With the influx of muslim tourists, Thailand is tapping into Islamic tourism in a big way, writes Alan Teh Leam Seng
SANEHA Restaurant’s cavernous breakfast hall is already teeming with people by the time I step inside.
Taking a seat by the ceiling to floor glass wall that offers a commanding view of downtown Hat Yai, I catch sight of an elderly man with a wispy beard quietly reciting verses of the Quran at a nearby table before tucking into a steaming bowl of noodles.
Almost immediately, I call to mind the newsletter in my Centara Hotel Hat Yai room mentioning the halal certification awarded by the Central Islamic Council of Thailand for cuisine served at the hotel’s Saneha Restaurant.
The next half hour passes by in a flash as I go all-out to sample as much of the breakfast spread as possible.
Delectable pastries, signature Thai rice salad, fluffy roti canai with vegetarian curry, freshly baked pancakes .... the list goes on and on.
After the hearty morning meal, I meet up with Santipap Salaemae, a retired government official, at the lobby area.
I made Santipap’s acquaintance several years back when we attended the same trade seminar in Kuala Lumpur.
He was visibly excited when told of my proposed visit several weeks earlier and insisted on making the 200km journey from his Narathiwat home to spend a day showing me the sights around Hat Yai.
I jumped his offer for the simple reason because, as a Muslim, Santipap will surely have first-hand knowledge of the best halal restaurants in town and that will present a golden opportunity for me to sample some delicious Muslim food.
BREAKFAST ON THE GO
Before making the 30km journey to the pristine beaches of Songkhla, we make a quick stop at Kak Sah Muslim Kitchen for Santipap to get some breakfast.
Located along Lamaisongkrew Road and close to Diyana Shopping Complex, this eating place is popular with the local community as well as Malaysian tourists.
All the nearby parking spaces are already taken by the time we arrive.
Fortunately, we managed to ease into an empty spot between two Malaysian registered buses a little further up the road.
We quicken our steps with the hope of getting a table but it was to no avail. There is not a single empty seat in sight when we arrive.
Changing tack, Santipap makes the decision to pack food for the both of us to enjoy while taking in the sights by the sea.
While waiting for him to make his selection, I grab the opportunity to have a quick look-see.
It is obvious why Kak Sah Muslim Kitchen is so popular. There are between 30 to 40 different types of tantalising dishes to choose from and judging from the price list displayed next to the counter, the food is surprisingly cheap.
Among the most popular are the grilled salted red tilapia fish which are snapped up as soon as they reach the table.
I am all smiles as Santipap has managed to get two for us.
Apart from the greens and sweet sour sauce that come with the fish, he also comes away with several salted organic duck eggs, two tubs of spicy seafood chowder, Thai fried rice and a large packet of somtam salad which is Kak Sah’s signature dish.
THE DRAGON AND THE ADMIRAL
We start tucking into the food as soon as we arrive at Laem Son On which is on the north-western part of Samila Beach.
Santipap’s selection is so delicious that I cannot help taking more than my fair share, considering the heavy breakfast consumed at the hotel just a few hours earlier.
While enjoying the delectable spread, Santipap explains that Thailand has been experiencing a huge influx of visitors from Muslim countries in the past few years.
“With more than 1.5 billion Muslims around the world, it makes good business sense for Thailand to tap into the booming Islamic tourism sector while at the same time diversify and strengthen its visitor profile,” he elaborates.
Formerly an assistant director at the Tourism Authority of Thailand office in Hat Yai, Santipap spent a large part of his working life promoting places in the country that tick all the right boxes when it comes to the stringent checklist for Muslims.
Being a Muslim, Santipap understands the importance in making sure that the things used and food eaten are permissible and give the faithful peace of mind.
After eating to our hearts’ content, both of us decide to take a leisurely walk under the shade of towering casuarina trees to work off the calories.
Nearby we come across a gigantic fountain in the shape of a Naga or dragon head which is one of the most famous tourist destinations in Songkhla.
Many tourists even draw comparisons between this mythical beast and the legendary Merlion in Singapore.
Said to symbolise both wisdom and intelligence, this monument built in 2007 serves as a place of worship for those seeking good luck, fertility and prosperity.
Strategically-positioned solar panels provide renewable energy for the Naga to continuously spray a steady stream of water into the Gulf of Thailand.
At the end of the little peninsula is the statue of Admiral Krom Luang Chumphon, considered by many to be the Father of the Royal Thai Navy.
The 28th son of King Chulalongkorn, Admiral Chumphon showed an early interest in nautical matters and spent six years in the United Kingdom studying at the Royal Naval Academy.
On returning home, he modernised the navy and created the professional officer corps. The anniversary of his death, May 19, is the Royal Thai Navy Day.
The statue is life-sized, black in colour and depicts Admiral Chumphon looking out to the sea in a smart naval uniform.
Just like many other statues in Thailand, this representation also serves as a shrine which locals regularly visit to pay obeisance and place garlands as well as other types of commemorative offerings.
Looking at his watch, Santipap signals that it is nearly time to perform his zohor prayers.
We journey to Masjid Asasul Islam in the heart of Songkhla. Upon arrival, it becomes obvious that the mosque architecture bears very close resemblance to that of the Acheen Street Mosque in Penang.
Considered one of the largest and oldest mosques in south Thailand, this 179-year old place of worship is the only one of its kind with a golden dome in Songkhla province.
While admiring the interesting facade, I take time to reflectuponmy friend’s comments about the tourism industry for Muslims in Thailand.
This country, known worldwide as the Land of Smiles, has been experiencing ever-higher tourist arrivals from Muslim countries in the Middle East and Asia, rising from 2.63 million in 2006 to more than triple the number last year.
As a result, the Thai authorities realise the enormous potential in attracting Muslim millennials who have the time, desire and money to travel and see the world while at the same time wish to maintain their religious and cultural responsibilities.
“Shall we go for lunch now? It is already quite late and we better hurry,” says Santipap upon emerging from the mosque. His comment jolts me out of my reverie and I quickly nod in agreement.
Within minutes, we adjourn to Kaafah Restaurant, a small Muslim eating place located justafew doors away from Masjid Asasul Islam.
Operated by two sisters, the outlet serves a variety of authentic southern Thai Muslim cuisine.
Based on their recommendation, we choose the spicy mutton broth, curry spring chicken and an assortment of local raw vegetables.
The thick broth made with a mixture of local spices, fresh basil, tomatoes, mushroom and mutton from a farm in the outskirts of Hat Yai tastes amazing especially when served piping hot.
Coupled with fragrant steam Thai rice, generous portions of tender chicken and surprisingly not-too-spicy curry despite its intense red appearance, it is an unforgettable lunch in this special part of Songkhla’s Phattalung Road.
HALAL MARKET
During the course of the meal, our conversation skews towards the progress made by Thailand, an established and dominant food exporter worldwide, in the halal food industry.
Based on recent reports, there is a growing number of Thai food companies which have switched to halal products to widen their customer base and gain access to markets in Indonesia, Malaysia and the Middle East.
Pointing to the tender piece of mutton on his plate, Santipap explains that the sheep has to be slaughtered according to the conditions under Islamic law before its meat can be considered halal.
At the same time, the butcher must be an adult Muslim who is mentally competent and it is essential that the animal slaughtered is not forbidden by the Quran.
In other food-related sectors, manufacturers aspiring to penetrate the Muslim market have avoided using animal based gelatine to make jelly.
They found an ingenious solution by replacing it with an equivalent substance extracted from seaweed.
Towards the end of our rather protracted meal, I learn of Thailand’s aspiration to become one of the world’s top five halal exporting nations by 2020.
Apparently, plans are already set in place to give this overwhelming Buddhist nation the clear advantage to embrace the halal market in a big way.
Local Muslims, who form five per cent of Thailand’s population, were the first to request for a national halal testing centre to analyse products for banned substances under Islamic law and, the rapid expansion of this facility is nothing short of phenomenal.
Over the past two decades,the number of halal certified products made in Thailand has skyrocketed from 10,000 to 160,000.
Today, the industry is valued in excess of US$6 billion (RM25 billion) annually.
“That number includes the smaller stakeholders like food stall operators in tourist hotspots like the road directly outside the hotel you are staying. Let me show you when we get back,” Santipap elaborates as we prepare to head back to the car.
The streets around Centara Hotel Hat Yai is already alive with makeshift stalls and heavy foot traffic by the time we arrive.
Hovering from stall to stall, Santipap points out the ones selling halal food. By rough count,there seems to be quite a lot.
Impressed with the many diverse choices, we give in to temptation and decide to sample some.
After much deliberation, we settle for some deep-fried freshwater prawns and skewers of beef and chicken grilled over hot coals.
Apart from being very fresh and juicy, the crustaceans are also very cheap.
Apparently, they are found in abundance in the canals crisscrossing the paddy fields.
Farmers, in an effort to ensure sustainability, avoid catching the females during breeding season.
As our meal whittles down to the last few sticks of skewered meat, I thank my friend for taking the time to assume the tour guide role and also introduce me to some of the best halal food options available in Hat Yai and Songkla.
Before Santipap leaves to spend the night in his sister’s house nearby, I extend an invitation for him to visit me. When that time comes, it will be my turn to proudly showcase the best of what Malaysia has to offer!
Pictures by Alan Teh Leam Seng