Skatewear is gaining traction among local fans, writes Nadia Badarudin
AT the 2016 Paris Fashion Week, Dior Homme showcased its Autumn/Winter collection on a runway with neon-lit skateboard ramps, reflecting a nod by the world of high-end fashion of the gritty subculture of skateboarding which started from the streets.
While this has irked those who think their culture is being ripped off, it has set a trend for fashion houses turning to skateboarders and streetwear for inspiration.
The fashion world’s fascination with skateboarding culture has resulted in skateboarders either forming their own labels or making crossover to high-end fashion. One such personality is Virgil Abloh, founder of streetwear brand Off-White, who now helms Louis Vuitton’s men’s wear.
Professional skateboarders Alex Olson and Eli Reed run boutique brands while Blondey McCoy was the breakthrough star at last year’s London Fashion Week.
This crossover trend is picking up in the local fashion scene too.
SKATEWEAR VS STREETWEAR
In Malaysia, the hype started in Kuala Lumpur in 1983 following a Milo television commercial featuring children skateboarding, says skateboarder Johary Fitry Khairuddin, also known as Joe Ipoh, 46.
Johary, who has been in the scene for 30 years, was the first skateboarder to represent Malaysia at the Asian X-Games in 1999.
“The term streetwear originates from the skateboarding culture because of the nature of skateboarding itself - it’s mainly played on the streets,” says Johary, on defining the line between streetwear and skatewear.
He trains newbies and runs The G-hard Pro Shop in Bukit Kiara, Kuala Lumpur. Besides skateboard decks and accessories, he retails basic skatewear items like T-shirts and shoes under his own label, G-hard.
“The culture comes with its own music and fashion. Fashion-wise, it’s all about the skateboarder’s personality, style preferences and influences.
“The style crossover helps promotes skateboarding brands and brings it to a new level,” says Johary, citing H-street, Santa Cruz, Powell Peralta, Emerica and Vans as among skateboarders’ favoured labels.
COMFORT AND PRACTICALITY
Skateboarding labels usually focus on skateboard decks and accessories and carries very basic and limited ready-to-wear collections, mainly T-shirts, pants, hoodies, caps and shoes.
A majority of the homegrown skateboarding labels such as G-hard are founded by skateboarders. The reason is simple — they understand the needs and wants of fellow skateboarders.
Hellbent is a brand which has been blazing a trail in the local circle since 2010. The Semenyih-based label is synonymous with metal style skateboarding T-shirts in black featuring its iconic “peace from hell” logo as well as designs that metal music enthusiasts can relate to.
“The skateboarding scene is the only avenue where young and old who listen to metal, punk or hip-hop can skate together and learn tricks from each other.
“This diversity offers potential for business ventures like fashion,” says skateboarder turned entrepreneur Abdulazeez Wan Ruslan, 32.
Abdulazeez is the mastermind behind Hellbent as well as skatewear brands Knockout and Maker Premium. His premises in Semtec Park in Semenyih houses a small facility to make the clothing, an indoor skatepark and FortyFive Skateshop that retails various brands including Gnarlife, a local brand which is growing in popularity.
“We cater to different tastes. For instance, Hellbent is for skateboarders who are metalheads while Knockout is for hip-hop fans,” he says.
Meanwhile, Maker Premium caters to custom orders.
The main strength of all three brands is that they are made by skateboarders, says Abdulazeez.
“Skatewear is about comfort and practicality. Having a team of skateboarders in the production makes it easier to understand customers’ needs,” he says.
“We’ve produced shoes that withstand impact better than ordinary shoes as well as trousers with hidden pockets for skateboarders to keep their personal belongings while they skate.
“Our T-shirt, for instance, has slightly longer hem compared to a standard T-shirt. This is meant for skateboarders who want to avoid embarrassing incidents like exposed boxer shorts while skating,” he adds.
UP A NOTCH
Similar to the progress of skateboarding-related fashion scene at the global level, the Malaysian circuit is also seeing living legends taking it up a notch in the name of fashion.
Ahmad Fadzil Musa, fondly known as Pa’Din Musa, collaborated with American skateboarding apparel Vans to roll out Pa’Din Musa Signature Colourway in December last year.
The collection, which received overwhelming response, comprises two models inspired by Ahmad Fadzil’s passion and personality off the skateboard ramp.
“The shoes reflect my passion in vintage and custom-built motorcycles,” says the 42-year-old icon from Penang, who owns Abah & Sons. The brand is known for its garage-style cafe (located in Sungai Besi, Kuala Lumpur) and skateboarding merchandise as well as custom-built motorcycles.
The black and citrus coloured shoes are inspired by Harley-Davidson’s racing jacket of the 1940s and zebra-crossings, says Ahmad Fadzil.
“The shoes feature a pattern similar to the tyre tread of my custom -built motorcyles. What makes them extra special are the insoles, which are printed with “pantun” (a four-line Malay poem) written by my sons, Faheem and Fayyad,” he says, citing Bandung-based FMC Speed Supply as his favourite skateboarding label.
MOST ‘STYLO’ SKATEBOARDER
Muhammad Nizar Hashim a.k.a. Ja Chicken is another icon who is making waves not only for his talent but also for his fashion flair.
The 29-year-old was one of the four personalities chosen by Converse for its newly-revived One Star shoes campaign in March.
He was also the Malaysian ambassador for Fred Perry x Thames capsule collection in April. Thames is a label founded by British skateboarder Blondey McCoy.
The Shah Alam skateboarder, who runs Krookz KL skateshop in Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur, is popular for his eclectic fashion mix that matches his fearless attitude.
“Fashion is subjective. I don’t like to conform and wear whatever I want, regardless of what people say,” says Muhammad Nizar, who has been in the scene for 17 years.
Rather than sticking to the standard black and white preferred by most skateboarders, he goes for vibrant and bold colours. For him, a black-and-white ensemble is boring.
“I wear football jerseys and denim to skate. I love to mix and match and go for brands with a rebellious attitude, something that reflects my personality,” he says.
While some skateboarders want skatewear to be exclusive and want the fashion crowd (or poseurs, as they claim) to stop wearing skateboarding-related merchandise, Muhammad Nizar thinks otherwise.
“In 2016, Rihanna and Justin Bieber were slammed for wearing Thrasher skateboarding magazine tops. But I think there’s nothing wrong with that.
“That gives us good exposure and publicity. It can generate newfound interest among those who know nothing about the game, its related cultures and brands.
“For me, skateboarding fashion should not be confined to those who skate,” says Muhammad Nizar, who has modelled for several Malaysian streetwear brands including Super Sunday.
LOCAL BRANDS
Still clueless about skatewear? Check out these top Malaysian brands to get some ideas.
1.quit.kL (Instagram: @quit.kl)
2.Sibling Skateboards (Instagram: @siblingskateboard)
3.Santai Skateboards (@santai_skateboards)
4.Rumorsskate (@rumorsskate)
5.Gnarlife (@gnarlifeofficial)