition of what is to come on race day.
It has been recognised as the largest female-only full marathon event in the world by the Guinness Book of Record since 2012, and this year — with 19,607 runners taking part — is no exception.
Hence the logistic arrangements deserve a shower of praises. Despite the sea of runners, I manage to sneak into my corral (assigned based on expected finish time during registration) after depositing my baggage at the designated area and using the portable toilet after a 40-minute queue just before we are allowed to start running eight minutes after the first gun.
RUNNING ALL THE DISTANCE
I have no expectation to do well. My main goal is to finish with a decent time (hopefully not more than five hours 30 minutes), and have a good time achieving it.
Thus I am set to enjoy my fellow runners, hardworking volunteers, cheery spectators and sights along the route.
The race course, which is certified by Japan Association of Athletics Federation (JAAF) and holds the International Association of Athletics Federation (IAAF) Gold Label, weaves through Nagoya city streets, passing the city’s many landmarks.
One of them is the hard-to-miss Nagoya City Museum, at about the 5km mark. It commands attention due to its minimalist, rectangular external bare concrete exterior.
Built to commemorate the population of the city reaching the two million mark in 1977, the museum is primarily the source of information on the history of the Owari area, an old province that encompasses modern-day Aichi prefecture, including where Nagoya City is now located.
It also has an exquisite, beautiful Japanese-styled garden in its forecourt, clearly visible from the street.
It’s impossible to find a Japanese city without a skyscraper with an observation deck.
In Nagoya, that novelty is no other than the Nagoya TV Tower. It isn’t exactly right by the marathon route, but due to its 180-metre height, the tower provides a nice backdrop for runners to stop for a photo op at around the 18km mark.
Being the oldest of its kind in Japan (it was built in 1954), the Nagoya TV Tower has been “destroyed” twice — by Godzilla — in movies Monthra vs. Godzilla (1964) and its remake 28 years later. Interesting, isn’t it?
Just before reaching the halfway mark, the route splits into two parallel lanes. The right lane I am in passes a familiar spot from the day before, while the one on the left leads straight into the heart of Shirakawa Park.
There is a jolly commotion going on; spectators are screaming and volunteers are clapping wildly.
Glancing sideways, I notice that the lead runner of the men’s half marathon category is sprinting towards the finisher ribbon up ahead.
A few minutes later, I witness the champion for the past two years, Eunice Kirwa of Bahrain, sprinting in the opposite lane. She is closely tailed by Yuka Ando, a local athlete running her very first marathon. They eventually claim both the top and second spots - Kirwa renews the course record, while Ando emerges as the fourth-fastest female Japanese marathoner to-date.
Ando also clears the 2017 London World Championship qualification time sets by JAAF and makes it into the national marathon team.
As for myself, I am having a great day of running. The sun is out but the cool late winter breeze dampens the heat.
The spectators, young and old, are amazing, and I am greatly encouraged by their high-spirited cheers of “Ganbare!” and “Fighting!”.
Despite earlier apprehension, the first 10km is completed under an hour. I reach the 20km mark in slightly less than two hours. My time at halfway is two hours seven minutes, a personal best at that distance.
Suddenly, the prospect of finishing below five hours seems highly achievable.
But as seasoned marathoners would always caution, the worst is yet to come.
I find myself stressed out during the next 10 kilometres. Thankfully, distractions are aplenty, such as Osu Kannon, an ancient Buddhist temple in the centre of the city.
Originally built in the Gifu Prefecture during the Kamakura Period, it was moved to its current location by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612 due to recurring severe flooding.
The main building of this traditional complex, perfectly photogenic with vermillion beams and pillars, is home to the statue of the Goddess of Mercy (kannon) and a library with a collection of more than 15,000 classical Japanese and Chinese texts.
It may not be a grandiose landmark in term of scale, but offers a much-appreciated connection to the past, explaining its popularity among domestic and foreign visitors.
Nagoya Castle and the City Hall both come into view before the 30km mark. They are starkly different in architecture and construction, but both have prominent roles in the administration of the region and the city.
The castle was constructed by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612 during the Edo era to serve as his stronghold in defending the Tokaido road, while the City Hall is the centre of modern administration.
Both tower above the city, as if protecting its citizens with their silent watchful eyes.
I make my last turn and head back to Nagoya Dome. The race becomes more bearable after the 32km mark. At this point, I am confident about finishing under five hours. To be honest, a new personal best is also not entirely wishful thinking.
However, I do not want it to cloud my judgment. Instead, I allow myself to soak in the unwavering enthusiasms of the crowd and volunteers. Apart from urging runners to carry on, they are generously handing out drinks and snacks.
I rehydrate and refuel myself as needed and thank them as I go. After all, besides sacrificing their time, they have open-heartedly allowed us runners to “invade” their city for a day, halting weekend routines and regular businesses.
Thus as I approach the finish line inside the dome, I couldn’t help rebuking myself on my biased preconceived perception about the city.
How can it be boring, especially upon finishing, when there’s a handsome guy in black tuxedo waiting to hand me my Tiffany’s finisher pendant on a silver platter?
Nagoya does know how to have fun, and fun I have running the whole 42.195 kilometres throughout the city in a personal best time of 4:40:50!
A RACE WORTH TRAVELLING FOR
What Nagoya Women’s Marathon
When 9.10 on the second Sunday of every March. Application opens in early September the year prior. It has a cut-off time of seven hours.
Where Start/Finish in Nagoya Dome.
Cost JPY 11, 000 (RM438)
Entitlement/Prize: Tiffany & Co. finisher pendant, finisher towel, finisher tank top and other sponsored products.