AGAINST the backdrop of a jet black canvas, the KL Tower looms majestically, its facade illuminating the night sky with its interchanging hues of red, lilac and blue. Nearer to terra firma, the water in the rooftop pool of Hotel Stripes, KL, glimmer magically. The air is cool thanks to the recently subsided evening downpour.
And lounging in a row on oversized pool chairs, looking every inch the wannabe tai-tais are my friends and I, here for the night to celebrate my best friend’s birthday and indulge in some female bonding.
“Dump him! What a useless guy!” a decidedly-irate member of the group exclaims, her aversion to said guy coming through loud and clear. And aside from the poor soul seeking counsel, two other heads bob in unison, concurring with the conclusive dismissal.
The sounds of a noisy splash followed by carefree giggling (someone either fell in or decided to have a night swim) interrupt our men-bashing session long enough to ensure that we never return to the topic of the “lesser sex” anymore for the night.
Contented silence finally reigns as everyone’s ‘battery’ begins to drain. It’s been a long Friday for all. Only the sounds of clinking wine glasses and gentle murmurs from punters at the bar behind us can be heard.
Leaning back against the comfortable cushion, enjoying the gentle caress of the night breeze, I stare at the Tower ahead of me, transfixed, as my mind replays the events of earlier in the day when I wheeled my trolley bag across the threshold of this YTL-owned boutique hotel. It’s a member of the global Marriott-linked Autograph Collection Hotels brand, an evolving ensemble of strikingly independent hotels located in culturally-vibrant neighbourhoods. The other YTL property in the Collection is the regal Majestic Hotel KL.
A FRENCH AFFAIR
“Intan! Hi!” The sound of my name being called out makes me turn in surprise. Pen suspended temporarily from signing the check-in form, I find a familiar face sweeping into my periphery.
It’s Alvin Khoo, my old friend from the Majestic. What on earth is he doing here, the thought crosses my mind as I offer him my hand for an enthusiastic handshake.
“I’m the hotel manager here la,” he responds to my silent question, before summoning the concierge to take care of my bags and sweeping my friend and I into the folds of an elegant French-style restaurant just by the lobby area. The sign outside reads Brasserie 25.
“Come, it’s time for Le Gouter!” he says, chuckling. Le Gouter, as I duly discover, is French-style afternoon tea. And Brasserie 25, with its charming red brick arcades, mid-century copper sputnik chandeliers hanging over almost every table, and dark wooden floors is the perfect venue for tea-time tete-a-tete with a twist.
The restaurant, says Khoo, as we settle into our seats in anticipation of the spread to come, draws inspiration from Stripes’ sister hotel, Muse St Tropez. My eyes widen in pleasure as two wait staff approach our table with a silver tray laden with some of the most exquisite bite-sized sweet snacks — tarts, madeleines, and petit-four-style cakes.
“This is our all-you-can-eat spread,” whispers Khoo, eyes sparkling. Next to me, my best friend and a fellow dessert fiend is already having palpitations, her eyes gleefully sweeping the delights on the tray.
French and Malaysian sensibilities are merged in the savoury selection that ensues, which includes curry puffs, sambal topped fries and duck confit wontons.
My cappuccino in my hand, my friend, her cup of tea, we settle down to enjoy this popular feature of the hotel’s many exquisite offerings, as Khoo regales us with the Stripes story.
THE STORY
The hotel, with its impressive albeit eclectic facade that juxtaposes the original white facade on the lower half with more industrial bricks for the top, is located in Jalan Kamunting, an urban district in downtown KL. According to Khoo, during the colonial era, it was a main settlement for tin mining. The industry boomed in the mid-19th century, giving life to the development of the surrounding neighbourhood.
However, at the end of the 19th century, most of the neighbourhood was destroyed, razed by fire and flood as many of the houses here were constructed of wood and thatch.
So, to avoid this tragedy from occurring again, the British colonial administration stipulated that the buildings were to be replaced with far less flammable materials, namely bricks and tiles, adds Khoo.
This in turn resulted in the area’s distinct eclectic shophouse architecture. The five foot ways or pedestrian walkways that make up the landscape here are considered rather unique to the region.
Today, the neighbourhood of Jalan Kamunting includes the reincarnation of The Row, formally known as the Asian Heritage Row, which comprises 22 1940s shophouses featuring restaurants, cafes, art galleries and a smattering of creative businesses.
The dynamic mix of old and new lends that vibrant atmosphere to the locale, something that essentially defines Stripes too, says Khoo, before proudly sharing that the hotel’s tagline is, “Every Stripe Tells a Story”.
“Do you know that this building (the hotel) was originally Bangunan Yeoh Tiong Lay where Datuk Mark Yeoh, YTL’s executive director, used to have his office?” poses Khoo excitedly, before proceeding to share that when the family decided to build a hotel here, they purchased some of the adjoining lots of this row of shophouses.
“If you want to have an idea of what the original building looked like, just go and see the houses next door. The owners didn’t want to sell,” says Khoo, as I nod in recollection of having seen them — one with a green facade, the other, red, which I’d assumed to be abandoned.
THE COMMUNITY
As I try to imagine what this neighbourhood must have been like back in the days, nibbling daintily on a madeleine, Khoo continues with his enthusiastic story about the area.
Strategically located, the hotel, he says, is a great starting point from where one can begin to explore our capital’s nostalgic past and heady present. There are plenty of family-owned businesses here that have been around for decades and survived the changing landscape.
I know that Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, as Jalan TAR is fondly known, is nearby. A textile haven, this bustling stretch of road is flanked by pre-war buildings.
Many of the shop lots, I recall, continue to have their distinctive facades. Tomorrow being Saturday, the road will be closed to traffic and converted into a vibrant pedestrian night market populated by hawkers and vendors, and of course, insatiable shoppers.
Meanwhile, Yut Kee, one of KL’s busiest coffee shops since 1928 and famous for its Hainanese-Western dishes, is located mere steps away from the hotel. Run by Yut Kee’s grandson now, it continues to do roaring business with its hawker-stall fare and authentic local cuisine.
“You must go and check out the tailor place further up the road. That’s a great story too,” suggests Khoo, adding that the owner is a 70-year-old whose pride of possession is his very expensive pair of scissors. It’s a small business which has been around for a long time and you can see those old Singer machines still in use. In fact, there’s so much to explore around here.”
His eyes dancing, Khoo reels off: “There’s a popular Mee Rebus and Rojak place in the alley next to Yut Kee, an uncle that does brisk business selling tau fu fah, and you MUST have your lunch at Capital cafe where you can really experience true muhibbah spirit. Within one cafe is a nasi padang “stall”, chicken rice “stall” and rojak cart. Don’t worry, we can get the hotel car to send you there tomorrow if you like!”
My tummy fully satiated and all “gouter-ed” out, I can’t wait to get to my room for a quick recharge. “Don’t forget to come down here again for dinner ya? The a la carte evening menu really is worth checking out,” recommends Khoo, as my friend and I take our leave, waddling like bloated penguins towards the lift.
Recalling the picture of the studio room from the hotel’s website, I’ve no doubt that it’s going to be a lovely space to unwind for the night.
With its urban chic design concept, thoughtful conveniences catering to the modern day traveller (yes, espresso machine, complimentary minibar and free WiFi!), and a huge, plush bed, what more can one ask for?
Oh, I must remember to check out the rooftop pool tonight. I heard it’s got an awesome view of the KL Tower and would be just the venue for some girly bonding.
Details at www.stripeskl.com
Hotel Stripes KL, 25, Jalan Kamunting, Chow Kit, KL