Nadia Badarudin looks at patriotic motifs championed by homegrown labels
IT was Monday night, April 14, 1986. Kuala Lumpur was temporarily frozen when Malaysia’s singing icon, the late Datuk Sudirman Arshad held a street concert on Chow Kit Road. Those who made up the 100,000 crowd and jam-packed Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman on that day would not easily forget Sudirman’s mesmerising performance.
Many, I am certain, also remember what he wore that day — a shirt and songkok emblazoned with the Jalur Gemilang as he crooned patriotic numbers, including the hit song, Tanggal 31.
Some may have disapproved but the singing lawyer chose to express his patriotism in a creative way, and his style was cool and trendy.
Twenty-eight years on, a group of bold and adventurous youth share Sudirman’s creativity in showing their love for the country. These young entrepreneurs choose fashion to express their patriotism and also promote Malaysia’s rich cultures and identity.
Staying true to the Made-In-Malaysia ideals, these homegrown brands have attracted many fans, including celebrities and dignitaries.
Here are several local brands that are making waves in the fashion scene for their Malaysiana designs.
KOTAK HITAM
Hazriansyah Kamalsha and Ahmad Mustaqim Rodzuan met on Facebook and formed Kotak Hitam Art Studio in 2011. The entrepreneurs are known for re-introducing the tanjak (the traditional Malay headdress) as a daily wear (replacing caps and hats) to pair with T-shirts and jeans.
They believe that their handmade tanjak urban (as they called it) is their way to revive traditional wear, making it more fashionable and appealing to the young. Unlike the traditional piece which must be worn according to certain protocols, tanjak urban is much simpler in terms of design and practicality. It is completed with a velcro strap that makes it more practical and adjustable for the wearer.
The modern headgear is made from denim, corduroy, khaki and materials printed with army or firefighter camouflage pattern, reflecting a trendier touch.
27 LEGACY TIE DYE
The label 27 Legacy Tie Dye has been the talk of the town for its creative and unique patriotism-inspired tie-dye T-shirts. The label was created by college mates Mohamed Hidzir Azizan, Rashdan Nasarruddin, Mohamed Hafiiz Mohamed Yusoff, Faiz Hakim Hassan and Mohd Rezuan Rahmat who share a passion for batik-making and T-shirt printing.
The label’s Flag series — designs depicting the Jalur Gemilang — were snapped up within minutes as soon as it was launched on Facebook and Instagram to mark Merdeka Day last year. Several items inspired by the State flags of Johor, Selangor, Perak, Sarawak and Kelantan are favourites among local football fans. The colourful designs and the fact that each tie-dye piece is one-of-a-kind have made the products highly sought-after.
PESTLE AND MORTAR
Heliconia, durian, rambutan, mangosteen, deer and satay — these are among some of the interesting motifs printed on the products by Pestle & Mortar, a streetwear brand famous among Kuala Lumpur’s urban youth.
Founded in 2010 by Hugh Koh and friends, the brand features attire that reflect our cultural melting pot of styles. The designs are meant to trigger conversation, as well as to encourage customers to explore and appreciate the country.
Apart from the collections featuring flora and fauna motifs, there are the T-shirts printed with the names of icons of the local entertainment industry, including actress-singer Saloma and the band Alleycats, names of streets and the city (Kuala Lumpur in reverse). which are among the brand’s hot-selling items.
TARIK JEANS
Nothing beats the uniqueness of quality denims labelled as Super Skinny Din Kopi O or Slim Ramlee Kopi O, with the logo of a mamak showing the art of making the tarik.
That’s Tarik Jeans to the uninitiated, a home-brewed streetwear brand which has been carving a niche in the local fashion scene since 2009.
The label was the brainchild of musician Afiq Iskandar Zainal Ariffin (who plays guitar for Oh Chentaku and fronts Red Ruby Avengers) and his college mate Teo Choong Ching.
Besides denim, the brand is also known for its varsity jacket emblazoned on the back, with “Who’s Your Mamak?”
The simple and catchy Who’s Your Mamak? concept and design philosophy are inspired by the underlying culture of Malaysians of all races who frequent mamak stalls tosocialise.
DUCK
Inspired by beautiful city skylines, local label dUCk (founded by entrepreneur Vivy Yusof) recently rolled out a collection of skyline print scarves titled CityScapes.
The first of its six series features Kuala Lumpur’s skyline in raw black and white sketch along with its signature silver dUCk charm and dUCk logo discreetly interspersed within the design. The collection is made from high-quality satin silk.
INVATION
Invation is a newcomer to the local fashion scene. However, the brand has already a growing fanbase, especially among customers who like clean-cut designs. Invation’s bestseller is a simple T-shirt inspired by the Jalur Gemilang, emblazoned with the 14-point star and the crescent, both in gold colours.
EMPAYAR KUKUBESI
Diehard fans and new customers are likely to make a beeline for its products every time Empayar Kukubesi launches its latest collection at any independent clothing brands festival.
Founded in 2011 by Pahang born graphic designer and entrepreneur Muhammad Fazli Ab Latif, the brand is best remembered for T-shirts portraying Malaysian heroes and icons including former prime minister Tun Mahathir Mohamad and the late Lieutenant Adnan Saidi. The brand is also famous for its fresh pop art designs inspired by local plants such as tapioca shoots and each State’s different cultures and lifestyles.
ABSTRAX JINGGA
Abstrax Jingga was formed in 2008 by artists Fahmi Fabilah and Dr Faiz I. Anuar aimed at offering simple yet exclusive, affordable and functional streetwear. Abstrax Jingga is among the earliest independent clothing brands that pride themselves in producing items that reflect Malaysia’s lifestyle and history.
Its Propaganda and Malaya Heroes T-shirts that feature Malaysian icons such as former prime ministers Tunku Abdul Rahman and Tun Mahathir Mohamad, as well as politicians like Datuk Nik Abdul Aziz Nik Mat, are must-have items among fans and supporters of homegrown brands.
REIGN IN BLACK
Reign In Black’s style is Malaysia’s answer to American label Ed Hardy. The brand’s T-shirts and work shirts are known for its bold and masculine designs inspired by local history and folklore such as Hikayat Merong Mahawangsa and Raja Bersiong.
The brand’s designs, like the Biar Putih Tulang Jangan Putih Mata series, stand out because each design has a story to tell, and full of impressive details with some Jawi script added. The label’s Harimau Malaya work shirt is also among its bestsellers.
P-GADGET
The smartphone casing is now a fashion accessory that reflects the phone owner’s personality. Ipoh-born label P-Gadget is barely two years in the market, but its fresh, custom-made casings have attracted ardent followers.
P-Gadget recently launched a series of casings inspired by Malaysians’ passion for football as well as local football associations and fanclubs. The products feature original cartoon designs reflecting each State’s football mascot and motto.