Throwing off its dull duty-free image, the island earns Zulkifly Ab Latif’s praises for its rich marine life
The boat slowly glides through the narrow river and passes a large warehouse that supplies oil field equipment. there are shipping containers neatly stacked along the river bank.
Further up near the river’s mouth that empties into the sea, I can see clearly against the night starless sky a large flame roaring and dancing atop a steel tower - the flare stack of a methanol processing plant.
Beyond it, out in the vast ocean, the distant lights of shipping vessels flicker while the even brighter lights of the many off shore oil platforms are visibly reflected on the water’s surface.
I am somewhere in the waters near Tanjung Rancha Rancha, a promontory in the Federal Territory of Labuan, located off the northern shore of Sabah.
The sights and sounds I’ve seen so far as the little boat bobs up and down on the water surface reaffirm Labuan’s status as a major oil and gas hub in the region, but I am here not for its oil or gas. But for its anchovies.
NETTING THE ANCHOVIES
“We’re here,” says the boatman Junaidi Abdullah as the boat pulls alongside a platform rising some five metres above the sea’s surface. Built out of nibong mangrove palms, the platform is a traditional fishing structure known as bagang, used mainly to catch anchovies and occasionally other fish.
Clambering up the side ofthe platform, I almost lose my handgrip from one of the wet slippery nibong trunks. One of Junaidi’s workers standing on the platform quickly bends down and grabs hold onto the collar of my orange life jacket, fearing I might splash down into the sea below.
“Careful, we don’t want to scare the anchovies away,” jokes Junaidi. Standing on the platform, I see the anchovies Junaidi is referring to, countless of them swirling in schools underneath the bagang attracted to the bright halogen lights powered by a portable generator.
One of five traditional bagangs operating off the coast of Tanjung Rancha-Rancha, Junaidi’s platform is called Bagang Jun Bilis, and is part of a programme by the Ministry Of Federal Territories, Malaysia and Labuan Corporation to economically empower the local community of Labuan.
Almost immediately, Junaidi signals to his four workers to begin hauling up the large fine silk-like net that has been hanging submerged under the platform. Hauled up by a system of pulleys, the net slowly rises up from the sea with the anchovies still swimming in circles oblivious until it is too late.
With the net finally fully raised, the anchovies and other species of fish trapped in it are quickly scooped up with net poles and into large wooden buckets for separation.
Junaidi and his workers work quickly sifting through the fish and tossing any undesirable species such as puffer fish back into the ocean. I join in to help, and quickly learn from Junaidi that there are more than one species of anchovies caught tonight, the most prized being the blue eyed anchovy.
Next to the wooden buckets is a large pot of sea water brought to a rolling boil.
Peculiarly, more salt is added into the pot before the anchovies are dipped into it for a few seconds until their slightly translucent body turns opaque white.
With the bagang’s night catch and anchovy boil complete, Junaidi informs me that his workers will later transport the anchovies back to his house in the water village of Kampung Rancha-Rancha Laut, where it will then be sun dried, graded and packaged.
Wet from the night’s rain and ocean waves, we make our way back towards the village’s jetty, with myself now having a deeper appreciation for one of Malaysia’s often under appreciated ingredients; the humble anchovy, without which much of this country’s local cuisine like nasi lemak would lose its deep savory and distinct taste.
DIVING FOR FISH
It is the second morning of my three-day visit to the Pearl Of Borneo and I am at the beach near Kampung Lubuk Temiang, some 3km away from the famous Labuan Bird Park.
Here I meet Asiran Jamal, decked in a black neoprene diving suit that has seen better days. Asiran is the owner of Perusahan Bubu Emas Kampung Lubuk Temiang, a small fishing enterprise that uses a method known as bubu or fishing trap.
What makes the bubu method here unique is that fishermen like Asiran use scuba diving equipment to retrieve the traps laid on the seafloor.
Joining Asiran and other bubu fishermen on his boat, we make our way out to sea. The boat’s outboard motor strains as it fights to propel the boat against large waves while I look out into the horizon and see only an endless expanse of empty ocean.
Expecting to see floating buoys or some form of flags to mark the submerged fishing traps, I see nothing on the oceans surface. I ask Asiran how does the fishermen locate their traps, and he answers by GPS equipment, some of which were supplied as aid by the Ministry of Federal Territories as part of its community empowerment programme.
“There’s almost 20 traps out there now, the farthest almost 20 nautical miles,” Asiran adds.
“We usually start fishing at 7am and only return back somewhere around two in the afternoon.”
The boat suddenly slows down to a halt, and I see another boat slowly circling an area of ocean. A man in a diving suit puts on his scuba diving equipment and deftly jumps into the sea while holding a line, disappearing under the surface for a few moments before quickly resurfacing and climbing back unto the boat.
The other fishermen pulls the line and attaches it to an electric winch, which quickly pulls the fishing trap up from under the water. The fishing trap is then tilted open, its contents such as grouper, bream, mackerel and tuna spilling out and flopping about into the boat’s fishing container.
After observing the efficient almost orchestrated way the fishermen do their Gedung Ubat, a remnant of the Japanese work for about an hour, we make our way back to land and let the other boat continue on with the day’s catch.
It is around 2pm when the boat finally returns to the beach, and it is quickly pushed onto a trailer and towed to land.
Interestingly the boat and the days catch are towed straight back to the fish stall at the village of Lubuk Temiang, where there is already a large crowd of locals, each holding a plastic basket eagerly waiting.
Having climbed on the boat as it is towed by car back to the village just for the fun of it, I’m somewhat flabbergasted when some of the waiting clients begin to climb onto the boat to pick and choose the fresh fish caught. It is an amusing scene, one that speaks volumes on how rich and abundant the waters around the island of Labuan is with marine resources.
BACK ON THE GROUND
Having built an appetite from the day’s fishing activities, I make my way to the western side of Labuan near the village of Kampung Sungai Labu, close to the historical landmark of Surrender Point where the Japanese surrendered their hold on Labuan during World War 2.
Recommended by Labuan Corporation, I discover a small stall with the whimsical name of Warung Sana Lagi, meaning There Again Stall. Stall owner Mohd Zin combines the humble Malaysian staple of nasi lemak with a seafood delicacy - the spiny lobster.
Sourced from around the waters of Labuan, diners can enjoy fresh lobster at fairly reasonable prices upon special reservation, its sweet and rich meat matching perfectly with the fragrant rice and savory
and spicy sauce.
If lobster sounds a bit too lavish, Mohd Zin also offers local dishes like fried turmeric squid or spicy prawns with petai, a type of bitter beans.
The Federal Territory of Labuan’s main and largest island is mostly flat, its terrain undulating and its highest point is only 85m above sea level. Despite this there are many points of interest for the active and
adventurous, such as a walking trail that combines historical and natural attractions near its coast.
Situated next to the famous Chimney Museum along Jalan Merdeka is the Chimney Walking Trail, a 3km route that takes visitors pass spectacular views of the South China Sea and wondrous natural rock formations like a tunnel cave near the cape of Tanjung Kubong.
Walking the trail with staffs from both the ministry and corporation, I come across Gedung Ubat, a remnant of the Japanese during World War 2 that was used to store ammunition.
Oddly shaped and built a top a cliff overlooking the sea, the structure seems to look as if it came from the set of a Lord of The Rings film, with long yellowing reeds gracefully moving with ocean’s breeze.
After burning up the calories walking up the nature trail, we head out to the city centre. Our destination is Labuan International Ferry Terminal, specifically the famous seafood restaurant called Raff Restaurant that overlooks the harbour.
We’re here to give sayur paha-paha a try, prepared by chef and owner Maria Drahman. Said to be a delicacy found only on Labuan, sayur paha-paha is a type of green leafy plant that can be prepared in a variety of ways.
Labuan locals claim that there is no known counterpart or any plant similar to it in other parts of Malaysia, which undoubtedly lends the plant and its dishes a distinct and unique allure.
Another distinct dish served by Maria is satak, a type of crustacean better known as slipper lobsters. Prepared simply by dipping into a spiced batter and fried to a golden crisp, the satak tastes something between a prawn and lobster, its flesh thick and tender when I am finally able to pry it out of its hard shell.
TRAVEL FILE
PEARL OF BORNEO
WITH so many sights and sceneries, Labuan is distinct in many ways from its other two Federal Territory sisters - Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya. Steeped in history that spans centuries and brimming with abundant nature both on land and in the ocean, Labuan is a vibrant destination unworthy of its stereotyped dull duty-free island image. The highlight of my visit here is undoubtedly seeing how the locals dependent on Labuan’s rich marine environment earn their living, and with the continued support by the Ministry of Federal Territories as well as Labuan Corporation’s community programmes, I honestly believe that Labuan’s folks will prosper and thrive.
FAST FACTS
LABUAN TOURISM
Department Of Tourism, Culture and Arts
Labuan Corporation,
Wisma Perbadanan Labuan,
Wilayah Persekutuan Labuan,
TEL 087-408 741
FAX 087-426 582
WEBSITE www.labuantourism.my
BAGANG JUNG BILIS
TEL 0111-605 0608 (Junaidi)
WARUNG SANA LAGI
TEL 0112-515 9753 (Mohd Zin)