From indulging in deep-fried fish and satay to mosque-hopping, Kuala Terengganu has everything to make a perfect holiday for Zalina Mohd Som
WE had just met. Only 15 minutes ago. But the
way we are talking, you would think that we’d known each other for some time.
Our table is probably the loudest in the spacious Cahaya Restaurant at Hotel Permai Kuala Terengganu, even though we started off a bit cold and stiff (read: call cards, business talk and all). It was only when hotel marketing communications executive Halim Razak suggested that we try Cahaya Restaurant’s signature breakfast item, nasi dagang, that our conversation took a sharp turn and became more casual and relaxed.
Before long, the food talk moves out of the coffee house to other Terengganu sweetmeat and delicacies.
“You must not leave Kuala Terengganu without tasting these kuih. They can be easily found anywhere in the city,” says Halim.
“Oh yes, I know. I’ve seen huge spreads of traditional kuih at Pasar Payang,” I say.
“Ahh. But Payang is nothing compared to those available at Pasar Batu Enam,” he quickly replies, “You must go there. Must!”
From food, our conversation moves to mosques when he asks me what else I plan to do in Kuala Terengganu.
“Mosque hopping,” I say.
“Mosque hopping?” Halim asks.
“Yes, mosque hopping. A few months ago, my friends and I went on an impromptu day trip to Putrajaya. We ended up
visiting only the mosques and it was quite inspiring. Besides, I haven’t been to any of the mosques here. Not even the famous Masjid Kristal or Masjid Terapung,” I answer.
PLANNING THE ROUTE
Using Permai Hotel Kuala Terengganu as our base, we route out our mission. The plan is to first go the furthest, to Jerteh to look for satay (yes, satay. Apparently,
there’s a small town famed for satay), two mosques and ICT (that is ikan celup tepung or deep-fried fish).
The following day, we would go down to Kuala Ibai to the Masjid Terapung before heading back to the city for Pasar Payang and then driving out to Pasar Batu Enam and the Islamic Heritage Park for Masjid Kristal.
Though not located midway along our route, the three-star hotel is in general strategically located at Jalan Sultan Mahmud, a continuation from the coastal road we’ve been taking from Kemaman. And this location makes the hotel highly visible and accessible.
But location is not the only thing that wins me over. It is the sense of belonging and familiarity extended to us, from the security guard who directed our blue metallic Toyota C-HR to an empty parking space, to the housekeeping staff who came in to set up our extra bed.
“Then, that means you will be out the whole day tomorrow as it’s quite a drive up to Jerteh and back to the hotel. But if you need assistance, just call me. I really wish I could come with you guys and make sure you get your materials,” says Halim.
TO JERTEH AND BACK
After a hearty breakfast at Cahaya Restaurant, we brave the mid-morning traffic in Kuala Terengganu to head northwest to Jerteh. Though it’s already past peak hour, the number of traffic lights and junctions slow down the drive. Nevertheless, the luxurious fixtures in
our Toyota C-HR compensate for the city crawl.
But as soon as we cross the city limit, the drive picks up speed and before we know it, we had already been driving for almost 90 minutes. The map application in my handphone shows our first mosque — Masjid Ulul Albab or famously known as Masjid Kayu — is just another 16km when we drive through a small town that has satay shops lining both sides of the main road.
“Ahh, this is Jabi — the town that is popular for its satay. Are we up for a quick satay brunch?” I ask my friends.
The satay shops here are full-fledged restaurants, not the small stalls normally seen in KL, occupying a corner of a big restaurant. Here, the restaurants offer a variety of satay — chicken, beef and innards with pre-packed nasi lemak, tapai (fermented glutinous rice) and chilled coconut jelly as side dishes.
Happy with our satay, we continue driving to Masjid Kayu. And 25 minutes later, a grand timber construction greets us as we stop at the traffic light to turn into the mosque. Ahh, no wonder Halim suggested this mosque.
The mosque is huge and beautiful. I like its pyramidal roof with singgora roof tiles (I have a soft spot for houses with singgora roof tiles), the intricate wood carvings and its grand staircases. And I love the sense of spaciousness and serenity the whole complex exudes.
From the grand Masjid Kayu, we head out to Kampung Lapan Kotak to look
for Masjid Russia — a name that made
us all excited to start our journey this morning.
Yes, the eight onion-shaped domes of Masjid Lapan Kubah look almost like the world famous St Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, Russia. Hence, the nickname Masjid Russia. Against the bright blue sky, and with the midday breeze, the colourful domes give us a whimsical and dreamy welcome.
Now, we have one more thing left in our list — ikan celup tepung. For this, we have to take the coastal road back to Kuala Terengganu. Though we have been given a couple of shop names, hunger makes us stop at the first shop we see. Still, it is enough to pacify our craving for the delicacy.
TO KUALA IBAI AND BACK
Since today’s route is a bit more relaxed than yesterday’s, we take our time enjoying our breakfast in Cahaya Restaurant. Of course, this means more time for us to enjoy everything (OK, almost everything) on the buffet spread.
Halim advises us to go to Pasar Payang first, just to take in the market’s busy vibes, before heading out to Kuala Ibai for Masjid Terapung.
“And while you’re there at Pasar Payang, why not walk a bit to Masjid Putih. You’ll love this mosque,” he adds.
But Halim forgot to warn us of the crawling traffic at the narrow road leading to the wet market. But thanks to the heavy traffic and our search for a parking space, we don’t have to walk too far to look for the white mosque.
The mosque, which is also known as Abidin Mosque, dazzles under the bright morning sun. Like its name, the mosque is coated in white paint but it gets drizzles of colours from the colourful stained
glass adorning the arches of its tall windows.
The much awaited Pasar Payang is next on the list. The intended traditional kuih stalls aside, we spend most of our holiday money at songket and batik shops on the first floor of the market.
With a few hundred ringgit gone, we leave for Kuala Ibai for Masjid Terapung or Tengku Tengah Zaharah Mosque which is probably the most used landmark to represent Terengganu. Like all the pictures I’ve seen on it, Masjid Terapung does not disappoint at all. Its location — the beautiful Kuala Ibai Lagoon is a beautiful icing on an already beautiful cake.
As the day slowly moves to its end, we turn back north for the last leg of the route — Pasar Batu Enam and Islamic Heritage Park for Masjid Kristal.
Maybe it’s wrong timing, Pasar Batu Enam doesn’t look as lively as Pasar Payang this morning. But the selection of kuih are more extensive than this morning’s.
With few sweet packs in our hands, we’re not really disappointed when we’re advised to give Masjid Kristal a miss as it’s now closed for renovation works, and this means we have more time to enjoy Kuala Terengganu.
WHERE ONE FEELS AT HOME
THOSE driving to Kuala Terengganu from the south via the coastal road will not miss the big white building of Permai Hotel Kuala Terengganu at Jalan Sultan Mahmud.
Set in a traditional Terengganu architectural design, the building houses 220 rooms which includes 112 standard rooms, 90 deluxe, six family rooms, two executive deluxe rooms and 10 executive suites.
Rooms are well-equipped with basic amenities but a facelift will definitely do the rooms some good.
Its only F&B outlet, Cahaya Restaurant, is also a hot favourite for those looking for a steamboat dinner in an elegant hotel setting.However, the outlet is best known for its daily nasi dagang dish that is served for breakfast.
The three-star hotel’s selling point is its wedding packages that have been said to give other hotels in the city a run for their money.
Besides the competitive prices, the pillarless ballroom that has direct access to the driveway is also another selling point.
But personally, what makes Permai Hotel Kuala Terengganu worth checking into are its strategic location and the staff’s warm hospitality.
FAST FACTS
PERMAI HOTEL KUALA TERENGGANU
Jalan Sultan Mahmud
20400 Kuala Terengganu
Terengganu
TEL: 09-622 2122
FAX:09-622 2121
EMAIL:sales@permaihotelkt.com.my
WEBSITE: www.permaihotelkt.com.my
STAY 220 rooms in four categories— superior, deluxe, family, executive deluxe and executive suite. Rooms are spacious and well-equipped.
EAT One outlet—Cahaya Restaurant, an all-day dining restaurant where daily breakfast buffet is served. When night falls, the restaurant is a hot favourite for steamboat dinner.
DO Surprisingly, this three-star hotel has a long list of facilities that can keep guests occupied indoors especially when weather is not good. There is a huge swimming pool and a gymnasium.
GO Pantai Batu Buruk is less than 1km from the hotel.
HIGH Location and warm hospitality.
LOW Err... maybe it’s high time for the hotel to get a facelift.
FIRST IMPRESSION COUNTS
WITH its sleek sculpted body, striking sloping roofline and a bright eye-catching colour, the diamond-themed new Toyota C-HR literally makes you the centre of attention everywhere it takes you.
While its bold appearance puts it far apart from other vehicles in its class, the interior with its alluring diamond-inspired cabin design and luxury fixtures such as leather seats and state-of-the-art accessories leave a lasting impression on everyone sitting in for a drive, even if it’s just a short drive.
The fixture I like the most is the fully automatic dual-zone air-conditioner that allows my co-pilot and myself to have our preferred air temperature. But the one that I need more time adjusting to is the Blind Spot Monitor that alerts the driver of other vehicles located in either of the blind spots by flashing an indicator in the right or left wing mirror.
The drive is smooth, thanks to its high performance engine that is both powerful and fuel efficient, and its continuously variable transmission with seven-speed sequential shiftmatic that guarantees seamless performance and comfort.
Then, there are three driving modes — Eco, Normal and Sport. Eco mode maximises fuel efficiency by optimising air-conditioner cooling and reduces throttle response, Normal mode offers the best balance between fuel efficiency and performance and Sport gives a more exciting drive.
The diamond-themed new Toyota C-HR Engine:
4-cylinder, In-line, 16-Valve DOHC with Dual VVT-i
Maximum output: 140PS/6,400 RPM
Maximum torque: 171NM/4,000 RPM
Drive Mode: Eco/Normal/Sport
Safety: Blind Spot Monitor, seven airbags, Hill-start Assist Control, front and rear parking sensor, tyre pressure monitoring system
Book a test drive at www.toyota.com.my
PICTURES BY ZALINA MOHD SOM